Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ppl

I am looking at changing my SSQV back to a stock BOV. just to keep the hassle of being pulled over.

Running 1.1bar with 3037, power fc etc etc.

WOuld it be ok for me to swap it back to a stock bov and do i need to retune or anything that i need to do?

Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281995-hks-ssqv-back-to-stock-bov/
Share on other sites

Hi ppl

I am looking at changing my SSQV back to a stock BOV. just to keep the hassle of being pulled over.

Running 1.1bar with 3037, power fc etc etc.

WOuld it be ok for me to swap it back to a stock bov and do i need to retune or anything that i need to do?

Thanks in advance!

I cant see it being a prob. My mate Al (2LV8ETR) just put hes stock bov back on recently for the same reason and he puts 22 psi or more thru that baby and its all good with the stock bov, so i cant see ya haven any dramas. Also remember that plumb back system may be needed again.

is the HKS atmo or plumb back?

if its ATMO the tuner might have tuned to compensate for the ATMO stalling stupid behaviour

so if you find it being grumpy on gear change or return to idle and it was an AMTO bov

then it might need a touch up on the map and a re-check of the fuel cut recovery etc

not major, just a few screens to check, should take 10 minutes tops?

thats only if its ATMO and the tuner had to compensate for it being stupid

paul: what is the go with power fc tuning for atmo bov's? Im just intersted in wether its a setting/settings you change or is it just altering the fuel (and possibly igniton) maps to componsate for the air that isnt getting plumbed back into the system?

Just curious

Thanks

Most likely - spring rates, release pressure etc.

It might be minor, it might be ok... it's anyone's guess.

IMO buy a GTR BOV, chuck that on, live happy ever after (once you get the tune/driveability checked if its a problem)

most of the time just fiddle with the decel fuel recovery, I have mine set to 1200rpm and it's fine running without a BOV doesn't stall, even with the A/C on. With the stocker you can set it like 200rpm+ of the idle, so 1050rpm or so

if you set it too high your car will idle a tad high before dropping to the set idle setting.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...