Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello, I am currently considering removing the ABS module from my R32 GTS4. The reasons that I would like to do this are

1. It will remove another item from my engine bay – I am on a mission to make it an area of business in there

2. Save the 5.5kg or so of weight (as weighed by djr81)

3. Improve the feel of my brakes (refer the soft braking threads)

There is one issue that I would like confirmed if possible; can I use a two-hole master cylinder and use a t-piece to connect the front left and front right brakes to the front brakes outlet of the master cylinder? I have attached a before and afetr picture to help with my description.

I am aware that non-abs (3-hole) master cylinders are available, however I would like to avoid changing master cylinders to

1. save the time of sourcing a generally hard to find item

2. save confusion around bore sizes and their effectiveness and identification

3. save the cost of replacing my master cylinder

For reference (and in case someone has a strong alternative opinion) there was some discussion in previous threads claiming that ATTESSA would stop working if the ABS module was removed. I tested this by unplugging my ABS module. With my ABS unplugged the ATTESSA worked fine.

Also, for other people researching the topic, I have listed all of the current ABS removal-related threads below with a brief synopsis.

PIPING

This is the tread where djr81 states the weight of the unit; it also has a picture of the differences (ABS and non-ABS) workshop manual as posted by huddy.

Removing Abs From My R32 Skyline

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...&hl=removal

In this thread huddy said that he had removed the abs in his Cefiro showing a diagram with the non-abs three port master cylinder

Removing Abs from My R32 Skyline

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...&hl=removal

In this thread choku dori had the same idea as me; though this thread remained inconclusive

R32 Gtst Abs Removel, Completely get rid of ABS

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...&hl=removal

In this thread MSRB26 said that he / she had removed the ABS and replaced the lines with no issues at all but did not mention what master cylinder was used.

R33 ABS Removal

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...&hl=removal

ATTESSA

This thread discussed the impact of removing the ABS on ATTESSA. Rowdyr32 believed that it shouldn’t have an impact; though this thread seemed inconclusive.

R32 Gtr Abs Removal, yes an other thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...&hl=removal

DiRTgarage was quite insistant in this thread that removing ABS would have no affect on the ATTESSA in an R32 GTR in this thread

Abs Removal On Bnr32, complete instructions plz !

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ab...&hl=removal

In this thread there was a lot of discussion about the ABS and ATTESSA being electronically linked; however by the end of the thread it seemed that they were not at all.

4wd Not Working After Abs Removal, R32 GTR

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/4w...TTESA&st=20

GENERAL

This thread was generally inconclusive – it seemed that no-one had performed the work.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...&hl=removal

This topic was a general query regarding what was required on huddy’s Cefiro but was inconclusive.

Abs Removal, how to?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ab...&hl=removal

This thread was inconclusive with Baz putting a rather negative slant on the topic of ABS removal. This is inconclusive as many other people have said it is viable.

Abs removal or not ????

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ab...&hl=removal

post-28712-1247785899_thumb.jpg

My HCR32 has no ABS. Why not ask me nicely for my VIN, FAST it, get the part number for the booster/master, and do it that way?

Do it once, do it right. Surely the factory method is better than any backyard bypass!

RB_Ryan; I might just take you up on that offer; though I would like to get people's opinion on the t-piece first. If all the ABS module is doing is working as a t-piece; then $5 gets your ABS module out of the car rather than $400-$750 in buying a new master cylinder from Nissan (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Brake-Master-Cylinder-Reb-t274032.html&hl=master) or hunting down a non-ABS cylinder second hand.

I have noticed that this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...tml&hl=bias it talks about the use of a t-piece. I am not sure if this helps provide opinion.

Edited by Birth
  • 2 weeks later...

For anyone who is interested in this topic; the non abs pipe that runs from the master cylinder to the passenger-side wheel arch is Nissan part number 4624201U10 and costs $33.78 including GST. I don't have the price and part number for the other two, but I understand that they are between $25 and $30 each.

  • 4 months later...
For anyone who is interested in this topic; the non abs pipe that runs from the master cylinder to the passenger-side wheel arch is Nissan part number 4624201U10 and costs $33.78 including GST. I don't have the price and part number for the other two, but I understand that they are between $25 and $30 each.

So what did you do? None of these links you posted have conclusions, much like this one now. Did you simply buy the pipe you mention and T it into the front line of your 2 line GTR BMC?

  • 2 weeks later...

I ended up buying second hand pipes and a non-ABS BM44 master cylinder. The reason I did this was because it all came at a good price.

The master cylinder that I had before was an ABS BM55. The BM44 is noticably longer; it also feels like alot less pressure is required to brake (I assume taht this is a result of the reduced ore).

Overall, I am happy with the change as the job itself was very easy and the removal of the ABS module saved alot of space in my engine bay. Also, I reckon that it weighs about 10kg (I will weigh it properly though for the purpose of this discussion).

At this point I am not sure if I am happy. I would prefer a shorter and firmer brake pedal (but I didn't really have a good brake pedal before). Maybe I will see someone about having my BM55 master cylinder modified to fit 3 outlets. Maybe I will look at a master cylinder with-out a proportioning valve (I think off a Navara) and use a brake bias adjusted; or maybe I will leave it. I will live with it a bit first though to see how I go.

Ultimately, if someone does try it with a t-piece I hope that they post their results here. I for one can't see why it wouldn't work.

im about to do this on my new r33 track car as im using a differant motor and loom in it, therefore i wont have any plugs for it and also the unit was missing when i bought the car, so figured it would be easier and cheaper to make up sum new lines and i can also run the front passanger line down along the crossmember to keep the fire wall neat and simple and i guess it will also keep it away from the exhaust heat a lil bit too. iv got a double flairer tool and tube bender soo will jus need to buy sum line, a fiew screw fittings and a T-peice, im gona keep the standard bmc, as i believe it will be ok, but as u mentioned b4, if needed ill jus grab a brake bias adjuster?

will keep u posted tho....

  • 4 weeks later...

finished it.. it works killa!! spoke to a bunch ob brake places and they all said the same thing...... that it will be perfectly normal, as the abs unit does not divide the pressures left to right or front to back, all it does is stop the wheels from locking up and thats it! so it is no differant what so ever!

hope this helps. cheers

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...
Thats mine :blink:

feel free to ask me questions on here or pm

So what exactly is happening in these pics?

Im guessing that:

1) The brass T-piece is to bypass the abs unit for the front wheels...?

2) The brass joiner (straight piece) is to bypass the ABS unit for the rear brakes...?

The abs unit in my 32 is leaking so im thinking of removing it all together to save some cash.

How exactly did you remove yours? Was it just a matter or taking the unit out and joining the lines together? (as in the pics)

Or was there more to it than that?

Cheers,

Mark

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 years later...

Sorry to bring up an old thread but could those pictures be re posted? I have an R34 GTT that im building for track only and have removed the ABS module and kept the original master with 2 outlets. I just ran a small section to a 'T' piece that splits to both front calipers and then the other outlet from the master goes to my firewall through the firewall to hydro handbrake and then back to the rear circuit. Bled it up yesterday and i have a solid brake pedal and the calipers are stuck on. Cant workout whats happened :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys! Some pics attached 😋
    • Big enough for you, Jackie, and some puppers mate! I vote some GSDs, but I am biased   How big of a block is it on?
    • Well, fun day was had, I finally found a house that will do me just fine, 1980's brick build, but with full fresh renovations, plus new colour bond fencing all round so puppies are incoming 🐕, and water tanks for the garden, and it's located in West Goulburn..... @Duncan 🫡, so day trips to Wakie to watch cars going Zoom will be on the cards In the end it cost well under my budget and was actually better than alot of the more expensive joints I was looking at, it is in a good area, close enough to the shops, public transport, and the Wollondilly River Weir,  and the great walking paths along the river, but far enough away from town to see minimal traffic The deposit is dropped, the conveyancer is conveyancing and I should get the keys in a week or 2 as the property is currently unoccupied  As with everything I own, I'm doing up a modifications list, as it doesn't have solar, that is first up on the big list, all of the panels and enough batteries to keep the joint warm, or cool, followed by a largish carport out the front, the small list, which will start as soon as I have keys, is some security stuff, like cameras, screens, and the usual "crazy prepper" additions that weird old people like (mouse holes to stick shot guns out of, and the usual man traps that the average person installs for the unsuspecting and unwanted guests 🤣) The gardens front and back are OK, but, not to my standards or liking, so landscaping will be a fun job to start getting into, so when spring is sprung I'll do a heap of planting, lots of natives and vegetables is the plan, the old owners were more "Old English Garden" type, so basically Roses and other weird looking things that are destined for the green waste bin One thing that is staying garden wise is a nice established hedge out the front, it is about 5 foot tall and covers the whole front of the property from prying eyes As for the car hoist, the roof in the garage has some height to it, but, I'll need to get an installer out to see what can be done, width wise may be a issue, but my building inspector will be getting back to me over the next week with his recommendations  Small, but cosy     
    • I tried to get in contact before I went to QLD you didn’t respond, then I tried to contact you in r31 club.  I thought you fell off the earth or something haha.  I will grab it off you but unknown when I will be up that way 
    • I think that might be in the question. He is going very low, and I think the standard GTR ones are simple tripod joints (like the rear NA/S chassis ones), not proper CVs (like R chassis turbo/GTR ones). Proper CVs take the misalignment better than tripods.
×
×
  • Create New...