Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

not much going on here atm...been raining heaps...so for all i know the car is full of water.

Been trying to come up with some dash designs...thinking Autometer Tach with peak recall and boost and oil pressure replacing the factory cluster.

and the Greddy E-01 display, the tech-edge display and oil, exhaust gas and water temp guages replacing the stereo/ac controls and having a switch panel and the E-01 controller mounted either under all that or on the trans tunnel behind the gear lever all done on aluminium sheet.

So does any one have pics of their track skyline that retains the factory upper dash board.

  • Replies 340
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

not much going on here atm...been raining heaps...so for all i know the car is full of water.

Been trying to come up with some dash designs...thinking Autometer Tach with peak recall and boost and oil pressure replacing the factory cluster.

and the Greddy E-01 display, the tech-edge display and oil, exhaust gas and water temp guages replacing the stereo/ac controls and having a switch panel and the E-01 controller mounted either under all that or on the trans tunnel behind the gear lever all done on aluminium sheet.

So does any one have pics of their track skyline that retains the factory upper dash board.

What are you doing in regards to the heater controls?

I want to keep "something" so I can defog the front window (as it's registered, I "need" to keep the heater + fan for window)

I'm thinking a switch for fan on/off, and have it constantly set to "Window" when I turn a switch on? (As powered off, it switches to feet)

I'm just going sheet alu in there, with at least boost, oil temp, oil pressure and water temp. Might throw fuel pressure in too if I get enough room.

I think Duncan has a sweet setup in the GTR, from memory 1 large central guage, and 4 "orbiting" guages around it filing that spot in.

I spent the morning pulling out the abomination of a wiring job under the dash...what a mess!!! ill get some pics of what i have pulled out in a min.

Also got a great deal on an autometer 2 5/8" liquid filled pro-comp water temp guage yesterday, $300 bucks off the RRP so thanks Repco :) just need to get a 3/8" BSP adapter and it will fit where the factory radiator temp sender goes.

I still cant get my E-01 boost controller working it turns on but i cant change any of the screens or access the menu :)...luckily i got it cheap so i might send it off to get repaired if I can.

Also bought a RPM 5-point 3" Harness the other day so once i get my new seat in. ill start looking at mounting it up.

Which brings me to a question....where do you guys mount the crotch strap? through the floor? or in the the cross brace the the factory seats mount to at the front?

really depends where your seat ends up. mine is very adjustable because Kel and I are a little different in height so I bolted it to the cross bar (with appropriate plates to brace).

but through the floor with large reinforcing plates directly below the hole in the seat is the best place

really depends where your seat ends up. mine is very adjustable because Kel and I are a little different in height so I bolted it to the cross bar (with appropriate plates to brace).

but through the floor with large reinforcing plates directly below the hole in the seat is the best place

cool ill go through the floor then i think...just have to wait until the seat is in before drilling holes and welding in plates.

Here is the rats nest that was the wiring for the Alarm..... :D there was 4 relays, 2 random fuses that would have been impossible to change if one blew and i had to pull out half the fuse box under the dash to get most of it out...

post-16947-1266729771_thumb.jpg

Dash is a work in progress..going to make up a switch panel next chance i get...also need to finish stripping the passenger side of the car and make up 2 ECU mounts (EMU and standard ECU)...then its in with the dry ice and out with the sound deadener

post-16947-1266729831_thumb.jpg

hahah another flux capacitor! don't follow my lead, who knows if the damn thing will do the job!?!

BTW I can't get seats...they are out of stock indefinately. Just Jap are next cheapest place I know.

FLUX CAPACITOR IS A GO!

I have this bad boy on the way from the states ICE BOX CLICKY CLICKY

Also ordered this from UAS today :cheers:

post-16947-1267170899_thumb.jpg

3.5" Kakimoto stainless cat back.

Sucks about those seats dunc, ill sort somthing out though

Not enough room to fit a biggish water to air cooler on the drivers side to feed the greddy copy with out some rediculously tight bends...with is next to impossible to do with 3" piping.

So it looks like im going back to the standard lower half plenum runners, and i will get a center feed 6 litre plenum made up to suit a 90mm throttle body, with the I/C on the passenger side. unless sombody can show my a big power car using the standard plenum and t/b (600ish hp at the crank).

Edit...shuld have said 4.5L plenum...dunno where I got 6 from lol

did you look into putting where the battery/fuse box was like we did? the bend from the frontmost exit from the cooler to the plenum is not too bad. then the rear exit from the cooler goes up and over the motor to the turbo(s).

ryan...I can imagine freezing problems if you are running dry ice thru it for drag purposes....but I assume andrew will be running regular coolant through a second radiator and electric water pump like we will

yeah thats where i wanted it done...but its just a bees dick away from fitting..that side of the engine bay is too shallow (no battery in the bay on a 33) and the core is 4.5" this and 12" x 12.25" basicly the outlet of the core is smack bang where the throttle body is..and even if i could get a bend int there to join it up i wont be able to shut the bonnet :P

and yes you are correct running water and radiator .....i will have a 2.6gal alloy resovior that is designed to take normal ice cubes to cool the water for sprints and yes the quarter..i wanna do a bit of drag racing aswell..so watch out for a rather large turbo setup that may be familiar to some of us NSW members.

dunc what pump are you gonna run...im either gonna use a davies craig pump or the bosch / ford motorsport / AMG one if the dollar is good.

P.s look here for good shiz for the nugget setup http://www.frozenboost.com

I wouldn't bother wasting your time or resources doing a water to air.

If you want 600hp that's a walk in the park even for the cheap Chinese coolers on the market

the expense you are going to go to setting it up and making it work could be far better spent on other things or even better put it away for a dry sump setup latter down the track.

People don't care what's different on a race car they care about what works and is simple.

An air to air is as simple as it gets and inexpensive.

At the end of the day the negatives out weigh the positives

extra weight, complexity of plumbing, extra water joints that can leak. Extra water lines that can fail, more water pumps and resiviours required. Additional radiator needed for the system. Additional fans and pump controllers/wiring.

My oppinion way to much shit to potentially go wrong when the only major gain is possibly a few degrees off the inlet temps IF you get the whole thing right. And maybe a little less cooler piping which won't make squat difference anyways.

I had the same thoughts as you brad to begin with...but the more i researched the idea the more it grew on me...while yes the extra weight and complexity are down sides it really isnt all that complex a setup, and much less complex than a dry sump which has the same sort of issues you mentioned just with oil instead of water.

I doubt that I will end up racing this car properly now anyhow because i no longer have the buget to fund a full race season. so really its just becoming a mule to try a few things over time, maybe it will fail, maybe it will reel off 1000hp.

either way ill be happy I did it my way and not just stick with whats the norm...which is a bit ironic being that the car is a 33 gtst lol

not just stick with whats the norm...which is a bit ironic being that the car is a 33 gtst lol

QFT! ROFL

You keep giving me inspiration... The poor new garage I'm moving too isn't going to know what hits it when my car gets there... (And it's a brand new garage+house... LOL...)

I need to rework my dash a bit too, looking at some custom shit around the factory speedo/alternator.

  • 4 weeks later...

not much to report....decided to completly re wire the thing after i move...the whole car is a mess so i think the only safe thing to do is re wire it from scratch with one of these.

http://www.vpw.com.au/productgroup.asp?Cat...p;PrdGrpID=4180.

I think ill only need the 12 circuit one as all i can think ill need would be

1. fuel pump

2. ign

3. brake lights

4. starter

5. wind screen wipers

6. guages / dash

7. water pump for the flux capacitor

8. head lights

9. windows (if i dont go lexan)

If i have missed any thing please let me know.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...