Jump to content
SAU Community

Im Not A Fan Of Volvos, But

sturb25

By sturb25,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

sturb25 Proficient

sturb25

Posted
Posted

Im an owner of a stagea and the worst thing i can hear is people saying that my car looks like a volvo. It drives me mad, so mad that ive developed this hate for volvo's. But i found this website thing that has the most neatest volvo ive ever seen, so neat its showed me that even volvo's can look shmick with some money dished into them.

Have a look at this and tell me what u think, imagine turning ur stag into one of these!

http://www.swedespeed.com/news/publish/Vol...rticle_679.html

sweet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281239-im-not-a-fan-of-volvos-but/
Share on other sites
pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted (edited)

408hp!! nice :)

6 speed auto too, and an AWD system that sounds similar to ATTESA except that it waits for wheel slippage before it intervenes...

cant say i'm a fan of the looks though. still undeniably a volvo...but then i'm not much interested in 4wd's/offroad cars so maybe i'm biased.

Edited by pixel8r
pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted
thats how attesa works, it detects slip and transfers it to the front........

kind of. Attesa uses g-force sensors (both longitudinal and latitudinal) as well as the ABS sensors, throttle position and probably a bunch of other inputs to determine which wheels are likely to have the most traction. As you know, it reads all of these inputs 100x a second via its 16-bit processor.

The way attesa works is that if it detects (or ANTICIPATES - here's the difference from the volvo one) traction loss on any wheel, it directs torque away from that wheel. Often it doesn't wait for the wheel to slip, because the g-force sensors will already be telling it that traction loss will or may occur.

I'd say the volvo one is very similar but there was no mention of g-force sensors or the like.

zei20l Grand Master

zei20l

Posted
Posted
kind of. Attesa uses g-force sensors (both longitudinal and latitudinal) as well as the ABS sensors, throttle position and probably a bunch of other inputs to determine which wheels are likely to have the most traction. As you know, it reads all of these inputs 100x a second via its 16-bit processor.

The way attesa works is that if it detects (or ANTICIPATES - here's the difference from the volvo one) traction loss on any wheel, it directs torque away from that wheel. Often it doesn't wait for the wheel to slip, because the g-force sensors will already be telling it that traction loss will or may occur.

I'd say the volvo one is very similar but there was no mention of g-force sensors or the like.

hmm is that in ALL atessa systems? my car slips before it will push to the front.......... maybe its fooked like the gearbox lol

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted
hmm is that in ALL atessa systems? my car slips before it will push to the front.......... maybe its fooked like the gearbox lol

probably depends on a lot of factors. Obviously on a wet/slippery surface, the g-force sensors aren't going to help a whole lot. These are more for when you're pushing the limits on a surface where you otherwise would have grip. The system is the same as the GTR (R33/34) more or less, but the ATTESA computer and variables are likely to be tweaked for each application.

All of that said, it is possible to get the back to step out in most stageas if you attack a tight corner with your foot on the accelerator, but you will feel the front wheels trying to bring that under control as you do so.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GT-T cycling ABS pump

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • GTSBoy
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • R32 TT
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By R32 TT · Posted

      Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • MBS206
      33 GTR Broken front wheel knuckle

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • GTSBoy
      R34 auto to manual conversion help

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...