Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 340
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hahahah yep, good thing with the microtech is that its quite simple, no VCT wiring, No AAC valve, etc etc, so its just injectors, ignition, fuel pumps and the CAS, although I have heard that the altenator needs to be hooked up to the dash light otherwise it wont charge....that sounds like an old wives tale to me though, guess I will find out

Brake lights are easy, headlights will just be a switch on the dash same with wipers

Charcoal cannister is long gone lol, just gotta remove the lines now. I thought about no booster, but my knees are fubar, and i sometimes struggle on track with the booster, so non assisted brakes are a no no.

I'll find out for you in regards to the alternator... I'm being lent some top secret information that should have that in it... :P

I havent heard of anyone having much success without the booster. A few people that weve raced with have done it and then reverted back.

You will save a fair whack of weight too. There is so much useless wiring....

I havent heard of anyone having much success without the booster. A few people that weve raced with have done it and then reverted back.

You will save a fair whack of weight too. There is so much useless wiring....

The only people I've heard of that have reverted, haven't changed the brake pedal ratio.

I'll find out for you in regards to the alternator... I'm being lent some top secret information that should have that in it... :(

A light is required as it is used as such to turn the alternator on.

A small dash globe in a pilot light is what I use as its enough to do the job. An LED can also be used but it must be used in conjunction with a resistor otherwise it wont charge initialy when you start it. I have used LED's by them selves but its not perfect.

the wiring is easy for the alt itself. the 2 pin plug that goes into the back is has a diagram on the alternator that should show S / L the S needs to have a battery feed and the L needs to run to one side of a pilot light and the other side of the pilot light needs to be switched on by the ignition. key on light comes on. start engine light goes out.

also you will be grate full for having the light down the track when the alt shits itself you will know straight up.

That is possible, though some went to an aftermarket pedal box, which no doubt was different to standard (but possibly not correct, or maybe was, never got into that detail about it) and said the braking/pedal feel wasnt as good as standard. No suprises there. However, I cant see it being as good as the standard assisted setup. Seems like more a space saving/minor weight saving thing to do, rather then something that will actually kelp you go faster around the track....

But each to their own :( Lol though maybe qld'ers cant work it out as well as you nsw'ers.

Exactly. Change the pedal ratio and size the master cylinder properly for a setup without assistance and it works okay.

You will bend tr firewall and pedal bracket if not reinforced well.

Hence why most atleast buy an overhung pedal box with a 6.25 pedal ratio.

It's not as simple as relocating the pivot pin to change the ratio either. The pushrods needs to remain square to the rear of the master cylinder so there is some stuffing around with cylinder mounting.

Well worth the effort of going non assisted.

Who ever was doing that pedal box had no idea how to set it up properly. A well done system will give you a far superior pedal feel and feedback, it's more consistant particularly when you start left foot braking, you gain proper bias control and the pedal can be styled to suit anyones driving habbits with the right masters.

It took us a while to get our heads around master sizing and so forth but done right they are worth it.

Edited by Risking

I use tilton products as I have an awesome supplier for them. In a skyline we use a steel twin pedal hung box. by the time you factor in the two pedals, the mounting you need to do ( really needs to hang from a dash bar on a cage) the three master cylinders ( 2 brake 1 clutch) 3 resiviours and hoses etc there is very little if any weight saving.

Using a 3 pedal tilton floor mount in my r34 which is possibly as heavy as factory system if not more.

Good to hear you guys figured it all out. We never bothered looking into it after we hadnt seen anyone else with much success doing it. Plus never had any issues with the factory setup and alcon brakes. It took me quite a while to left brake and get used to the sensativity....But like anything you adapt and get a feel for it.

But I can see how the setup could easily be tailored to suit.

Edited by r33_racer
A light is required as it is used as such to turn the alternator on.

A small dash globe in a pilot light is what I use as its enough to do the job. An LED can also be used but it must be used in conjunction with a resistor otherwise it wont charge initialy when you start it. I have used LED's by them selves but its not perfect.

the wiring is easy for the alt itself. the 2 pin plug that goes into the back is has a diagram on the alternator that should show S / L the S needs to have a battery feed and the L needs to run to one side of a pilot light and the other side of the pilot light needs to be switched on by the ignition. key on light comes on. start engine light goes out.

also you will be grate full for having the light down the track when the alt shits itself you will know straight up.

Awesome :(

That is exactly what i needed to know :D

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
×
×
  • Create New...