Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by URMINE

exstatic.. i want the front bar and the grill have u got icq or msn(or pm me and ill send u my moby number) so we can have a chat over how to split up the costs?? if the $$$ is right ill buy it with ya...

ICQ 12886924 :P

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

light. if you want genuine they cost like 220 a pop or sumthing stupid. i just got some black perspex cut out the holes inserted (silastic)$1 light globe and hooked it up cost 10 bucks plus 1 hour wasted

lou15x- ill pm ya

pete

Is the kit made for a GTR or GTS as the GTS needs to be smaller (slightly) otherwise it looks ****.

I Have a 400r bar on my car i asked for a GTS bar but i got a GTR bar and its to wide by about an inch or so a side.

so when it is "made" to fit the front of the bar sticks out about a centimetre to far and the bottom of the bar sticks out to the side to much.

I am after a bar so far i have found UAS sell them GTS version that is.

Any one know if they are sold anywhere else maybe in QLD.

I got my bar of blits at the gold coast.

and check yah PM fatz

  • 1 year later...

this is very old

and not exstatic still owes me about 220 bux from this deal

anyone knows him please punch his light out to the tune of 220 dollars please

lol

come one ex static its only been 2 years m8 surely you can afford 220 now ya clown

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...