Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i had iridiums in my 33 when i got it, they were in there for 20,000kms and were stuffed. put in coppers and they were still fine after 10,000kms. so the reason why iridiums aren't any good is because they are a waste of money.

  • Replies 129
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Iridiums are also not ment to be gapped as it damages the end of them. Since most are 1.1 they tend to missfire on high boost applications, hence why most of us run a pre .8 gap on coppers.

y is every1 so against T bolt clamps, they hold on hydraulic hoses on mining equipment fine with 1000+psi im sure they can hold 20psi

n id also like the hear why iridium plugs are no good, i was thinking of getting a set coz arn't coppers only good for like 10,000 clicks?

If you think the iridi's will last 100,000 like they claim - forget that idea.

In a stock application, ye probably, but in a modified one with extra boost - unlikely.

Why pay $120 for a set of plugs that can foul as easy as coppers anything can foul them really, eg: your fuel reg dies, there goes $120 in plugs.

And say thats only 15,000km's into the set, all of a sudden the coppers are worth their price because you change them frequently.

Plugs are like an oil filter, in a modified application change them often, this is a family magna your talking about.

whole heartedly agree...

my last set of coppers were pulled out after 20,000 just for good measure and were still running fine at the time. and that's with 300 very abused rwkw...

the set before that lasted just as long

and the set before that were iridi's and were thrown out after 5,000 odd

Then they most likely are platinums, not iridiums. Not many places keep BKR7EIX in a .8 in stock (atleast that's what i find), most keep the BKR7EIX-11.

EDIT: I just checked back a page and you said PFR7B, yep Platinums.

Edited by PM-R33

yes they come in both 0.8mm gap as well as 1.1, but if you get the 1.1 (which is the factory specified gap for rb motors) they recommend not changing the gap down to 0.8 with the iridiums as it can damage them.

awsome they were the answers i was looking for, so looks like im gna get a set of coppers. while we're on the topic of plugs, what part number do i need or what heatrange should i get and what should i gap it too. they're going on a usual sub 200rwkw rb25 running 10-12psi, im also gonna be changing to splitfires the same time as the spark plugs go in.

cheers

....

power is a simple calculation of

air + fuel + spark + compression = power

whats the tune like?

whats does the AFR look like on max load?

how is the ignition timing tuned?

whats base idle timing ? check it with a timing light?

got it booked in for monday to be seen by another tuner and have this issue diagnosed.

i dont think the turbo is out of puff as ive seen several other rb25's make atleast 270...and im finding it hard to make just up to 245-250rwkw at anything over 14psi.

plus im getting a massive pressure drop without any detonation...so how can it be producing hot air???

Edited by allthewaytotheskyline

found my problem (fingers crossed)

leaking exhaust gas out of a 10mm bolt hole kinda like a little wastegate that constantly open

which would explain why it would hit 18psi then come back down to 15psi

I think its going to go back into the car with a .82 external gate setup now its all out

also i found a crack at the wastegate hole .I dont think that would have been helping my situation either

post-18618-1249705038_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...