Jump to content
SAU Community

Removing Harmonic Balancer On R32 Gtr

phat25t

By phat25t,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

phat25t Community Regular

phat25t

Posted
Posted

Hey I'm trying to remove the nut in the centre of the harmonic balancer with a power bar, I just want to make sure it needs to be turned anticlockwise because I know I've removed one on another car that was backwards(it needed to be turned clockwise to loosen.

Cheers ,

Steve

32_Dave Mentor

32_Dave

Posted
Posted
yep its a normal bolt. letft loosy, righty tighty.

could be vft though

they are VVVFFT (very very very f**king f**king tight) if its never been out before.

believe its 140-150 ft pound 14-15kg

get a steel pipe on the end of your breaker bar. if u got a flywheel lock use that or if your ghetto put a bolt in the block where the box would bolt up and pivot off it using a screwdriver slotted into the flywheel teeth. both methods work :D

cheers

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted
they are VVVFFT (very very very f**king f**king tight) if its never been out before.

believe its 140-150 ft pound ....

even worse on gtr, 400lb/ft. for some reason gtst is only 150 odd.

br3ndan Mentor

br3ndan

Posted
Posted

A good way of doing this is...

position ur breaker bar so its leaning on the ground put the key in the iginition and turn her over. The car will un do it for you.

Only attempt this if you are confident...im sure they didnt need to be said tho.

turbo_brian Community Regular

turbo_brian

Posted
Posted (edited)

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Content/Si...00000006981.jpg

Use the right tools and to it properly.

You can get a hammer-tool and socket, place socket onto bolt, hammer-tool into socket (dont know it's actualy name or I would have put up a picture, but it's got an arm about 10cm long, then another arm from this about 80cm long, you hammer the longer arm and it shock-loads the bolt right at the thread).

Or you use a tool like in the picture above, where it holds the harmonic balancer from turning, and the 2nd arm is used against the harmonic balancer's locked pressure to turn the nut (uses SFA energy to crack the thread).

Reason you dont place the car in gear, or use a fly-wheel lock is because your then placing all your force down the length of the crank shaft, and if your hitting the bolt, using a rattle gun, etc your placing shock-loads onto the crank and potentially damaging the crank.

Reason you dont use the starter is for the same reason.

Dont get me wrong, these methods work, but they place un-due force on the internals of the motor, and 'could' cause potential failure points in the future.

EDIT: Almost forgot, USE FLAT FACED SOCKETS!!!! Dont use the milling grip sockets, you will almost certainly round the nut, and then be stuffed!!!

Edited by turbo_brian
  • 1 month later...
Jmaac Proficient

Jmaac

Posted
Posted (edited)

You can remove the starter and use a screwdriver to lock the flywheel before using a breaker bar. I still couldnt loosen it first time, but you may be able to. This worked after I loosed everything up using the method below.

I ended up using an electric impact gun. It removed it easily and effortlessley. I tried the first procedure for 2 days and started to go mental over the one bolt holding me up. Use a proper impact bit and it'll absorb all those nasty 'shock loads' (crank can handle it no probs anyway).

Use a proper fitting socket (full hex/flat face) as mentioned

Also as above bush mechanic style, you can use a breaker bar on the bolt and brace it against up against the chassis and crank the motor over with your starter. I would recommend against this though as the starter will give way before the crank

Edited by Jmaac
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted
I bought a breaker bar and smashed it as hard as I could but no go, not sure what to do with it now?

you get a longer breaker bar!

easiest way to do that is put a long jack handle / pole of some sort over the breaker bar. Once you get to 1-2m long you will have enough leverage to undo it

Rowdyr32 Mentor

Rowdyr32

Posted
Posted
you get a longer breaker bar!

easiest way to do that is put a long jack handle / pole of some sort over the breaker bar. Once you get to 1-2m long you will have enough leverage to undo it

I've had a couple where I have had to put a bicycle innner tube around the balancer and then a chain from the balancer to the front tow hook and then wrap a racket strap bloody tight around the inner tube and chain. This is the only way I could get two engines bolts to crack with a 3/4 drive breaker bar and a pole with two people.

There was to much flex in the drive train and couldn't get it to stay still any other way. It would just turn with the purchase. Some are bloody tight!

  • 1 month later...
phat25t Community Regular

phat25t

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey guys,

I still have not been able to get this off due to time and this thing being f%$king tight. How did you guys fit an impact gun in the engine bay?? I have the radiator out but theres not enough room to get my air impact gun behind the pulley.

Cheers,

Steve

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

sadly having it done up too tight it still far better than the ones that are not done up tight enough and come undone!!! d'oh! happens a lot and is sometimes an easy fix and sometimes will cost you an engine.

R324DR Proficient

R324DR

Posted
Posted

with the right leverage you can undo most things. i had to put my car up on a hoist, attach a very long steel bar to the breaker bar, get underneath the car, and get two people to swing off it. not the most professional way of doing it, but it worked.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      Sorry. Front brake calipers
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...