Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 115
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

and that has what to do with this thread? :yes:

on a brighter note, bonnet has now been painted and currently sorting out the new bar to put indicator mounts in it, literally using the ones from the old bar. monday she will be all ready :) and tuesday have to take her to adelaide to get the graphics put back on, and her tune finished as well while im there.

The view over a valley of a tiny village with thatched(草盖的)roof cottages around a church; a drive through a narrow village street lines with thatched cottages painted pink or white; the sight in parts of England.Most people will agree that the thatched roof is an essential part of the attraction of the English countryside.

World of Warcraft power leveling,

  Thatching is in fact the oldest of all the building crafts practiced in the British Isles(英论诸岛). Although thatch has always been used for cottage and farm buildings, it was once used for castles and churches, too.  

  Thatching is a solitary(独自的)craft, which often runs in families. The craft of thatching as it is practiced toady has changed very little since the Middle Ages. Over 800 full-time thatchers are employed in England and Wales today, maintaining and renewing the old roofs as well as thatching newer houses. Manyproperty owners choose thatch not only for its beauty but because they know it will keep them cool in summer and warm in winter.

flyff power leveling,

  In fact, if we look at developing countries, over half the world lives under thatch, but they all do it in different ways. People in developing countries are often reluctant to go back to traditional materials and would prefer modern buildings. However, they may lack the money to allow them to import the necessary materials.2moons gold, Their temporary mud huts with thatched roofs of wild grasses often only last six months.Thatch which has been done the British way lasts from twenty to sixty years, and is an effective defiance against the heatThe researcher organized an experimental tournament(锦标赛)involving four youth teams. Each match lasted an hour, divided into three periods of 20 minutes during which different referees were in charge.

aoc gold,

Observers noted down the referees’ errors, of which there were 61 over the tournament. Converted to a standard match of 90 minutes, each referee made almost 23 mistakes, a remarkably high number.

The researcher then studied the videotapes to analyse the matches in detail. Surprisingly, he found that errors were more likely when the referees were close to the incident. When the officials got it right,2moons dil, they were, on average, 17 meters away from the action. The average distance in the case of errors was 12 meters. The research shows the optimum(最佳的)distance is about 20 meters.

There also seemed to be an optimum speed. Correct decisions came when the referees were moving at a speed of about 2 meters per second. The average speed for errors was 4 meters per second.

2moons gold,

If FIFA, football’s international ruling body,wants to improve the standard of refereeing at the next World Cup, it should encourage referees to keep their eyes on the action from a distance, rather than rushing to keep up with the ball, the researcher argues.

He also says that FIFA’s insistence that referees should retire at age 45 may be misguided. If keeping up with the action is not so important, their physical condition is less critical.

maple story power leveling,

Thatching is a solitarycraft,

wow, thanks for that!

does anyone else get an urge to kill when spammers post on here? i think they should just unplug the internet to africa for a few days to give everyone a bit of peace and quiet

yeah its annoying, so i left a comment on there page lol.

well the front bar is FINALLY painted and looking hawt as!

had to modify the bar a little bit to add indicator mounts , as it didnt come with any :)

this is the bar just going in the spray booth before painting :) will take more pics once its on the car which will be tomoro! :(

13092009542.jpg

wow a front bar that carmate actually have in stock lol, thats surprising. Reminds me or the URAS ones which stick out from the car. Not my cup of tea but still looking foward to seeing how it looks on your car.

hahahaha, this reminds me of a story my mate told me...

his front bumper had pretty much been destroyed, aircon fan destroyed, left headlight shattered, ... and aparently he hit a bird at 100km/h

my mates and i are convinced he either crashed his car and didnt want to man up and tell us he stacked it.... or he hit a pelican

Well here are pics with the graphics on, ive only just put the eyelids on so ill take some pics of them on aswell

also included are the side pics for you mad082 :D

16092009571.jpg

16092009572.jpg

16092009573.jpg

16092009574.jpg

16092009575.jpg

16092009576.jpg

:banana: not a fan of the mesh or the bar at all

well with no front mount... she has to put something there otherwise its just gonna be a big hole.

So mesh is the next best thing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...