Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi fellas,

I just bought a set of original 18" Nismo LMGT4 black rims. Although they look ok without the centre caps - I prefer them. Does anyone have a set they want to sell or know of a place that sells them. I don't mind something that is after market or even just plain black just to cover up the centre gaps.

I have tried places like J-Imports and they want like $350 for a set of 4 originals which is fair enough, but I just want something to cover up the centre caps and not fuss about looks now as long as they are in black.

Your help would be much appreciated.

PS: A few of my mates suggest just spraying the centre gap area black and it would blend in - anyone done this?

VRcaps.jpgGTC.jpg

R33GTR.RS.JPG

A few things:

Be careful because on some of the Volk rims the flat caps (the ones in the first photo) don't clear the wheel bearing cap on some rims.

It is common to lose the damn things when you kerb hop at the track.

You can get them from Greenline/Nengun etc cheaper.

It may just be easier to neaten up the bearing cap eg paint/anodise it & use a shiney split pin.

A few things:

Be careful because on some of the Volk rims the flat caps (the ones in the first photo) don't clear the wheel bearing cap on some rims.

It is common to lose the damn things when you kerb hop at the track.

You can get them from Greenline/Nengun etc cheaper.

It may just be easier to neaten up the bearing cap eg paint/anodise it & use a shiney split pin.

Hey mate,

Thanks for your reply.

I kinda think having no caps looks kinda tough. What do you mean by: "It may just be easier to neaten up the bearing cap eg paint/anodise it & use a shiney split pin?"

Do you have an example picture or something?

Thanks mate.

Cheers,

Kevin

I dunno, not like I have any idea what I am on about. :)

If you look at the photo you will see my pos. Bearing cover is missing paint, hub is a lovely shade of iron oxide & the open ended nuts are bleeding red where they exposed metal on the studs & then got wet.

So yeah, tough in a adandoned shopping trolley kind of way.

You can remove the bearing cap & paint or anodise that. Then use a shiney new split pin. Also the hub centre can be cleaned up & painted a bit too.

Or just get some caps & stay away from the kerbs & carparks.

post-5134-1248239602_thumb.jpg

Edited by djr81
I dunno, not like I have any idea what I am on about. >_<

If you look at the photo you will see my pos. Bearing cover is missing paint, hub is a lovely shade of iron oxide & the open ended nuts are bleeding red where they exposed metal on the studs & then got wet.

So yeah, tough in a adandoned shopping trolley kind of way.

You can remove the bearing cap & paint or anodise that. Then use a shiney new split pin. Also the hub centre can be cleaned up & painted a bit too.

Or just get some caps & stay away from the kerbs & carparks.

Ha ha ha.... I get ya now bro... :)

I think I will just spray it black and leave it... although I would prefer to have the caps - they're just so blood expensive.

You got any idea where I can get some cheap non-branded caps from?

Cheers,

Kevin

if you have any luck with original ones at a non ridiculous price let me know please, I'm in need of 2 bronze flat style caps.

cheers, tim

Yeah will do - still frantically looking for mine. ;)

Guys try Nengun....or Powereplay imports but they can be expensive.

Im pretty sure nengun have different types such as "Rays" or "Nismo"

Thanks mate... yeah, they would but would be expensive... I just cannot just paying like $400 for 4 centre caps.

This is what your after.....

http://www.nengun.com/rays-engineering/lmgt4-center-caps

Does anyone have a picture of the 'high type' caps? I've got a feeling the flat ones look better!

post-45675-1248353436.jpg

This is spot on what I am after. Thanks mate. $35 each is not that bad...this I can definitely afford.

What do you think looks nicer - those flat ones or the badgey looking ones?

Flush ones do look better but they may not fit. You need to check.

Yeah, that's exactly what I am worried about...I'm not going to pay like $200 for a set of centre caps only to find the damn things don't fit. Can't really ask the seller for a refund just because I wasn't sure in the first place.

I do like the bold ones, but don't know if it would stand out too much.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...