Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They look shit was gonna weigh them but our scales have flat batteries, but i must say they are light as a feather... can't wait to fit them, tires should be here in a few days.:thumbsup:

lol did you mean they look good? nothing shit about these rims mate :P

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys

Update time again. The rims and tires have all arrived and been fitted, the Bee R side skirts have also turned up (look awesome), and we are currently constructing the paint booth as i write this, so painting should commence very soon. Here's some pics.thumbsup.gif

215107_10150167956018485_679318484_6777182_4176740_n.jpg

205501_10150167956063485_679318484_6777183_7372270_n.jpg

Home made painting booth being build F*#k paying $10k for someone to do it hahaha!!!!!

216688_10150167956123485_679318484_6777184_5452879_n.jpg

215549_10150167956178485_679318484_6777185_5446706_n.jpg

205736_10150167956223485_679318484_6777186_7824316_n.jpg

The gaming room has been turned into a parts storage facility.

218178_10150167956293485_679318484_6777187_3317560_n.jpg

205218_10150167956353485_679318484_6777188_827618_n.jpg

Bride floor mats for the R33

215118_10150167956388485_679318484_6777190_302715_n.jpg

208698_10150167956438485_679318484_6777191_286018_n.jpg

Our next lil project will be equiped with this 750hp HKS T04Z (sorry its not a GTR is a gay 1998 Supra hahaha!!!).

205202_10150167956473485_679318484_6777192_7878561_n.jpg

Hankooks vs Advans

207597_10150167956558485_679318484_6777196_568116_n.jpg

Test fitting the Bee R Skirts

217576_1828196417433_1016007230_2064040_2087827_n.jpg

215932_1828196657439_1016007230_2064041_4922544_n.jpg

Yeah i will probably post the supra build to help advertise our business (Race Bred Enterprise) it hopefully will be ready for Jamboree to go into the show and shine.

The Supra Build List:

-Full HKS T04Z Kit

-Full HKS Type R Intercooler Kit

-Vipec V88 ECU

-Precision 1000cc Injectors

-Titan Motorsport Fuel Rail

-HKS 272 Exhaust Cam

-NPC Twin Plate Clutch

-Koyo Radiator

Plus much more, build should begin soon nearly have all the parts ready to go.

12844_183191817312_580332312_2787251_2617124_n.jpg

Lol the lotto would be nice to win, the supra belongs to good mate of mine and he has left me in charge of the build, should be fun little project, everything is bolt on items so shouldn't be a hard one at all probably only take a week to do. Speaking of other project i am about to get a 2008 Evo X MR that i will be picking up in a few weeks, pretty excited about that, its gonna be my daily driver so its not gonna be extremely modified just your basic bolt ons. Lucky we bought the AME Tracer wheels they will fit the Evo perfectly (if my brother lets me hahaha). The R33 GTR looks like it will be getting turned into a fully spec track car now so everything on that will be getting sold off that over the next couple of months (maybe) as i don't really need 2 daily drivers and its hard to use its full potential on the street, anyways heres a pic of my new toy:

216126_10150168013923485_679318484_6777519_3862886_n.jpg

215849_10150168013953485_679318484_6777520_6912109_n.jpg

The Evo will be a nice everyday street car in traffic and can probably hold its own against most of the pain in the arse falcodores, but i will always be a GTR man until the day I die.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi

Update time, the car is almost complete, another few weeks and it will be tearing up the North QLD roads, the last bit of painting should be done by today and then its re-assembly time. All the glass is at the window tinting shop get done super dark, hopefully won't see the rollcage through it, and it will probably be getting glued in next week. We are currently trying to get a Car Show/Dyno/Burnout comp happening at Palmyra Dragstrip on the 25th of June this is when the car will make its debut, it should be fingercrossed ready by then. So we should have enough time to get practice in before Jamboree so we don't look like complete useless dickheads when we get there :yucky: . The carbon boot and doors have not been fitted yet as they will be used for major drag events, we still have to fabricate a drag wing and buy and mount the parachute aswell.

We also have a few more bits coming in the mail, a set of Carbon Ganador Mirrors, A tow hook which has to be fitted, and my brother bought some front clear indicators (i keep telling him the gonna look like shit, see how they look when they turn up).

Anyways here's some pics of the paint job:

228652_10150192543998485_679318484_7033246_3948366_n.jpg

224032_10150192544163485_679318484_7033247_5715215_n.jpg

228497_10150192544358485_679318484_7033249_3609708_n.jpg

228308_10150192544458485_679318484_7033250_6809466_n.jpg

221639_10150192544623485_679318484_7033251_2382406_n.jpg

230825_10150192544718485_679318484_7033252_7585523_n.jpg

227912_10150192544868485_679318484_7033254_7603203_n.jpg

225895_10150192545038485_679318484_7033255_6795545_n.jpg

230590_10150192545203485_679318484_7033256_3494963_n.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...