Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'd rather attempt to eat my own vomit than even be seen in a R33 4 door lol. They look like a Camry with a facelift :)

i don't think that i can agree with this statement. i think you are being offensive to camry's.

they are much better looking cars than r33 sedans.

could also try and save a bit more and look at buying/importing an autech s15.

been looking around to see what to get after i finish my s13 and have found some decently priced autechs in sydney. i must admit, though, some going around have been violated with some interesting mods.... who puts a turbo timer on an n/a? :)

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

ke70 corolla? If you keep an eye out you the random cheap sprinter comes from time to time. keep an eye out on nissansilvia.com cars are allways heaps cheaper on there.

panda

Edited by PandaR33

you can pick up ke70 corollas pretty cheap if you know where to look. looking on forums is the worse place to find a ke70, because that's where all the young people are trying to sell them and they know what they are worth. you need to find one being sold by an older person as they will sell them dirt cheap. there was a stock standard grandpa spec (so it was tidy) one for sale around the corner from me a few months back for $1500, still registered with RWC. if i had any money at the time i would've bought it.

I'd pick the 34 over the 33 due to being a bit fresher and nicer interior.

Other options if the NA Supra is out of the picture.

300zx (sure people are paying them out, Couple of mates here have had them (both NA), one stock, one lightly modified, neither have any problems and with a few subtle mods they look awesome.

S13/180. Stick with the handling mods.

Could be flamed here. but

Toyota MR2. (Don't see a lot these days but might be worth a look)

Honda with VTEC. (Very rice, very boy racer, Front wheel drive. But high revs)

Early/mid RX7, with NA rotary (lol i'm gonna get flamed bad)

  • 4 months later...

wow, interesting read guys. I've spent a while looking for a car for my bro who's on his red p's.

You might have to compromise on the rwd if you want a really fun car.

The best thing I've come up with is an mx6 (which no-one has mentioned?). The ms6 is light, 1200kg, with 123kW (good power to weight). They're set up pretty tight stock and you could pull it up to 160kW with clean air. A bodykit of any type will help out the shocking fish look. I drove one a few months ago with a bum gearbox, it was still fun and nippy, and the sound was surprisingly enjoyable. Get the 2.6L v6, do it up then leave ppl stunned when you disappear. And lets face it, fwd is a bit safer, so if you pick a car based solely on rwd even though there were other better options you'll hate yourself if you drift a bit far or swerve to avoid something and write it off.

The old impreza's have a really good power to weight ratio and awd which would be really fun.

Also Honda prelude's and integras are worth a look. These may all be fwd but a tight revvy fwd will feel amazing coming from a lancer (or whatever you're driving, cant remember lol). In the days of the integra type-r, i read a review comparing it to the evo and wrx sti. The outcome was the best drivers car was the integra, even though it had fwd it was so tight and responsive.

300zx NA will probably struggle with the 1700kg its lugging round

180sx NA are underpowered but can look so good

200sx expensive and tho the sr20 is a great engine is must struggle sometimes with the low capacity and no turbo

supra expensive but a mate of mine has made the air flow really clean and pulls the same kW as a stock r34 gtt, and regularly out drags them. which is upsetting cos i have an r34 gtt.

and finally the awd mitsubishi magna listed above would be worth a test drive too. with its power-to-weight ration on an NA v6 its potentially a good fun car, and a wolf in sheeps clothing (ie: cops won't notice it, unlike most of the other cars mentioned in this forum)

just my thoughts anyways

... ok i was wrong about the 200sx autech edition, but they're rare aren't they? like only 1000 ever made? saw 2 expensive (>20grand) ones on drive.com but if you find one grab it, that'd be good fun

otherwise the s15 NA is down to 126kW, which is still great in a 1200kg car, but expensive

2nd gen liberty gt-b would be 123kW for 1422kg

1st gen impreza 123kW for 1220kg

The bilstein setup would give improved handling, but both have the same engine power (and possible the same engine). That being said, minor changes to an engine can make all the difference, you'd have to drive them and see what you think. There are other things like drivability and how the car looks that might change your mind

Liberty is a much better car than the impreza, and its actually 100kg lighter than you quoted and the handling is superb. You can get about 100kW at all fours with light mods, they can be quite snappy and bonus of AWD.

http://www.redbook.com.au/used-cars/detail...id=127676BD2518

I've seen a fair few Autechs around, just gotta wait and snap one up, yeah they're priced similar to the turbo's, I've seen them around $15-20k But they get the 6 speed etc and with around 120kW at the rears + that weight, they'd be worth holding out for.

Edited by SKiT_R31

i just used the wiki weight, and upon revisiting saw the word "max" next to it.

That link is pretty cheap. If you can get something fun for 7grand or less you're laughing. That's why I suggested the mx6: buy an ok one for 5gs, spend another 3 or 4 and have a tight, light, fast car.

That autech's probably going to be the fastest you can get stock on your P's. 150kW is insane, actually its pretty similar to a NA supra but weighs 200kg less.

After you buy this you can look forward to the turbo decisions: do you go skyline or other, do you get an r34 gtt or an r32 gtr for your dollars, stock-ish or modified, daily drive/weekender/racer. good, fun, poor times

edit:

actually, what is the quickest (not cheapest or most fun) P plate legal car?

Edited by Galois

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I can confirm the TPS is at 100%.... I can confirm when we installed the TB and setup the cable that the TB was indeed fully open at max pedal travel.. the same 'curve' (WRT MAP vs MAP) existed with the previous setup/TB/manifold as well... No, we did not do a run with no intake connected. I would love to go back in time to do such a run to rule out the intake. It would have also been good to do a run with the airbox lid off. There's a test there where increased IAT vs more available air could be a positive tradeoff. I remember taking the lid off my R34 Turbo setup back in the day and noticing a monster increase, even if IAT's did go up. Could be similar. Hard to test unless I find a very deserted road. 
    • That's actually encouraging to be honest. my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 💪🏼 I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...
    • Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?
    • I'm having a problem. I think it was mentioned above somewhere but can't see it.  I'm stuck in the cycle of, sand, filler, low spot again, put filler, sand, low spot again, now i put filler again and a thicker portion which seems to have helped but I got low spots in other areas. In the image. Circled in red thats where the original low spot was and the shape is the same as the red out line. I've more or less fixed that (still low spot up the top but now I have low spots where the green circled part is.  Is likely the issue that I didn't start with a course sand paper? I sanded the filler with 240 to reduce the risk of not going to far but maybe the issue is that I'm only taking off enough material to remove some of the filler but not the high spots. I now started sanding with 120 and I think I'm seeing a difference. I did fix one dent the other 2 are f**ked and seems like I made another low spot which is indicated by the furthest green circle on the left handside. Any thoughts and solutions?   Also second image. All of these rock chips, can they be filled in with primer or do i need to fill them all with filler/putty? So many rock chips on mine lol.
    • Well, I had an Edward Lee's special edition odo windback car/motor with a RB25DET S2 and I put down 372kW with a good amount of track abuse for 1.5 years before the ring lands decided it didn't want to stick around anymore 🥲 But probably didn't help I kept on smashing try limiter on the track and a few skid pans.
×
×
  • Create New...