Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gt3076R

Nissan housing on it

bolt is missing from the turbine housing

by Nissan housing, you mean OP6?

got a pic of the boost curve before the fix by any chance?

  • Replies 129
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

nah not the OP6

its the recast version bigger wastegate hole etc

sorry no pic of the boost curve

it hasnt been fixed yet because Im tossing up if im going to buy a .82 external setup now that the turbo is off the car

ok ok update...taken my car to c&v performance today...waiting to see how it goes.

I'm interested to see what C&V do with it. He tunes my car. Ive heard some bad feedback on him, but as far as i can tell, he's very good at what he does.

No messing around. No chit chat. In and out. And despite popular belief, he has plenty of experience on Skylines/imports.

Just make sure you let him know you dont want it tuned to within one inch of its life, coz he'll do it. lol

They do a lot of drag cars, and like to get every last drop out of them on the dyno. If you gave him free reign, i have no doubt you would find a nitrous bottle in your boot :P

No messing around. No chit chat. In and out.

That foe some people is a bad reference on its own, as a lot of these guys will tell you they get an endless supply of people wanting to talk shit with them all day.

nnnnnnnnnnnnnn newwwwwwwwwwwwsssss update, ok back from c&v performance and im pulling a ripe 280kw's at 19psi....droppping to in high revs 16psi...due to weak actuator(i was told). any other fix to this????

now...they didnt find any leaks but i suspect...that the last time i pulled apart the intercooler piping and put it back together (after the last dyno) i am presuming it was fixed then.

now im looking to get a 19psi actuator which i have been advised will give me a bit more power throughout the top end of revs as its falling off.

ive got to say....INSTANT, INSANE, BOOST ALL THE WAY TO REDLINE .

my semi slicks are frying taking off from cruising in second gear.

only downside i see..is that im getting knock of 40 when giving it stick...?? is that safe???

i will post the dyno sheet tomorrow...thanks for everyones contribution and help.

i will tell you all how it goes once ive put this bigger actuator in...dissapointed in the hks actuator as its not holding that wastegate shut...

any advice or direction to a 19psi actuator would be great.

level of 40 knock is reasonable levels of detonation - check the tune or just make sure all is ok

see if backing out 1 or 2psi removes that level of knocking, if so it might need 1 or 2deg taken out on the map somehwere

keep an eye on it (covered in the PFC FAQ) at 60 the engine check light will flash

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...