Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You wouldn't be the first person to start a business from a small project like this. I always like to see people having a go. Good on you. Let us know the end weight and photos of vent cutout then all painted up.

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey buddy. im looking to replace my bonnet too. i cant decide between a carbon vented, or a fg vented item.

how stable is the fg item at highway speed?

have u had any problems? easily cracked etc?

Both items are fine, they are just as good as factory items if made properly. Never seem any problems with them cracking or anything, only problem i've seen is with carbon fibre bonnets when the clearcoat/gelcoat fades and turns a whitey colour and sometimes flakes off, usually caused by old age spending too many hours under the sun or just lack of care and it is purely cosmetic.

if you do add any more glass in, do it from underneath, for 2 reasons. 1: saves you having to smooth it out again, and 2: the more you add to the top, the further it is going to sit out from the lights and be higher than the 1/4 panels

post-26632-1247477258_thumb.jpg

there is no carbon fibre bonnet on the market that is as strong as the original metal.

you will find they are quite flexible and thats why you need bonnet pins to stop them lifting on the edges in the wind. They crack when they bend too much, often around the top of the radiator area. If it is pinned down properly it wont flex and will last forever.

fibreglass and carbon will crack or tear in a crash too, unlike a metal bonnet which will fold and bend.

don't go thinking they are stronger is all im saying lol.

here are some pics of what track speeds do to bonnets

post-26632-1247477014_thumb.jpg

post-26632-1247477026_thumb.jpg

i think it isn't so much because it is lighter, but because it is more flexible. steel is rigid so it can just have a single latch in the centre, but fibreglass is more flexible and at speed once a corner started to lift it would just keep on lifting, because the higher it lifts the more force it gets lifting it. if you have ever paid attention on the v8 supercars when they lift the bonnet, it flexes all over the place because it has no frame underneath it.

there are photos of mine and other cars with only two bonnet pins going down the straight at oran park at the sau day with the leading edge of the bonnets a good 10cm above the headlights in the middle. we now use more pins lol.

yes it is because they are flexible, not because they are light. take the frame off a metal bonnet and it will do the same thing. fg or cf will always be more flexible for the same amount of material

how do the r34 v-spec2 gtr's go with their carbon bonnets?

another way to help with flexing and lifting at speed would be to make it with piece of aluminium running along the front where you are going to pin it. bit late to put it it now, but if you were doing it again you could make the front thin, put the aluminium in then make it thicker so that the aluminium is closer to the top. if you had it closer to the bottom layers then there is more chance of the glass just tearing around it, but having it in the upper layers means the force is pushing the glass into it, rather than lifting it away from it if it's lower in the layers.

another thing that would help is spray bog, its perfect for what your doin because theres no highs or lows that an applicator can leave.. just block block block then prime

how much in glass and matting has it set you back? conpared to buying one ?

I dont think there are many diy carbon bonnets in oz.

the flexibility comes from it not being as strong as thick or strong as steel. Most glass or carbon bonnets will flex if you let them. put pins in and it cant flex

awesome thread. so is this going to be a street or race only bonnet. would like to know costs.

legally in vic im quite sure you have to have a metal bonnet, don't think fibreglass is allowed however unlikely they would notice.

Yeah will be for a road car, laws arent too harsh over here. Costs were about $50 for 5L of resin, $5 per square metre of matt, so about $15 - $20 worth, and $30 for body filler so it's been pretty cheap so far.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...