Jump to content
SAU Community

Rack Spacers For More Lock

Dean_HR31
 Share

Recommended Posts

Dean_HR31 Mentor

Dean_HR31

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi Guys,

Bought a pair of GK Tech rack end spacers for more lock. Went to get them installed by a performance mechanic that has a few drift cars in his shop and he didnt want to fit em?

He said he doesnt like putting them in because u lose too much thread the same way you do when fitting slip on spacers to your hub with standard studs.

Is this true? Or does the guy not really know what he's talking about? He said he'd use them for track only work but not street driving?

Let me know guys, cos if they are dangerous, im not going to bother with em...

Dean

Edited by Dean_HR31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278710-rack-spacers-for-more-lock/
Share on other sites
White GTS-T Mentor

White GTS-T

Posted
Posted

As long as they're not bigger than 5mm it will be fine. Anything over 5mm is pushing it; the same goes with slip on spacers. I have had my spacers in for > 12 months driving on the street and track and I can report no adverse effects.

Dean_HR31 Mentor

Dean_HR31

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

hmm... i really hope these rack spacers arnt on the same page of safety as hub slip on spacers cos i really dont like slip on spacers.

Can i have some more opinions/knowledge on this topic... :teehee:

By the way, love your signature dude

Edited by Dean_HR31
mid life crisis Veteran

mid life crisis

Posted
Posted

the reason he dosent want too fit them is if there not adr approved and they fail and you die the blame will go back on him for fitting them for road use . if they fail on track use not his prob . i dont know if there safe or not but ya mechanic is covering his own arse and in these lets sue happy times who can blame him

bcozican Experienced

bcozican

Posted
Posted

what are you not satisfied with... pure fact is as you have been told by such mechanic that they reduce the thread on the end of tie rod end, hence less contact thread for the tie rod to secure onto, hence theortically they are 'dangerous' more so than standard because there is an increased risk off a busted tie rod do to introducing a weakness into the suspension links

and, you have already been told that he said to use em on the track not the street because he is not liable on the track, also there is potentially less bumps etc on the track compared to average street

thats the theory

the practise is alot of people use them most dont have problems some do. the choice is urs to take the potential risk or not

_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted
Surely you can take solace in the fact that both the Tein and Ikeya Formula tie rods come with spacers.

product01-full.jpg

IkeyaTie.jpg

surely they are longer and hardened?

in my datto i had longer tie rods, custom LCA's, adjustable radius rods etc. but that was a macpherson strut setup(S13/r31 style)

nato_wp Enthusiast

nato_wp

Posted
Posted

Spacers are fine in my (and close mates') experience, for the street. As an added measure, to compensate for less thread surface, always use an appropriate thread-locker (choose the right loctite product for your needs). I haven't had ANY disadvantages to installing them. In fact, I think they are the best value-for-money change I have ever made on my car.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

How do they give you more lock when standard the hub hits on the lower control arm? That's the travel limitation, not the effective length of the rack. Plus they move the pivot point of the steering arm further outwards, changing its alignment with the lower control arm pivot point and hence introducing bump steer.

Cheers

Gary

Russman Grand Master

Russman

Posted
Posted

They are the same diametre as the rack itself so it goes 'into' the rack further. Obviously tie rod ends will need to be wound in for allignment.

Just put em in yourself and you can see how much thread you miss out on. It's not that much. Just make sure it's done right.

Then get an allignment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...