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Is it better to block it off at the base of the intake hose or at the end of the recirculation pipe?

and if the recirculation pipe is the way to go were should i Mount/hide/place it so it dosnt look in the way or stupid?

cheers :D

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Step 1, undo rubber recirc pipe and remove from BOV.

Step 2, insert plastic softdrink bottle lid

Step 3, reconnect rubber recirc pipe to BOV.

Or if you don't like that, remove the BOV, trace and cut out a piece of sheet tin, reinstall BOV with sheet tin sandwiched underneath it.

Both methods look factory and undetectable without tools.

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If I were to cut out a metal 'gasket' like you described Luke, but then drilled a few small holes in it, would that essentially allow for flutter at low RPM, but it would still dump properly when boosting? I remember being told this by several people, and saw it on the net somewhere ages ago but can't for the life of me find any information about it now.

Quite keen to do this actually.

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If I were to cut out a metal 'gasket' like you described Luke, but then drilled a few small holes in it, would that essentially allow for flutter at low RPM, but it would still dump properly when boosting? I remember being told this by several people, and saw it on the net somewhere ages ago but can't for the life of me find any information about it now.

Quite keen to do this actually.

No, you're essentially disabling the BOV by doing there, there's no way for air to be released from the cross over pipe back into the intake side of the turbo.

If you want that low RPM flutter but still a BOV that works, go get an aftermarket plumb back bov and tighten it till it flutters at low rpm but still releases pressure at higher rpms.

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Ive searched heaps but am still unsure/confused,

Can someone please clarify for me the pros/ cons of blocking that tiny little 5mm hole with a flush screw on the inside base of the stock r33 (rb25det) BOV

Thanks :)

That hole is there to aid smooth transition from boost to vaccum and vice versa. i.e. smoother transition between acceleration and deceliration. When blocked, the transition is a bit harsher.

Thanks for the info guys... is there a way of modifying the stock BOV spring to increase tension? Yes I'm being incredibly tight-arsed hahah

I've heard of people squashing the top of the BOV to increase the resitance of the spring.....but it's far from perfect.

The piece of material (more commonly steel or alloy) cut to shape and sandwiched bewteen the BOV and the intake pipe flange would be the most suitable and most effective sollution. blocking it fully will cause deceleration/idle issues with any AFM engine..........of which the RB is one.

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I tore up a beer can and stuck a piece under the BOV on mine with a bit of gasket goo, easy done.

Best way to block the stock BOV imo... beer can, coke can whatever you like... trace it out then cut it out with scissors and a hole punch and bolt it back up. perfect.

I wouldn't bother with the holes in it though. have the BOV or don't have it.

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Thanks for the info guys... is there a way of modifying the stock BOV spring to increase tension? Yes I'm being incredibly tight-arsed hahah
That hole is there to aid smooth transition from boost to vaccum and vice versa. i.e. smoother transition between acceleration and deceliration. When blocked, the transition is a bit harsher.

I've heard of people squashing the top of the BOV to increase the resitance of the spring.....but it's far from perfect.

The piece of material (more commonly steel or alloy) cut to shape and sandwiched bewteen the BOV and the intake pipe flange would be the most suitable and most effective sollution. blocking it fully will cause deceleration/idle issues with any AFM engine..........of which the RB is one.

*sheepishly puts up hand

i did that. combined with putting a screw into the hole that jase also mentioned you got a bit of a flutter when lifting off from light throttle. but it was only like half a flutter. it was sort of a FFFT FFFT FSSSSSHH. so it fluttered once or twice then just dumped as normal. if you do decide to squash it in, you sit a socket on it (i think about a 21mm is about the right size) and then give it a few gentle yet firm hits. be warned that you can squash it too much. it is best to measure the height of the hat before you start so that after each hit you know how much you have squashed it. you only need to squash it a few mm.

other than that, if you want the full hektic flutters then you need to go aftermarket bov.

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The best way as said is to stick a gasket of whatever coke can in between and you can leave the other hoses running on it to make it look stock, stalling wont be to bad just the only problem is if u for example take off in gear one den dont shift and dump the clutch itll stall but adjusting driving style can elimnate the stalling or raise your idle by a couple of 100 revs

Mine has never stalled with the BOV blocked off.

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The best way as said is to stick a gasket of whatever coke can in between and you can leave the other hoses running on it to make it look stock, stalling wont be to bad just the only problem is if u for example take off in gear one den dont shift and dump the clutch itll stall but adjusting driving style can elimnate the stalling or raise your idle by a couple of 100 revs

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Thanks for the info guys... is there a way of modifying the stock BOV spring to increase tension? Yes I'm being incredibly tight-arsed hahah

I have one of these, i squashed it in the vice and concaved he top in. Flutters on light throttle back off. I got sick of it and took it off. I'm willing to give it you for the price of postage :P :P PM me if you want it

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