Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finnaly got to drive the new stag yesterday after two months and im spewing it took so long for me to get one. they are soooo cool. its smashed every expectation i had of the car from the pics i saw of it. and im still finding gadgets everywhere. the first time i sank the right foot in shocked me. it got up and moved quiet alot quicker than i thought. so happy, but now i do have an unhealthy obssesion with not closing the boot properly jsut so it closes itself haha. :banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279513-absolutley-stoked/
Share on other sites

dont worry i do that too!! then people ask if im going to lock it.......

Yep, me too :P

Then when they see it pull itself shut, they always say "ooh, niiiiice". - yes I know, Stephen, could be taken as dirty, but I refuse to change it!

I've had mine 3+ years and every time I see Mrs 66 drive away I think to myself "thats a nice looking car" LOL

Yeah, had mine for 2+ years but I have only thought that twice... Once when my wife drove it shopping and once when we moved and my Dad was following the truck I was driving... other than that, I think it to myself almost every time I leave or approach it.

I had a quarantine check inspector have a hell of a time with the tailgate in our S1 - he 1/2 closed it, then opened it when it was self closing, then tried to close it when the motor was still running.

I ended up suggesting that I could close it for him so he could move on to the car behind us

:down:

They are a top piece of kit, and welcome to the family!

welcome!!

Yes the self-closing boot is such a cool feature. Its so handy when you have your hands full and you can just get your hand on the boot to pull it down. You just let it fall gently against the car without having to try to slam it when you're carrying too much stuff.

The other tricks I like is the levers either side in the boot to fold down the rear seats, so if you're loading something big into the boot you dont need to go round to each side and fold the seats down first.

I'm disappointed the M35 doesn't have the extra cig lighter in the boot, although admittedly I never used it in the s2. Just would be handy if you want to carry one of those waeco fridges in the boot or something.

The s1/s2's also have a removeable mat under the boot - but mine was missing this.

So many gadgets :thumbsup:

Edited by pixel8r

this might be going off topic but seeing as we are talking about features.... Does everyone elses S2 do this ?

Lock your car with your remote key, then unlock it again (let's say you accidently bumped the unlock button putting keys in pocket). In 30seconds, it locks itself again. It senses none of the doors have been opened within that time and decides it was a false unlock.

Now is this part of my clifford alarm or a standard stagea feature ?

most alarms do this, and also the factory immobiliser (whatever it may be) should do this too. its not just a nissan thing, my honda did it, the scoob, the fiat does it too. its just a security feature incase you bump the remote

this might be going off topic but seeing as we are talking about features.... Does everyone elses S2 do this ?

Lock your car with your remote key, then unlock it again (let's say you accidently bumped the unlock button putting keys in pocket). In 30seconds, it locks itself again. It senses none of the doors have been opened within that time and decides it was a false unlock.

Now is this part of my clifford alarm or a standard stagea feature ?

I reckon that's an alarm feature. Mine never did that, but with the aftermarket alarm, the immobiliser comes on if the key hasn't been put into the ignition after approx 30secs when you remote unlock/disarm it.

The M35 is self-locking (most annoying feature ever) but the s2 is not. Must be a feature of your alarm. Read your alarm manual, I've had alarms that do this but its usually possible to disable the feature.

I've yet to read the V35 manual through to see if its possible to disable the auto-locking on the M35. There is also obviously some combination of doors opening that will prevent it from locking again, but I haven't yet worked out exactly what it is yet...just seems to lock sometimes but not others...

thanks for all the replies everyone. i got a white 98 serise 2 with a dolphin kit and 18inch chromies. so happy with it. and im still shocked at the power delivery. all the gadgets wtill amaze me and i think always will haha. stupid newbie question. the switch to the left of the steering wheel with the s inside the picture of the drive train?? whats it do?? i never wanna stop driving it. ill post some pics up some time as soon as i can. thanks everyone.

Yep, me too :)

Then when they see it pull itself shut, they always say "ooh, niiiiice". - yes I know, Stephen, could be taken as dirty, but I refuse to change it!

Yeah, had mine for 2+ years but I have only thought that twice... Once when my wife drove it shopping and once when we moved and my Dad was following the truck I was driving... other than that, I think it to myself almost every time I leave or approach it.

Glad to see I'm not the only freak....once swapped cars with my wife on a drive just so I could see it moving...lol....she only got it for 5 minutes though....then I had to have MY PRECIOUS back!!!!

Edited by Jetwreck
thanks for all the replies everyone. i got a white 98 serise 2 with a dolphin kit and 18inch chromies. so happy with it. and im still shocked at the power delivery. all the gadgets wtill amaze me and i think always will haha. stupid newbie question. the switch to the left of the steering wheel with the s inside the picture of the drive train?? whats it do?? i never wanna stop driving it. ill post some pics up some time as soon as i can. thanks everyone.
The synchro switch locks on the awd to give 50/50 front/ rear drive when you start off. At higher speeds the computer takes over again and sends most drive to the rear except when the rear starts to lose traction.
hahah if you unlock the car, and dont open any door, it will lock itself again. open a door and it wont re-lock. easy!

nope. if I unlock the car, open the driver or front passenger door and close it, it will still re-lock. even with the boot open it will still re-lock. Its only been things like when all 4 doors open and close then say one opens again and stays open that it wont lock again - something like that. Like I said, its more complex than just leaving a door open, and I've yet to work it out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...