Jump to content
SAU Community

Powerfc + A-lsd in R33

Moanie

By Moanie,
in Drivetrain and transmission

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 158
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...
ben333 Explorer

ben333

Posted
Posted

ok just bringing up an old thread here i think...

Fitted powerfc to my r33 gtst with a-lsd, and surprise surprise, a-lsd light is on all the time, like theres a fault. the hydralic pump that runs when the computer starts dosent seem to run as long as it did on the standard computer. also my check engine light is on all the time.......

any suggestions?

anyone want to buy a powerfc (suit r33 WITHOUT a-lsd)???

Link to comment
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

hi ben and others

i dont believe its a simple signal as mine works all the time and very rarely have a-lsd fail. the last time i saw a-lsd fail in my car with powerfc was probably a month ago. the longer ive had the powerfc the less and less frequent its been failing. normally if i bag it up i get wheelspin, slip light comes on, the power gets split to both wheels and all is good. when it failed (a-lsd light comes on) and u bag it up the system doesnt activate and u are in single spinner mode. whats the problem you have ben? does it fail instantly and never works at all (a-lsd light on always) or only fails randomly? when its working normally and u bag it up does slip come and and power gets split correctly? i think you may have the same problem as moanie and a few others, as soon as you bag it up instant fail and it never works again until you power off the car. so effectively it doesnt work at all. in mine it works fine, but does fail occasionally

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ben333 Explorer

ben333

Posted
Posted

ok the problem i had was that as soon as i plugged the powerfc in, and started the engine for the first time, the a-lsd light and check engine light were on constantly. i started it this morning and the a-lsd light took about 30 seconds to come on, although the check engine light was on. drive around - only one wheel spins when slippage. swapped back to original ecu and no problems with anything. suggestions?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted
ok the problem i had was that as soon as i plugged the powerfc in, and started the engine for the first time, the a-lsd light and check engine light were on constantly. i started it this morning and the a-lsd light took about 30 seconds to come on, although the check engine light was on. drive around - only one wheel spins when slippage. swapped back to original ecu and no problems with anything. suggestions?

hi ben

hmm thats not the problem i have. mine is fine and doesnt come on when i start the car and stuff. mine only fails randomly and mine slips ok most times too. have you made sure boost controller is set to off, as this will make the engine check light come on. what sensor values and ones switched on do you see under sensor check ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Moanie Grand Master

Moanie

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i think you may have the same problem as moanie and a few others, as soon as you bag it up instant fail and it never works again until you power off the car. so effectively it doesnt work at all. in mine it works fine, but does fail occasionally

yeapp!!! thats exactly the prob i have :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 3 months later...
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

i have datalogit on the way for my powerfc in the next week. i will do some datalogit and then try and log when the a-lsd fails and see if any of the sensor values change when it dies, may narrow down what makes it fail. long shot but worth a try

Link to comment
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

after some investigation i have found my cars voltage is off the scale and its too high., im seeing 15 volts all the time. so im getting this looked at this weke. could be one of the reasons its failing randomly

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

ok my car is at the mechanics having the alternator replaced. the average voltage i am seeing day in day out is approx 15.2 under normal conditions, it has been like this for over a year now as i thought it wasnt an issue, only recently learned the alternator is dead and overcharging. ive found that driving around with the headlights on keeps the voltage at approx 14.8 and when this happens the a-lsd never fails (a-lsd light never comes on) and it works fine.

so i believe that my a-lsd failures are related to the voltage being too much and it triggers something off in the abs/alsd system. i think somehow the stock ecu deals with higher voltage better than the powerfc and it doesnt have issues. i also found out that the a-lsd system gets is signal from the abs computer and it uses these signals to detect traction loss, based on how fast the wheels are spinning and vehicle speed to decide if "traction is lost", again this is only a concept, certainlty not proof

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
cd04 Contributor

cd04

Posted
Posted

Sorry if this is going off in a tangent but,...

I have an A-LSD optioed R33, so what are my ECU upgrade options if the PFC does not support A-LSD?

Also, does the A-LSD not work with a PFC, or does the system work fine even thought the light is on?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • funkymonkey
      forum.r31skylineclub.com down or gone?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      According to @acsplit apparently the forum is being migrated from one server to another so should be back up and running once the migration is done.
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I thought I would share a few fun facts about Haltech products that I've learnt with their use that they don't share on their website. Haltech GPS speed - Extremely slow to react. It's fine for puttering around but I have no idea what speed I'm driving when in WOT due to the slow response time. This was always going to be temporary as I need mechanical wheel speed for eventual torque management, but it has just been bumped up a priority or two as it's a nuisance.  Haltech I/O Expander - You often hear the response time is slow due to canbus comms, but I could not find concrete evidence and Haltech makes no mention of it. We'll now I have it. I mentioned in an earlier post that I thought my WMI mechanical pressure switch was causing a delayed response from my AEM WMI Controller to my ECU. My WMI begins to operate at 11psi, but my ECU was only getting an "On" signal around 19psi. After removing the pressure switch, there was no change. Luckily I connected my WMI Controller directly to the ECU the morning of my Dyno tune and there was a large improvement. I get the "On" signal around 13-14psi now. These remote IO boxes should be marketed for only non-critical I/O.  
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Yet another clutch question

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Best option. A cheaper option is a Xtreme Twin Plate, Organic Sprung Centre
    • GTSBoy
      Yet another clutch question

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      8HP conversion.
    • joshuaho96
      Yet another clutch question

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Transmission synchros feel pretty bad at this point in my car and sometimes the clutch feels like it has an inconsistent engagement point in the pedal travel. I figure if I'm going to swap in a new transmission I may as well also put in a new clutch. Obvious candidates are ATS's pull-type twin plate carbon clutch, Nismo Super Coppermix Twin, or some organic clutch option I haven't figured out yet. I have searched this stuff to death at this point and still don't feel all that confident in making a decision. Target power is not much. ~330 kW at the wheels max. I ballpark the torque spec at 600 N-m. The stock clutch feels a little light so a little heavier is ok but I would say no more than 15-20% additional pedal effort. For some reason most clutch manufacturers want to keep this stuff a secret but the Coppermix Twin is 950 kg clamp load so I figure it can't be too much heavier than stock. The hang-up I have is some people mentioning that the clutch is very grabby which sounds like a pain. The stock clutch is almost too easy to modulate so I don't mind if it requires more precision than that but I don't want to deal with something that feels like I'm getting rear-ended at every traffic light. Also I see some mention of the release bearing carrier sizing requiring some work which sounds like something that might complicate installation? It would be good to know exactly what is needed here for a 1995 R33 GTR. The ATS clutch is supposedly the best but I've seen some complaints that they wear out easily and also slip when cold. I don't know how much of that is true but the cost is also huge compared to even the Nismo Coppermix twin plate. It's also unsprung which normally I would reject immediately but supposedly carbon clutches don't need it. The higher clamp load at 1300 kg is also a little concerning but to me more clamp load seems like it inevitably means more pedal effort and also more strain on the engine crank thrust bearings.  This is a street car and despite being a weekend car I seem to spend a lot of time crawling in severe traffic congestion with it anyways so I will gladly pay to have something that is easy to drive on and will hold the power with no unexpected headaches. I really don't want to do a clutch twice.
×
×
  • Create New...