Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

A RB25 powered GTS4 circuit car running a .82a/r R595 - I didn't really mention that because the car does circuit racing, not time attack but actual laps and laps of racing on stock bottom end and 98 octane so I wasn't really squeezing out it's full flow potential on the dyno... everything was done to ensure he could rely on it for laps on end.   It made ~295kw @ hubs on 98 octane at around 16psi, hitting target by around 4000rpm.

Another was an R545 with a .82a/r housing on a Honda F20B engine (2litre twin cam VTEC, a bit like a destroked H22A) in a Honda Accord.  That only had ~540cc injectors so was not making big power either, but was making good boost by 4000rpm - again another one I never got specific on because the turbo clearly had plenty of flow to spare, the power figure (just over 200kw @ hubs on ~10psi) wasn't going to do it justice.

1 hour ago, Lithium said:

A RB25 powered GTS4 circuit car running a .82a/r R595 - I didn't really mention that because the car does circuit racing, not time attack but actual laps and laps of racing on stock bottom end and 98 octane so I wasn't really squeezing out it's full flow potential on the dyno... everything was done to ensure he could rely on it for laps on end.   It made ~295kw @ hubs on 98 octane at around 16psi, hitting target by around 4000rpm.

Another was an R545 with a .82a/r housing on a Honda F20B engine (2litre twin cam VTEC, a bit like a destroked H22A) in a Honda Accord.  That only had ~540cc injectors so was not making big power either, but was making good boost by 4000rpm - again another one I never got specific on because the turbo clearly had plenty of flow to spare, the power figure (just over 200kw @ hubs on ~10psi) wasn't going to do it justice.

thanks for the reply mate.  i was looking at either the r595 or r545 for an unopened sr on 98 with around 18-20psi down its throat.  i like the 59/59 r595 wheel match a bit better than the 54/59 r545, but it would be fairly laggy id imagine.  

4 minutes ago, bj0rn said:

thanks for the reply mate.  i was looking at either the r595 or r545 for an unopened sr on 98 with around 18-20psi down its throat.  i like the 59/59 r595 wheel match a bit better than the 54/59 r545, but it would be fairly laggy id imagine.  

What power are you aiming for, with what fuel etc?  Stock cams?   One of the things I tune has been running a Kinugawa TD05-16G6 with the 3" intake (TD06 style compressor) for the last few years - completely stock internals (including cams), and flex fuel on up to 20psi. Honestly, it is an amazing match imho.    I know it's not a Masterpower, but it works so well I don't know why you'd go for something different - especially if you are running with an external gate.  The thing can hit 20psi+ at around 3000rpm in higher gears, and has trapped at around 120mph in the 1/4 mile - is pretty rapid.

Edited by Lithium

as above,  around 18-98 on pump 98 fuel.  unopened so yeah stock cams.  e85 is only available at a couple pumps in perth so im not really looking to go down that route.  my old car did 119-120mph passes id be pretty happy with that haha.  350rwhp would be nice,  so whats that around 280rwkw or there abouts?  makes 270rwhp on a disco pot at the moment and 110mph. and yes will be external gate. 

6 minutes ago, bj0rn said:

as above,  around 18-98 on pump 98 fuel.  unopened so yeah stock cams.  e85 is only available at a couple pumps in perth so im not really looking to go down that route.  my old car did 119-120mph passes id be pretty happy with that haha.  350rwhp would be nice,  so whats that around 280rwkw or there abouts?  makes 270rwhp on a disco pot at the moment and 110mph. and yes will be external gate. 

Hang on - you are running a discopotato on 20psi already?   

I'm kind of inclined to think that there probably isn't a huge amount of point in upgrading the turbo and running 18-20psi without doing cams, the cams are potentially the limiting factor in your setup at the moment I'd have thought.    280kw @ wheels on 20psi with pump gas on stock cams sounds pretty optimistic, regardless of what turbo you use.

I guess I haven't had HEAPS to do with SR20s, but they seem like they aren't that great on stock cams - at least from what I've seen so far a GT3076R would be a waste as you'd make well short of what they are capable of on 20psi but get heaps more lag.   For what it's worth, even with the 16G on 20psi the turbo seems to have more flow available

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...