Jump to content
SAU Community

Nismo Wing On R34 Gtt

Obelisk

By Obelisk,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

Obelisk Community Regular

Obelisk

Posted
Posted

Hi guys

I'm considering abt keep or get rid of my NISOM wing on my R34 GTT. The car is black and the wing is the real set from jap came with the car, which means it cost a lot!!! Around $800 for the real 3 piece set in Jap!!!

I have pics here, so what u guys think? Back to standard one? Or keep it?

Looks like this, but all in black.

post-52244-1248271048_thumb.jpg

post-52244-1248271523.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280325-nismo-wing-on-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites
JGTC Proficient

JGTC

Posted
Posted

It's quite a task to remove the factory aero wing, i believe theres about 8 bolts (2 on each rear quarter panel and 4 in the bootlid) So unless you completly can't stand it, i'd carefully consider

I remember one guy on here, said he paid up to 2K to remove the wing, weld the holes and respray the 3 panels, so it's a costly project unless you want rust coming through

Most people on here hate that wing but i love it haha, it looks nice if you got a big bodykit to go with it

All the best

Danny

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Mmmm gotta say dude, in my opinion its yuck. Worst spoiler ever made. May be expensive, but i would pay someone to take it away for me.

I say take it off, sell it, you could get some money for it.

Each to their own of course though

Obelisk Community Regular

Obelisk

Posted
  • Author
Posted
It's quite a task to remove the factory aero wing, i believe theres about 8 bolts (2 on each rear quarter panel and 4 in the bootlid) So unless you completly can't stand it, i'd carefully consider

I remember one guy on here, said he paid up to 2K to remove the wing, weld the holes and respray the 3 panels, so it's a costly project unless you want rust coming through

Most people on here hate that wing but i love it haha, it looks nice if you got a big bodykit to go with it

All the best

Danny

Looks like u and me are the only two in the world who like it dude, are u going to buy them? Caz everyone ask me to get rid of it~ I'll make it cheeeeeeaaaaaaaap for u.

Yo-Yo Grand Master

Yo-Yo

Posted
Posted
It's quite a task to remove the factory aero wing, i believe theres about 8 bolts (2 on each rear quarter panel and 4 in the bootlid) So unless you completly can't stand it, i'd carefully consider

try 7 on each quarter panel and 2 on the bootlid

no joke

Tough R34 Rising Star

Tough R34

Posted
Posted

dude get rid of it

its way too big a it destroys the rear look of the car.

i had it on mine and its the best thing i ever done

unfortunately there are 6 bolt holes on each guard for those ugly side pieces, so even if you change to a stock/gtr wing you will need someone to patch it up..

cost me $1350. all holes led filled was $350 and undercoated(a friend of a friend done it) could cost upto $700.

and i got the rear reprayed for $1000.

check my gallery pics you'll see the difference.

Yo-Yo Grand Master

Yo-Yo

Posted
Posted
Why？ Sorry man I didnt get it?

I was commenting on the other guys post,

sorry I'll be more constructive for you

in my opinion it's a big undertaking to remove the nismo spoiler and should only be done properly, no shortcuts.

There will a total of 7 bolt holes on each rear quarter which will need to be patched up, if you are going for the wingless look the 4 bolt holes on the boot will have to be filled in as well, if you want to add a spoiler than don't worry

that still leaves the 14 bolt holes which will need to be patched up for the rear quarters.

welding plates behind and bogging the holes will be cheaper but rust can still happen and the rear quarters can warp if a rush job is done so paying the little bit extra for a proper job will be better for the long run (ie; the panel shop should solder the holes up, not weld plates in and bog, blend paint from the roof back etc so it was as if the car never left the factory with that ghastly spoiler)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Duncan
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By Duncan · Posted

      Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Duncan
      New

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...