Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently purchased a Vagcom 409/KKL 409.1 which uses the FT232RL chip (supports Win7/8) from ebay for US$11 and use it with the Nissan Datascan Consult 2.

Works perfectly on the 300GT.

Edited by o2bfit

Thank you guys, for now it looks like it settled I disconnected the battery in the morning when I got to work and reconnected it at about 5:00PM and it seam like it has come good. The idle sits at about 650 steady the only thing is I can remember from before, when I start the engine the revs shoot up to about 1500 for 1 second and then gradually decrease to where they need to be, is that normal? I start the car up without touching the accelerator at all.

Sounds about normal, when cold, my VQ35 shoots up to nearly 2,000rpm, quickly drops back to about 1,500rpm, then slowly drops down to 650rpm as it warms up. if it is already warm, it probably only peaks up to about 1,200rpm at start and drops back to 650 within about 5 seconds.

I'm surprised a battery disconnect/reconnect helped, ECUs these days don't normally get amnesia that easily..

What website is sell intake gasket for the 250gt skyline. Mines no good it crack. Plus would seafoam work to move all that carbon.

There is a great parts supplier call Nissan. :P

Otherwise Amayama? Which gasket is it, and how could a steel gasket crack? I have pulled apart many hundreds of gaskets and never ruined one... Has it cracked, or is it just the black coating damaged? Take a pic and I will see what I have here.

Were would I find some nice carbon fiber interior dash kit for a 2003 Nissan skyline v35 250gt. Any websites

You could carbon wrap it, I have some parts here to sell that have been wrapped.

There are no websites that sell parts for these, unless you read Japanese. Even then I don't see much in the way of Autobarn style dress up pieces, thank Rajab.

The black coating always peels off, I usually use Hylomar spray on them to replace the coating, but any thin sealant will do.

P1110 NISSAN - Intake Valve Timing Control Bank 1

This fault is usually caused by a faulty sensor for the cam position, but as you have multiple codes I would be checking the power for the sensors, as it is unlikely there would be two faults pop up at once. (Unless you have been playing with plugs etc with the power on) Check the battery compartment isn't flooding with water etc, or that you didn't pull a wire or plug when you had the plenum off.

It sounds like you might be a little lost with it, probably best you take it to a suitable mechanic to sort out.

I know that these Nissan skyline v35 250gt have two cam position sensor bank one and two are located in the back of the engine by the firewall. How many crankshaft sensor does the car have and its location an also what is these two sensors bolted with one bolt in front of the engine with wires attach to it on the inside with oil on it.

Sounds about normal, when cold, my VQ35 shoots up to nearly 2,000rpm, quickly drops back to about 1,500rpm, then slowly drops down to 650rpm as it warms up. if it is already warm, it probably only peaks up to about 1,200rpm at start and drops back to 650 within about 5 seconds.

I'm surprised a battery disconnect/reconnect helped, ECUs these days don't normally get amnesia that easily..

Thanks for that, you put my mind at ease. I did do the ECU relearn steps got the "check engine" light off but the idle seamed to bounce a bit after that but when I cleaned the MAF I disconnected the batt. it seams like it helped.

You just need to get to the antenna connector on the back of the HU.. and to a power source.

I have it...the q was: " do you need to completely remove the radio/HU(as u call it) to install a band expander?"

Edited by pula loca

No. you could remove the engine and cut a hole through the firewall.

Probably easier to take out the radio.

see the problem is like this ... you don't really have to respond: IF YOU CANT f**kING CONTRIBUTE DON'T POST SMART ASS REMARKS!!! IF YOU DON'T KNOW SHUT THE f**k UP!!! NO ONE MAKES YOU RESPOND!!! THIS IS A FORUM !! NOT A PLACE FORE THE SEXUALLY OPPRESSED!! SIMPLE f**kING QUESTION: I NEED TO INSTALL A f**kING BAND EXPANDER so far clear f**kers??? now CAN I DO THIS BY JUST REMOVING THE SIDES OF THE f**kING STEREO/HEAD f**kING UNIT OR WHAT EVER THE f**k U WANT TO f**kING CALL IT OR GO f**k YOURSELVES !!! LITTLE CUTS!!

Settle down Bro. I know you are confused.

Let's think this through.

Either way you have to remove stuff right?

So why not remove what you suggested and see for yourself? If that doesn't work then proceed removing more stuff untill the job is done.

Or take it somewhere and pay them. You do seem retarded, so that's probably the best option.

Good luck and let us know how you go.

see the problem is like this ... you don't really have to respond: I

yep.. that reply encourages me to offer more assistance.... 'sarcasm off''... I think I am understanding why no-one replied in the other thread now..

Edited by sonicii
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
×
×
  • Create New...