Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Engine is an RB25DET. Relatively stock bar an exhaust and cold air intake. Just bought some NGK Iridiums (BKR5EIX-11) for my 100k service and was wondering whether I should just whack them in (and by that I actually mean very carefully) with their standard 1.1mm gap or see if anyone has recommendations on gap size. I see alot of 0.8mm gap fans out there. Was this to resolve misfire issues or is this just a good recommended gap? I'm no spark plug expert so I'm pretty clueless when it comes to gap size and heat etc. I just know that Iridiums have served me well in the past. I do have an occasional misfire high up in the rev range (talking 6500rpm), but I have not removed the existing plugs to see what gap size they have.

Also, while on the topic, which igniter configuration did the R33 1.5 come with? Series 1 or series 2? I could do the non-lazy thing and check under my bonnet but the keyboard is easier. I plan on forking out for some aftermarket coil packs but I'm unsure of what I need to specify when ordering.

Thanks guys.

Edited by Birds
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276024-spark-plug-gaps/
Share on other sites

stick with the wider gap if you've got no missfire issues ... thing is, as soon as you put more than stock boost in it, you'll probably run into missfire so .8mm to 1mm gap is good there (for me .8 was no good ..would misfire constantly at idle and low revs)

Either way, the plugs you got are way too hot .. if you check the NGK catalogue they recommend heat range 6 as stock replacements. So if you've got 20-30kw more than stock I'd go for heatrange 7, but 6 would do too. Either way, 5 is way too hot. HTH.

Edited by Delta Force
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276024-spark-plug-gaps/#findComment-4673791
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice, I'll put them in and see how I go I guess. Can always remove and re-gap.

Just checked the NGK catalogue and it recommends BKR5EIX-11. I do have plans to modify my engine, so will change to a colder range down the track but for now I think it should be safe. NGK will hear about it if my pistons start shredding away!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276024-spark-plug-gaps/#findComment-4673892
Share on other sites

Either way, the plugs you got are way too hot .. if you check the NGK catalogue they recommend heat range 6 as stock replacements.
NGK website (and I'm pretty sure the cattle-dog) says 5s for a (stock) RB25DET.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276024-spark-plug-gaps/#findComment-4674126
Share on other sites

Depends on condition of your electrical side of car. Do you have a health battery? Coilpacks? etc

Alot of people drop sparkplug gap to 0.8mm once they push more than standard power because they begin to misfire. I used to run 0.8mm when I had dodgy coilpacks.

After replacing battery and coilpacks I put them back to the standard 1.1mm supplied.

Car is pushing 210kw atw and no misfiring.

However as you said that you have a misfire already at 6500rpm, Id probably try and go a bit under 1.1mm.

Perhaps buy a set of copper spark plugs and give them a shot at different gap sizes.

Coppers are much better in conductivity which make them better than iridiums, only issue is that they need replacing every 10k

Let us know how it goes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276024-spark-plug-gaps/#findComment-4676518
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...