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Can I Achive 330rwhp With The Following Mods


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After constant reading im still looking for a deffinite answer there are so many differnt opinions on here. Need to know if 330hp is achiveable with the following mods:

3 Inch Exaust

just jap dump pipe

SAFC II

K&N Pod

Turbotech boost contoller (10psi)

Just jap FMIC

with these mods i have 216rwhp

Im plannig to get a hypergear hyflow in the next cpl weeks and want to boost it to something like 16psi. ( could be higher if needed)

I also plan to get a just jap adjustable exahust cam gear and retard the timing

I do not want to touch the AFM, clutch, injectors or fuel pump. i could get a Fuel pressure regulator if needed tho.

is 330 achivable if not what the most i could push

will R&R be a problem

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If i was you i'd be putting in a heavy duty clutch and lightened flywheel to give better acceleration before you do too much on the engine, gave me a very noticeable difference after i blew out mine. It feels like the power is distributed more evenly and with this clutch my wheels spin changing from 1st to 2nd....2nd to 3rd...and if i'm hammering it, 3rd to 4th - i'm pretty sure that it is just gripping wicked hard though.

As for the turbo side of this, i'm still yet to cross that path...yes i spin it without a turbo :blink:

Oh but by the looks of it you might just reach 330rwhp if you do those mods and boost the boost!!

Edited by MahZaR
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After constant reading im still looking for a deffinite answer there are so many differnt opinions on here. Need to know if 330hp is achiveable with the following mods:

3 Inch Exaust

just jap dump pipe

SAFC II

K&N Pod

Turbotech boost contoller (10psi)

Just jap FMIC

with these mods i have 216rwhp

Im plannig to get a hypergear hyflow in the next cpl weeks and want to boost it to something like 16psi. ( could be higher if needed)

I also plan to get a just jap adjustable exahust cam gear and retard the timing

I do not want to touch the AFM, clutch, injectors or fuel pump. i could get a Fuel pressure regulator if needed tho.

is 330 achivable if not what the most i could push

will R&R be a problem

mate for a start you didnt even mention what engine you are modifing. have a look thru the sticky threads for rb20/25/26 dyno results and see for yourself.

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your power seems a bit low for what you got. you will need to get rid of the injectors, SAFC2 and stock clutch and get yourself some 550cc injectors, full ECU and upgraded clutch to get to where you want to go. AFM will be ok at 330rwhp but anymore you will need to get a Z32 AFM

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as mentioned for what you got that's quite low!

last dyno tune i had

pod filter

hybrid fmic

3.5" greddy catback

12psi

stock everything else

173kw / 231hp at the wheels

now running a 3" jjr split dump + high flow cat, new coilpacks and same boost... feels way better then before, getting it dynoed on 15th and hoping around the 195kw / 260hp mark

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clutch will fail, pump you need and a reg. dont skimp on your fuel system dude. as far as afm is concerned there is nothing wrong with the stockies to about 250rwkw. 330 rwhp is achievable with what you want.

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... so simply i wanna know what is the first thing thats gonna become an issue for power the:

computer ( rembering it has an safc ii)

the afm ( i ive read goof for 250rwkw)

the injectors

the fuel pump

the clutch ( was replaced about 1 yr ago not sure what with bought it that way)

what is the most power i could squeeze then

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Here are the things I have read that seem to be the accepted norm:

Fuel pump can be an issue very early, like 200rwkw. Best to change this, you can do it yourself if you are patient and plan carefully.

I can't see how the RB25 AFM can read properly at 250rwkw when at 190rwkw mine reads 85% flow. That seems to indicate it's good up to about 225rwkw.

Sure you can get more power from an engine by fooling the ECU but the measured flow/load will be constant so it won't really know what it's doing.

The injectors limit is around 220rwkw (with a touch of headroom) on stock base pressure. 370cc rule of thumb is 370hp for a 6 cylinder. 370 x 0.746 (kw/hp) x 80% (drivetrain) = 220rwkw.

Clutch - who knows? What type of clutch etc etc etc. Probably also around 220rwkw if it's full-face organic, also depends on how you change gears.

Computer is not much good at anything over 9psi on R33 GTST. You can get a remap ECU if you only want to max out the stock turbo - it will give more power in quite a few rev ranges. I have an SAFC II and didn't find it much chop really. with an SAFC II you will be able to make decent peak power but fuel economy, mid-range torque and throttle response will not be anywhere near as good as a decent remap or ECU.

Short answer = 220rwkw (if you change the fuel pump)

Edited by simpletool
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when i was tuning my mates 33 with a 3076 on it the afm was hitting about 95% at 250kw (336hp), so the afm will still cope with that power level, although it would be wise to go to a bigger afm for safety sake.

fuel pump it depends on the condition of the pump. a dodgy pump will struggle to cope with 170kw let alone anything over 200, yet one in good condition would go above 200kw easily (i know people with 220kw on the stock pump and injectors). however from an engine safety point of view it would be best to change it. changing the pump isn't very hard at all and shouldn't take much more than an hour. just remember to do it in a well ventilated area.

clutch, again that is anyones guess. mostly comes down to things like how it is driven and tyres. if you have a good set of tyres and give it a hard time then it will slip. if you have crap tyres that spin easy then the clutch will last a bit longer as the clutch can out grip the tyres.

the ecu will go over 9psi. up to around 11 or 12psi it will cope with easily. above that it starts to reach it's safety parameters and starts to go crying to mummy. the safc will allow you to go a bit above this, but certainly not all the way up to 250kw. about 210kw, maybe 220kw, is the absolute max you will get even with the safc, if your tuner really knows what he is doing and everything else is in excellent condition.

other things you will have to take into consideration is that you may have spark issues once you get to that sort of power. it comes down to what sort of condition your coil packs and spark plugs are in. if you have good coils but bad plugs you will start to get a missfire, which is easy (and cheap) to fix. simply put in a new set of plugs. if it is the coils it is still simple to fix, but much more expensive.

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