Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, have heard that the standard r34gtt cooler fits straight in place of the stock r33 cooler. Can anyone confirm this for me?

Also, I have read that the stock r33 cooler is efficient up to 180rwkw, the r34 cooler is supposedly thicker and more efficient, does anyone know how much power its good for?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27956-r34gtt-cooler-into-r33/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi gts,

yeh I realise its not going to give the gains that a FMIC will but at 1/10 of the price (approx $150 for 2nd hand) it seems to me to be fairly decent value, unless someone knows otherwise.

how much better than r33 one, does anyone have any figures on it (Ive tried a search couple of times but Ive only found general statements bout efficiency).

hey chief i bolted an R34 cooler into mine, straight swap, no problems.

the thicker core may be a slight disadvantage over wider/thinner cores but when the cooler is ducted correctly it shouldn't be a drama. no increase (discernable) in lag is a big advantage and if you are using it as a road car then most I/C's probably work as heat sinks so the extra 60% ?? vol is an improvement.

Responsiveness may beat kW in many situations.

i have no hard figures on the improvements.

i have one on my R33 with the r34 ducting etc to the cooler and the car is also mdded and hasnt pinged or anything strange,

and doesnt seem to care too much

i could notice on my previous R33 when enough was enough and you had to let it cool. so yeah for the small price its worth it, and if you can set up a decent water spray for a few dollars more then thats alot more efficient that stock but yeah still no FMIC

damn right, they are cheap if you sell the old one, but the best bet is to ensure that you have proper ducting of air onto the cooler by sealing all sides and proper venting into the wheel arch. the wheel arch has a negative pressure (as i understand it) therefore you will get good airflow and velocities thru the cooler (remembering it is a thicker core than the '33) if you take the time to cut and mesh this section.

Agreed, its not a perfect solution for peak HP but for most road applications the responsiveness should leave you ahead. Read rev210's posts if you want some validation from a more authoritative source.

  • 11 months later...

Hi guys,

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I though I would just post my feelings on this topic again.

I just bought and installed an R34 gtt intercooler on my car, I would say that based on my initial impressions, I think it was worth it. :D

Dont get me wrong, Im not seeing masssive differences in power, but I can defiinately feel a significant difference between the new cooler and stock one.

It feels like your upping the boost 0.1bar (or so) more.l As far as actual power differences go I have no idea what sort of improvement I have achieved, but I think that to really notice any difference, you would have to improve power levels by at least 5% so Im assuming were looking at 8-10rwkw.

This is all at 0.7bar mind you, so Im not sure if that makes any difference.

Does anyone have or heard of any real figures on improvements with this sort of upgrade? Would be interested to know.

  • 2 months later...

Hey people, I'm looking at doing this mod if my car doesn't sell quick enough, just to get some extra power :)

How much boost would the R34 intercooler be able to cope with? Note this would be for short bursts just to dart through traffic etc.

12psi? 10psi? I have a good turbo :D

Hey people, I'm looking at doing this mod if my car doesn't sell quick enough, just to get some extra power :)

How much boost on standard turbo would the R34 intercooler be able to cope with? Note this would be for short bursts just to dart through traffic etc.

12psi? 10psi? I have a good turbo :D

12-13psi

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
×
×
  • Create New...