Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello there,

I have this 1997 GTST-S2 genuine Skyline and I just had it for a few months.

The car is in perfect shape but when I release the clutch pedal in neutral I hear this faint grumbling and grinding noise.

(a co driver wouldn't notice the noise at all)

I had the same noise on my older BMW, but it was much more pronounced.

(and it happened to be the clutch bearing)

The Skyline's clutch operates perfectly fine so I am wondering if that noise is probably normal?

Thanks for the input ...

Cheers from London,

Andrew

Hi there and thanks for the input.

Should I replace the bearing or just ignore the noise?

If the clutch was not working properly I would replace the whole thing right away.

But it's just fine ..

Maybe I rather wait till the clutch needs replacement or the noise gets too loud to ignore.

Any thoughts on this?

Cheers from London,

Andrew

I think this is actually a gearbox bearing as the thrust bearing usually makes noise when the clutch pedal is pressed in, not when it is released.

Hi ..

I definitely think it's the bearing from the clutch (clutch release bearing).

It's a common diagnosis and I know the sound of it quite well :)

Cheers ...

I think this is actually a gearbox bearing as the thrust bearing usually makes noise when the clutch pedal is pressed in, not when it is released.

It's the input shaft bearing. The throwout bearing makes a noise when you put the clutch pedal in.

When you drive down the road is the whine constant and does it make a sound sound similar to a straight cut gearset?

It's the input shaft bearing. The throwout bearing makes a noise when you put the clutch pedal in.

When you drive down the road is the whine constant and does it make a sound sound similar to a straight cut gearset?

Hi!

There is no whining noise .. it's more of a grumble :)

And when I'm driving down the road you can't hear the noise since it's so faint.

Cheers ...

Edited by Torques

its the gear boxes front bearing thats shrown a .000somethink of a milimeter out of true ie: square of the shaft. got my car 1st owner in aus no noise at all then prob a week or 2 later and one trip to the drags meaning hard launches and warming tires cough cough....

it started makinging a grumbling and werrining (rotational friction) so week later i repaced the throwout flywheel and clutch with after market (extreme molly f.w.,xtreme button clutch comes with throwout.) noise still there that gere box is still going strong and noise hasnt got worse. its not worth the xpens to rebuild it.

Hi ..

I definitely think it's the bearing from the clutch (clutch release bearing).

It's a common diagnosis and I know the sound of it quite well :laugh:

Cheers ...

I bet I know the sound better :laugh:

I still disagree...if the sound occurs when you are releasing the clutch pedal then you can rule out the thrust bearing as this bearing only spins under pressure when pressed against the clutch pressure plate. The fact the noise only occurs in neutral suggests to me a bearing up the front of the gearbox, i.e. input shaft. Replacing this bearing will fix your sound but you may still be left with a rollover noise as per the tolerances being taken up.

Edited by Birds
I bet I know the sound better :pirate:

I still disagree...if the sound occurs when you are releasing the clutch pedal then you can rule out the thrust bearing as this bearing only spins under pressure when pressed against the clutch pressure plate. The fact the noise only occurs in neutral suggests to me a bearing up the front of the gearbox, i.e. input shaft. Replacing this bearing will fix your sound but you may still be left with a rollover noise as per the tolerances being taken up.

Hi Birds,

Thanks for insisting and I will check definitely consider your input.

I'm not sure though that the noise occurs only in neutral and will have to check.

Is there a workshop manual around that covers the gearbox?

Cheers,

Andrew

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...