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Hi guys, i'm thinking of putting an r32 actuator on my r33, so as to run around 10psi all day every day, without the need for an adjustable boost controller. The main reason I want to do this, is so that the engine bay remains stock looking and I can't be picked on by the police. My understanding is that the r32 actuator looks like the stock r33 item, anyone please let me know if this isn't the case.

I'm building the car up to be 100% legal. Is there anyway the r33 actuator can be modified to run 12psi? so as to remain 100% stock looking.

Right now I have the standard air box and snorkel, return pipe intercooler, and am having a -90bd 3 inch exhaust being built up. The plan later is to hi-flow the turbo and remap the standard ecu.

Any suggestions, please let me know what you think.

Cheers

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Yes, you gotta know how to bend it the right way.

Or just buy a HKS adjustable one, make sure any HKS markings are scrubbed off and maybe run some oil/dirt on it so it looks worn, easy done.

Fantastic. So it can be done!

I'm going to speak to my workshop about having this done. If anything, woudln't modifying the wastegate be a more reliable way of getting higher boost than a conventional boost controller? And also, it would look completely legal to boot!

I would imagine it would cost a lot more to have done than a boost controller, but none the less, I'm excited!

Yes that can be done. Just file the bolt wholes on the actuator bracket 5mms down, then pre-load the actuator about 4mms and you can adjust to get around 0.9Bar of boost reading on the gauge. We do that to all the high flowed turbos that we make.

Hey astro, r32 actuators are the shit. Im going for the same setup as you are, I'm running a turn-flow cooler, stock airbox, etc etc

After f**ing around for years with MBC's, the r32 actuator is a dream, chuck it in, 10psi all day long, no spike no bullshit. Happy days.

is it not true that an actuator set close to your target boost plus a (good) boost controller set to your target boost will give you more aggressive spool up, than an adjustable actuator alone?

Edited by Munkyb0y
is it not true that an actuator set close to your target boost plus a (good) boost controller set to your target boost will give you more aggressive spool up, than an adjustable actuator alone?

Good question, i'd be curious to know.

is it not true that an actuator set close to your target boost plus a (good) boost controller set to your target boost will give you more aggressive spool up, than an adjustable actuator alone?
Good question, i'd be curious to know.

Then again, it doesn't really matter, because I don't want to run a boost controller anyway lol.

is it not true that an actuator set close to your target boost plus a (good) boost controller set to your target boost will give you more aggressive spool up, than an adjustable actuator alone?

Totally subjective.

I've never run a fancy EBC.

Just a turbo and a $5 bleed value, never had a problem, my turbo's wastegates have never cracked before the point they should be (internal and external setups)

:ninja:

tony and i were discussing this a few weeks ago (which is probably why he posted this up). the way i see it is that the controller (set at a fraction above the actuator pressure) is delaying when the boost is getting to the actuator giving you a touch better spool up as the wastegate isn't starting to open as the boost is rising.

is it not true that an actuator set close to your target boost plus a (good) boost controller set to your target boost will give you more aggressive spool up, than an adjustable actuator alone?

Correctamundo. You guys have do what Nismoid just said and start using the right actuator for the boost your running. I can't tell you the problems you will solve and the solid control and spool you will have.

Totally subjective.

I've never run a fancy EBC.

Just a turbo and a $5 bleed value, never had a problem, my turbo's wastegates have never cracked before the point they should be (internal and external setups)

:)

well thats good news, because i'm planning on using the garrett adjustable actuator with a turbotech ball and spring type mbc for around 17-18psi.

theres only one problem. how the hell do you dial in the actuator and mbc on the dyno lol. thats gonna take longer than the tuning.

theres only one problem. how the hell do you dial in the actuator and mbc on the dyno lol. thats gonna take longer than the tuning.

Nah won't take long at all. Put 4mm of preload on the actuator before U go there and find out what boost it's running on the dyno. Adjust preload if necessary to get it on about 15-16psi then cut the boost line, chuck in the turbotech in and adjust to 18 or watever.

sounds like a plan.

how did you work out 4mm? from what i can tell its a 14psi actuator.

explain the 4mm preload (shorten the rod?) process please. step by step. assume i know nothing about adjusting actuators :mrt:

Edited by Munkyb0y

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