Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

this is a beautifullllllll set up i will also try it on my rb20, i was thinking of the conversion for some time now :)

Thanks for the props, I can't believe my pics have made it around the world that quick :)

Heres how it looks as of now, although I am still waiting to finish the wiring before I fire it up.

pandaexpress3013.jpg

pandaexpress3010.jpg

And here's a link to my build thread that covers every step of the way to do it yourself:

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/4236...b26-itbs-thread

I'll keep everyone updated on the final results.

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

sci2000tech, that's similar to what I have done minus the ITB's as I'm going Q45 t/b.

We found the RB20 runners and the GTR plenum runners didn't line up too well so #1 and #6 were were heated and bent slightly and then a happy medium was found. The good thing was the GTR runner are significantly smaller than the RB20 runners which helped when lining them up.

gday mate, can you show me what you have done for the dump pipe flange on the K27, I have the same turbo and cant find a flange for it.

P.s Sorry to hi jack the thread back OT now :laugh:

I was going to PM you my response, but my post count is too low. I'll make a Intro and build thread later.

Anyway,

I spent a good ammount of time searching for a flange as well, impossible to find :laugh:

I ended up taking my turbo to a waterjet place and they cut a flange to match the exhaust housing. It would have been even easier if I had a gasket. If I remember correct, it cost me $35USD. If you want pics, just let me know. I still have the downpipe off.

On a side note:

I was told it is a k26 frame. Its a K3t 3070 MGA, the same that comes in the blitz/sard turbo kit. I have had absolutly no luck finding anything about this turbo, if you know much about these turbo's any info you could share would be appreciated :laugh:

sci2000tech, that's similar to what I have done minus the ITB's as I'm going Q45 t/b.

We found the RB20 runners and the GTR plenum runners didn't line up too well so #1 and #6 were were heated and bent slightly and then a happy medium was found. The good thing was the GTR runner are significantly smaller than the RB20 runners which helped when lining them up.

yup, we found out the same thing

I wish I had thought to heat and bend them, that makes sense. Instead, we ported them.

Here's a close up of the runner that lined up the worst, after porting.

IMG_1061.jpg

I'm not sure how far back you cut yours, but we thought this length lined up the best. And in theory, longer runners should work better with the gtr itb's, or so I'm told at least.

Another cool thing about going this route; If the ITB'S don't work out, I can just take them off and get shorter studs to mount the pletnum directly to the runners.

I'll make a thread here on how we built the manifold in a bit.

Edited by sci2000tech

We cut them back a little bit shorter than yours, a 25 plenum would have been a bit nicer to line up but the 20 plenum has the runners (particularly the last two) come out at funny angles. I haven't bothered to clean it up too much yet as the overlap is on the plenum side so there's no real restriction in the runners.

When I eventually decide to go bigger cams and do some headwork, I'll make the inside of the runners all nice like and match the ports to the head.

Only thing left to figure out is what angle to bring the water outlet out on.. gotta wait for my throttlebody to arrive though so I can make sure I miss it :laugh:

sci2000tech I would love to see a graph of the manifold vs the previous setup. If it improves response (which from all accounts I have heard it will not, however I am hoping it will) I may very well go down the same route.

Update on my situation.

Crack 1: Looks to be caused by the after market fuel rail being an extremely tight fit and causing a crack from vibrations or something else. This is now sorted, and I will be putting some spacer to allow the fit of the rail \ injectors to sit nicer. (more like factory)

Crack 2. The surface of the plenum against the head was not square, however it did not leak due to me using a gizzmo gasket. However, the flex on the manifold caused a crack near the ends of the manifold near #6. This crack has grown too far and some weld needs to be put in the injector hole.

I will then have to machine this so the injector \ o ring seals, then machine the surface of the manifold that sits against the head square.

Should be happy days after that...I hope :pirate:

We cut them back a little bit shorter than yours, a 25 plenum would have been a bit nicer to line up but the 20 plenum has the runners (particularly the last two) come out at funny angles. I haven't bothered to clean it up too much yet as the overlap is on the plenum side so there's no real restriction in the runners.

When I eventually decide to go bigger cams and do some headwork, I'll make the inside of the runners all nice like and match the ports to the head.

Only thing left to figure out is what angle to bring the water outlet out on.. gotta wait for my throttlebody to arrive though so I can make sure I miss it :)

The water outlet was a pain to get to fit on my setup, I can only imaging what's going to have to be done with where your pletnum sits :laugh:

Ahhhh...but yours isn't in an S chassis, huh. You probably have a bit more room to play between your radiator and pletnum. You can see how close mine is. There's about 1/2" inbetween my radiator and power steering pulley.

sci2000tech I would love to see a graph of the manifold vs the previous setup. If it improves response (which from all accounts I have heard it will not, however I am hoping it will) I may very well go down the same route.

Unfortunently, the previous setup was a completely stock engine :laugh: So with the new turbo/manifold/intercooler/etc... it will be impossible to tell exactly what gains are attributed to the ITB's.

Being in the U.S., I can't just find someone with a stock RB20(or any RB for that matter) to swap it out on and do a comparison on a dyno either :laugh::(

My only other option is to grab the intake off my spare engine and throw that on. But new I/C piping + dyno time = $$$.

I'll still get a dyno graph of the current setup. But unless it completely kills my powerband and forces me to switch back to a stock manifold or weld a TB to the front of this setup, I don't think I'll spend the money to see a "before" graph. If that makes any sence.

I too have read that on the RB20, it actually hinders response. But I'm the type that just has to find out for myself :laugh:

So the welds are done (pics coming when I pick the manifold up.) I just need the face that sits against the head machined as it is slightly warped.

Does anyone know \ reccomend a workshop to do this in SE Melbourne? I understand its a bit tricky to actually hold the manifold to machine the surface, but does anyone have any suggestions?

The water outlet was a pain to get to fit on my setup, I can only imaging what's going to have to be done with where your pletnum sits :)

Ahhhh...but yours isn't in an S chassis, huh. You probably have a bit more room to play between your radiator and pletnum. You can see how close mine is. There's about 1/2" inbetween my radiator and power steering pulley.

It's in an R32 GTSt on an RB30DET, I've got more room to the radiator but I'm also putting a Q45 t/b on the front of the plenum so I'm quite pushed for room.. when the t/b actually gets here I'll know exactly how bad it's going to be! Might have to put another bend in and mount the t/b vertically..

Will that plenum arrangement clear everything in a right hand drive car? I have my doubts so be careful with the length you cut back the std plenum/flange

My setup clears everything (thought I might need to use a 33gtst clutch master cyl. but everything fits with the 32 one) but I measured and made sure of how much to cut back from each side.

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

top work mate, this looks so much better than the giagantic smooth and shiny ones.. they dont suit the rb20 at all.. this look nice and factory almost.

cant wait to do something like this on mine.

Did any thought go into the runner length or did you just have it welded on wherever?

Only as far as making sure it fits in the engine bay. If mine was going on an RB20 I would be more concerned.

I've been trying to find out what people do about the Idle Air Control Valve/chamber and Auxilary Air Valve (cold idle up bypass) with these RB20 or RB25 to GTR throttles conversions .

I gather that with the GTR ones under the manifold they foul on the RB25DET's oil cooler somehow , the 26 oil cooler must be different .

Cheers A .

I've been trying to find out what people do about the Idle Air Control Valve/chamber and Auxilary Air Valve (cold idle up bypass) with these RB20 or RB25 to GTR throttles conversions .

I gather that with the GTR ones under the manifold they foul on the RB25DET's oil cooler somehow , the 26 oil cooler must be different .

Cheers A .

depends on the ecu, any good map based ecu doesnt need it, it just needs more time tuning. Im pretty sure jarrods (wheezy) does not run one... i cant remmeber its been awhile since we tuned it.

Im pretty the manifold is all good now too as had to get it cnc'd flat for him and tune it for the classic skylines event last month.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
×
×
  • Create New...