Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well....why did the pump you see die? I am yet to be convinced there is some basic issue with n1 oil pumps.

they get used in lots (most?) builds?

those motors get treated very hard (otherwise why did the owner spend 5-15K to build it?)

anything goes wrong in the bottom end...first place a bit goes to is the tight clearance oil pump. put any shit through it and it breaks.

once the pump breakes due to the other problem the whole motor dies very soon after.

first thing you find when you pull a motor apart is a broken oil pump.

bottom line is....finding the *real* reason a motor dies is very very complex. oil pumps do not often die on their own but they are very often the first symptom of the real problem

It's usually always the same story......

No aftermarket harmonic balancer and/or rev limiter pump shock. This pump died from both at launch......broken inner gear.

Edited by JD74
as long as you dont smash the limiter you will be fine

heres one with gears broken

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/104505-n1-oil-pump-tomei.html

have a look around on the site you'll find more, and race pace had a couple break gears due to limiter bashing

i only got the tomei one cause im paranoid and a dry sump setup for me is over kill

just read that thread in the uk, it had only done 625km and looks like it had other issues that caused the failure.

been limiter bashing(7500) mine for three years now, hope it holds out for another three.

that....or you could give them a call and ask? 02 9648 4264

JD74 - as per duncans post & my original suggestion a lot earlier in the piece...pick up the phone & call the above number.

reason not many people know about this pump is because it is tried & proven, simple as that.

who cares if it was even made in india or vietnam at the end of the day, it is a great pump :)

if it can chew through bits of cast block that should compel you right?

My N1 pump has eaten something (scoring on the gears, probably left over thrust washer ;)) and not broken. Not happy with the wear on the drive face though. Personally I think it's a clearance issue as to why they break, aswell as others. If you look through that linked thread you'll find that the guy that broke the Jun pump was also using a beat up stock balancer.. poor drive clearances and shitty balancer = broken pump? seems like we're going over the same ground again..

JD74 - why dont you do the smart thing?

ring/email CRD and fken ask rather than harp on like a child?

Well, because up untill now NO ONE seemed to even know where they came from......even after I asked a few times.

Harp on like a child ? gimme a break.

I saw user CRD reading this thread and STILL not jumping in. What gives ?

Is CRD really NITTO ? Are NITTO parts really 'Jun Jobber Parts' that are resold under the NITTO brand ? .....sure looks that way to me.

HHmm....people are 'sourcing pumps through CRD'.....

I still can't get a straight answer and what's even more funny, the people that purchased these pumps don't even know for sure.

People are quick to jump to their...ehem...'THEIR' defence, when in reality......noone even knows who THEY are.

Thanks for the info......and thanks for calling me a child.

And the Google comment ? IT'S THE 21ST CENTURY. IF YOU CAN NOT BE FOUND ON GOOGLE, THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG.

I'm done.

Well, because up untill now NO ONE seemed to even know where they came from......even after I asked a few times.

Harp on like a child ? gimme a break.

I saw user CRD reading this thread and STILL not jumping in. What gives ?

Is CRD really NITTO ? Are NITTO parts really 'Jun Jobber Parts' that are resold under the NITTO brand ? .....sure looks that way to me.

HHmm....people are 'sourcing pumps through CRD'.....

I still can't get a straight answer and what's even more funny, the people that purchased these pumps don't even know for sure.

People are quick to jump to their...ehem...'THEIR' defence, when in reality......noone even knows who THEY are.

Thanks for the info......and thanks for calling me a child.

And the Google comment ? IT'S THE 21ST CENTURY. IF YOU CAN NOT BE FOUND ON GOOGLE, THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG.

I'm done.

Hey mate I feel your pain! Sometimes it can be like getting blood out of a stone...

FWIW

According to Godzilla Motorsport Nitto (Nitto Performance Engineering) is Croydon Racing Developments (CRD) own brand

found that with GOOGLE :D

Hey mate I feel your pain! Sometimes it can be like getting blood out of a stone...

FWIW

According to Godzilla Motorsport Nitto (Nitto Performance Engineering) is Croydon Racing Developments (CRD) own brand

found that with GOOGLE :P

Thanks man....... Your Google-Fu is stronger than mine ;)

I'm buying a Reimax anyways.....because it takes more than an upgraded Gear and a Jun Pump Housing to get my money.

  • 2 weeks later...

Ive just spent a few hours reading every bit of this post and it was extremly informative

Problem was I was chasing info and opinions on the Reimax complete oil pump (not just the gears) and as soon as someone mentioned it ....... no more posts, what a crack up, I pissed myself laughing

Anyway what do people think? http://www.reimax.co.jp/pages/products/lower-area/index.html

The company certinly has the credentials

http://ganesh-cf.livejournal.com/16558.html

3791064180_9876a9eb57.jpg

Edited by lcgtr
Ive just spent a few hours reading every bit of this post and it was extremly informative

Problem was I was chasing info and opinions on the Reimax complete oil pump (not just the gears) and as soon as someone mentioned it ....... no more posts, what a crack up, I pissed myself laughing

Anyway what do people think? http://www.reimax.co.jp/pages/products/lower-area/index.html

The company certinly has the credentials

http://ganesh-cf.livejournal.com/16558.html

3791064180_9876a9eb57.jpg

i see your Reimax and raise you a newly released Nitto pump with billet rear cover for added strength.

RB_OIL_PUMP_v2.pdf

i see your Reimax and raise you a newly released Nitto pump with billet rear cover for added strength.

billet rear cover u say paul, so a full billet housing must be pretty good then huh? :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
×
×
  • Create New...