Jump to content
SAU Community

Im Not A Fan Of Volvos, But

sturb25

By sturb25,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

sturb25 Proficient

sturb25

Posted
Posted

Im an owner of a stagea and the worst thing i can hear is people saying that my car looks like a volvo. It drives me mad, so mad that ive developed this hate for volvo's. But i found this website thing that has the most neatest volvo ive ever seen, so neat its showed me that even volvo's can look shmick with some money dished into them.

Have a look at this and tell me what u think, imagine turning ur stag into one of these!

http://www.swedespeed.com/news/publish/Vol...rticle_679.html

sweet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281239-im-not-a-fan-of-volvos-but/
Share on other sites
pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted (edited)

408hp!! nice :)

6 speed auto too, and an AWD system that sounds similar to ATTESA except that it waits for wheel slippage before it intervenes...

cant say i'm a fan of the looks though. still undeniably a volvo...but then i'm not much interested in 4wd's/offroad cars so maybe i'm biased.

Edited by pixel8r
pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted
thats how attesa works, it detects slip and transfers it to the front........

kind of. Attesa uses g-force sensors (both longitudinal and latitudinal) as well as the ABS sensors, throttle position and probably a bunch of other inputs to determine which wheels are likely to have the most traction. As you know, it reads all of these inputs 100x a second via its 16-bit processor.

The way attesa works is that if it detects (or ANTICIPATES - here's the difference from the volvo one) traction loss on any wheel, it directs torque away from that wheel. Often it doesn't wait for the wheel to slip, because the g-force sensors will already be telling it that traction loss will or may occur.

I'd say the volvo one is very similar but there was no mention of g-force sensors or the like.

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted
kind of. Attesa uses g-force sensors (both longitudinal and latitudinal) as well as the ABS sensors, throttle position and probably a bunch of other inputs to determine which wheels are likely to have the most traction. As you know, it reads all of these inputs 100x a second via its 16-bit processor.

The way attesa works is that if it detects (or ANTICIPATES - here's the difference from the volvo one) traction loss on any wheel, it directs torque away from that wheel. Often it doesn't wait for the wheel to slip, because the g-force sensors will already be telling it that traction loss will or may occur.

I'd say the volvo one is very similar but there was no mention of g-force sensors or the like.

hmm is that in ALL atessa systems? my car slips before it will push to the front.......... maybe its fooked like the gearbox lol

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted
hmm is that in ALL atessa systems? my car slips before it will push to the front.......... maybe its fooked like the gearbox lol

probably depends on a lot of factors. Obviously on a wet/slippery surface, the g-force sensors aren't going to help a whole lot. These are more for when you're pushing the limits on a surface where you otherwise would have grip. The system is the same as the GTR (R33/34) more or less, but the ATTESA computer and variables are likely to be tweaked for each application.

All of that said, it is possible to get the back to step out in most stageas if you attack a tight corner with your foot on the accelerator, but you will feel the front wheels trying to bring that under control as you do so.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...