Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey im about to purchase some sway bars ( r33 gtst )and was wondering what size would be for everyday driving and occasional track days?

i was thinking 24 mm front and 22mm back (whiteline)

would this be ok?

do all bushes come with whiteline sways or they need to be purchased separate?

i have searched but couldnt find anything on sizes :D

Edited by 08r3308
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284439-swaybars/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i have just fitted 24mm adjustable front and 24mm adjustable rear to my R32 skyline and they are excellent.

biggest you can get from whiteline for the 32 - well worth the money and effort to put them in

not too stiff - perfect balance for street to match the bilstein shocks and whiteline springs i had previously fitted

Edited by shaunr34gtt
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284439-swaybars/#findComment-4781410
Share on other sites

I just chucked some onto the car on the weekend. BNF24X Front and BNR11X on the rear. So should be a 27mm front and 22mm rear. (these are the ones Sydneykid recomendded from his group buy). I'll let you know how they go, havnt driven the car yet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284439-swaybars/#findComment-4784867
Share on other sites

Ok i quickly went for a drive, very impressed however now i dont really know the limit of the car. Will have to take it up the mountain tomorrow to get used to the new setup. While driving straight there are no downsides, if anything the car feels more solid and together. When going into a turn the car is just flat, incredibly flat. There is no sign of roll and its a bit weird to describe, you can't feel when the car is going to let go it just holds and you plant your foot and it just keeps holding until finally it starts to understeer (Bloody front heavy skylines!). Ill play around with the dampening tomorow night and take it for a good spin. Might get a wheel allignment aswell to make sure everything is in order since these and the HICAS lock bar install.

So far very happy :D

Edited by PM-R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284439-swaybars/#findComment-4786122
Share on other sites

I thought you had it wrong PM-R33. But it looks like you're right. its 27mm.

from Whiteline site:

F Swaybar 24mm-h/duty Blade adjustable BNF24Z

F Swaybar 24mm-heavy duty BNF24

F Swaybar 27mm-X heavy duty BNF24X

Which is weird, coz that part number on the SK group buy was a 24mm.

post-29392-1251110239_thumb.jpg

Now i'm curious. Were the group buy front bars 24mm or 27mm?

Edited by Munkyb0y
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284439-swaybars/#findComment-4786148
Share on other sites

Well in the Stagea suspension thread Sydneykid took pics of the boxes and they definetely said BNF24X so i'd assume he ment the 27mm ones and maybe just got mistaken calling them 24mm because there was a 24 in the part number. Maybe he can comment.

Is there such a thing as having too thick of a swaybar?

Edited by PM-R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284439-swaybars/#findComment-4786327
Share on other sites

I think the stocks might be 20?

im sure ive got Whiteline 24mm front and back, have to check, but the front still has a tiny little bit of body roll but certainly no understeer like PM-R33 describes, i just get grip grip grip oversteer weeeeeeeeeee.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284439-swaybars/#findComment-4787289
Share on other sites

It might have just been the sharp corner i took or something on the wheel allignment might be out since i fitted the HICAS bar. I'll get the toe on the car checked while getting an allignment and ill have a proper play tonight :)

Edited by PM-R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284439-swaybars/#findComment-4787424
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...