Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If i was over reading the play i'd be saying that you said Tomei pumps are shit and you shouldn't buy them, being you've also kill one :D

They are not shit, there is only select evidence here and there, perhaps as paul said the material has changed, who knows what goes on in a manufacturing plant during tougher times.

Dude I dont know where you get your info But i reccomend you find a new source. The current one is making you look like an asshat.

The only oil pump I have ever purchased and or owned other than the original stocker is a Jun. This pump has survived 2 engine failures. One when the clutch ripped the engine and drivetrain apart and the other when I shat a turbo through the engine.

The oil pump has been apart and inspected and crack tested on both occasions and is now happily singing away on track duty at over 500 rwhp.

Dude I dont know where you get your info But i reccomend you find a new source. The current one is making you look like an asshat.

The only oil pump I have ever purchased and or owned other than the original stocker is a Jun. This pump has survived 2 engine failures. One when the cluth ripped the engine and drivetrain apart and the other when I shat a turbo through the engine.

The oil pump has been apart and inspected and crack tested on both occasions and is now happily singing away on track duty at over 500 rwhp.

that post did 2 things...made me lol and then gave me a warm fuzzy feeling that my JUN pump may live longer than i expect it too. Nice one Fox.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Dude I dont know where you get your info But i reccomend you find a new source. The current one is making you look like an asshat.

The only oil pump I have ever purchased and or owned other than the original stocker is a Jun. This pump has survived 2 engine failures. One when the cluth ripped the engine and drivetrain apart and the other when I shat a turbo through the engine.

The oil pump has been apart and inspected and crack tested on both occasions and is now happily singing away on track duty at over 500 rwhp.

Well i just went by your post

Check out the price of the Jun pump while you're at it. A fair bit less than the tomei item and I have broken about everything except the Jun oil pump to date. :D

Can be read in many ways :P

Just keeping it real Paul. I have the utmost respect for most things Jun. That oil pump and a set of Jun pistons were among the few survivors of that clutch debacle.

I would gladly reuse those slugs if i could find a tight enough block. They are standard bore and its tuff to find a block that will give us the correct piston to wall clearance.

Subsequent research led to Cosworth being the actual manufacturer of said pistons. Speaks plenty for Jun that they chose such a well respected outfit to outsource from.

Ash returns serve very close to the baseline but manages to keep the ball in play

hehe... the fact im working graveyards isn't helping... im seeing shit i probably wouldn't normally :P

Point taken, I was referring to engine components in general. As for the Jun pump it is one of the few survivors.

Ah i see, that is indeed good news then! Least it's clear for everyone (if anyone has been silly enough to be awake for nearly 24hrs like me) :D

yeah I read that the same as Ash... but I have no excuse hehe

I've had N1 pumps on a couple of engines that I've destroyed, pump was never at fault though... that said recently I've found myself short shifting at 8K to be careful I don't nudge the limiter

anyway that's hard luck Rezlo, sounds like its a killer setup, would be a wild ride... I would be checking that bottom end really carefully, fingers crossed for you

hehe... the fact im working graveyards isn't helping... im seeing shit i probably wouldn't normally :P

Ah i see, that is indeed good news then! Least it's clear for everyone (if anyone has been silly enough to be awake for nearly 24hrs like me) :D

some people pay good money to see sh1t that ain't there and stay awake for days...lol...you however are making money from doing it so don't be a sook.

And as for you dirt man, Get your stick out of our pot. Go brew up your own concoction to stir.

you can bitch slap me next week when i come up to sunny QLD

Edited by DiRTgarage

my advice is buy some reimax gears for the pump you have. should be cheaper than any of the other options listed and they are good. very good. they have the runs on the board as far as I'm concerned..

http://www.reimax.com/pages/products/lower-area/index.html

some people pay good money to see sh1t that ain't there and stay awake for days...lol...you however are making money from doing it so don't be a sook.

you can bitch slap me next week when i come up to sunny QLD

I hear a rumor you were going to be at the bank tomorrow night.... Not true??

my advice is buy some reimax gears for the pump you have. should be cheaper than any of the other options listed and they are good. very good. they have the runs on the board as far as I'm concerned..

http://www.reimax.com/pages/products/lower-area/index.html

I like this idea.

Have a chat to Powertune in NSW about their RB26 oil pump gear sets. Made out of somethin crazy like P20 tool steel or somethin and the same size as a JUN gear set and they can machine the stock housing to suit.

I had an N1 pump fail <2000km old

Had new gears machine, apparently by Powertune - fingers crossed

Brisbane VL guru's JW Auto are producing an external kit we are helping them design. After problems getting the last supplier to move on these JW is keen to produce a bolt on kit for us. These kits will unfortunately for some require the removal of air-con but will utilise a modified STD pump housing making them a truely 'bolt on' kit. Very easy for someone with basic mechanical skills to install and will come with ATI balancer, modified pump housing, Peterson single stage pump, CNC'd adjustable pump bracket, Gilmer drive pulley's, anodised fittings and braided lines. They wont be cheap but they will be the best 'wet' sump set-up for RB's.

Once JW provide a sample kit for us we will make them available for limited release via a group buy.

listen to paul (dirtgarage) - i spoke to my tuner about this exact subject & it was simply explained it to me like this:

"the n1 pump has a sintered steel gear which is more likely to shatter under load whereas the nitto pump has a billet gear which literally has chewed up bits of a cast iron block in a recent engine failure"...need i say anymore :banana:

I called Powertune and they dont know about/sell these gears?

who did you speak to? and rough cost?

Thanks

Speak to Dan at ERD (SAU user elite32) - he is manufacturing the same gears now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...