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Diesel Block

craked

By craked,
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proengines
proengines

I've got an RD28 block here at the moment. The rear oil drain on one side is missing, it's slightly different timing wise at the front, set up with a high mount tensioner from the factory. The head bo

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Bliksem Veteran

Bliksem

Posted
Posted (edited)

you mean an RD28?

I think it has been done. From what ive read the RD28 has a very long stroke for its bore size, so they arent the most free revving motors. In the end not really worth the expense and effort when you could jus stroke a 26, or build a 3.0L

Edited by MintR33
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Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

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I believe the stroke is the same asa the rb30. It has been done by someone on here. From what i gather its a massive job with head bolts in different spots, water and oil galleries not lining up etc. Would be a good start if you want to make over 1200hp, otherwise its not really needed. I would speak to rips, as im sure they have looked down this alley to see if its worthwhile.

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STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

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Yes, but getting it in the bay is another thing

you would be suprised, i dummied one into the drift car for shits and giggles. heavy though :P

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FineLine Grand Master

FineLine

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you would be suprised, i dummied one into the drift car for shits and giggles. heavy though :)

I have one in my patrol and boy I spend some time eyeing it off with a view to something evil. :)

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proengines Rising Star

proengines

Posted
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I've got an RD28 block here at the moment. The rear oil drain on one side is missing, it's slightly different timing wise at the front, set up with a high mount tensioner from the factory. The head bolt holes are in the same spots though and main tunnel sizes are the same as an RB30, it also has piston oil squirters and weighs a heap more than an RB30. It's very do-able and has been done in the past.

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proengines Rising Star

proengines

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how does the main cap/girdle setup look in them in comparison to the rb30? Pretty well the same? Oil pick up position?

Much the same as a 30, I can snap some photos if you like, I'm doing a little dummying up this w/e. Let me know what you want to see.

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GT-RZ Community Regular

GT-RZ

Posted
Posted (edited)

Is it really worth all the messing around?

i can see the interest of seeing if it matches up but really when an Rb30 block is ready to go i fail to see the point. looking at R.I.P.S engines and plenty of other Rb's i think the Rb30 is plenty enough capable of big HP.

How much HP are you chasing? I can't see why people seem to think this block will be so much stronger? after all the bores are in the same place and it fits the same head so there is not heaps of extra meat....

Edited by GT-RZ
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Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

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Is it really worth all the messing around?

i can see the interest of seeing if it matches up but really when an Rb30 block is ready to go i fail to see the point. looking at R.I.P.S engines and plenty of other Rb's i think the Rb30 is plenty enough capable of big HP.

How much HP are you chasing?

When you are building a $250,000 Pro FX drag car it matters. You have to compete against rotors and 2J's making obscene amounts of power.

To run 60psi of boost and not change the engine after 3 runs (this is what Titan Motorsport in the states do with their 2J engines) needs a very rigid thick walled block...RD28 is the only option for the Nissan runners....for now anyway...something else is being looked at too. If it works it will be big.

Edited by DiRTgarage
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r33_racer Grand Master

r33_racer

Posted
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Actually proengines, the whole block if you dont mind....im interested in what they look like in comparison. Having never seen one before. A picture of every face if thats not asking too much mate?

Im sure alot of others would be curious to see what they look like too for comparative sake.

I believe the bores are considerably thicker in these motors as others have already mentioned.

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GT-RZ Community Regular

GT-RZ

Posted
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The bores could only be thicker on the sides of the block was my point as obviously the material between bores is constant with that of the other RB's (once bored out to 86mm)

but realistically i get what your saying as sleeving can take care of most the direct stresses in BIG HP within the cylinder and the next big problem would be twisting the block. which 40kg extra material around the sides may well fix. i have never seen one. although very interested now as 40kg is allot of extra cast iron, the block must look very fat indeed. how much does an RB30 block weigh? not too much i assume as they are not too hard to move around by hand.

my point was simply towards people in here who are thinking of doing this conversion and probably intending to run no where near 1000hp. For the serious drag monsters this could be an avenue worth the while but for streeters and circuit work i don't see the point. unless you have lots of extra time on your hands and want something to do!

lets just get a 2jz and stamp nissan on the top :laugh:

Or even better someone just machine up a fresh block and head from a solid billet block.

would be nice to get some images of the rd28 and also some measurements. because that's the only way to prove it is stronger.

Edited by GT-RZ
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bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

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Posted
To run 60psi of boost and not change the engine after 3 runs (this is what Titan Motorsport in the states do with their 2J engines) needs a very rigid thick walled block...RD28 is the only option for the Nissan runners....for now anyway...something else is being looked at too. If it works it will be big.

tb48 with rb26 head...?

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