Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

trust one is not too bad value for money. just need to cut your sump and weld it on. comes with new pick-up too. they are simple but work well. just try not to smash it on a ripple strip!

that pic angle makes it look far worse than it is. judging by that pic it looks like the front diff is below the subframe!

they looks worse than they are in reality. I know of lots on circuit cars and can only think of one I know of that took a hit and was broken. and I know of a couple factory sumps that have been smashed so in that case you never know if a different sump would have survived the hit or not.

lol was that me that hit the trust sump richard? i pulled the sump plug out and cracked the case. all welded back up fine now.

any decent size sump is going to hand below the cross member.

ben we took std sumps down to tugga, but I don't understand why they dont allow sump extensions....its one of the few mods allowed in prod racing up here and fair enough as it is reliability only not performance

I have a trust sump extension as well.

Although it is a bit low, it's the depth and the pick up extension that make it effective. Most track cars in Japan use them and have proved that it is a reliable unit.

If the sump is too close to the ground then may be your r32 is too low...unless you have modified your suspension mounting points.

Edited by 9krpm

We added wings but kept the factory depth on mine so it's level with the x-member.... I haven't hit the track with slicks yet, do you guys think the depth is likely to be a problem? Holds somewhere between 7 and 8 litres from memory with one of the jap baffle kits.

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb146/h...pe/motorin3.jpg

our external oil pump kits are being CNC'd at the moment too...they will be nice. Teamed with the sump is the ultimate 'wet' set-up.

This will be good, where are you putting the pump and when will the kits be available? (no a/c or p/s to worry about). Hopefully I dont need a vipec to run it :D

well wings are ok, but they just give more room for the oil to move away from the pick-up. but with the right type of 1 way trap doors etc they can be made to work pretty well. some people do fall down though by just making sump bigger (wider) and thinking that will help). what you need is that narrow depth like the trust one to keep the oil around the pick-up, but of course you sacrifice clearance for it. ideally you would have a 2 foot long box section off the bottom of the sump that was only 10cm X 10cm with a hose running to the bottom of it as a pick-up! no oil surge ever but you would need to mount the engine about half way up the windscreen height..... could be a problem.

and yes it was yours I was thinking of dundan. just didn't want to name names.. :D

at least it was easily fixed. :P

how does the beaded seat cover you ordered make it fun to drive? I guess when you go into turn 1 a bit too quick and clench hard you might 'accidentally' suck one up the jacksie! nasty.

I have to say apart from that I am a bit excited to see fatz back in a GTR on the track. it's been a long time mate. plus you can actually drive half as good as you talk smack. should give a few people a fright...

how long since you first had your old GTR? must be 5 years now? bit more even?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
×
×
  • Create New...