Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wanting to install a Water/Methanol Injection kit on my RB26 for the purposes of primarily reducing knock.

Only problem is I cant find any decent tuners here in Melbourne who supply a good kit and install/tune the setup.

Can anyone recommend a place?

ask trent at status tuning?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285375-watermethanol-injection/
Share on other sites

Just wanting to install a Water/Methanol Injection kit on my RB26 for the purposes of primarily reducing knock.

Only problem is I cant find any decent tuners here in Melbourne who supply a good kit and install/tune the setup.

Can anyone recommend a place?

Not in Aus. but isnt BP Ulitimate 98???

In that case you should get a proper tune done instead of trying to reduce your knock levels by using water/meth injection.

Jst wanna say something about bp ultimate, it seems to be inconsistant in its quality as ive filled up twice now with it; the first time it performed well just like v-power that i had my car tuned on.

This second time, about a week ago i filled up with bp and the knocks are going up; not many by about 6-8 at 5000rpm or so

dont know anything about where the fuel comes from or wanna bad mouth anyone but jst giving my experience...im gonna buy a tank of race fuel from autobarn 20litres for 70bux and dilute the tank just to be safe.

-Johnny

it would be reasonable to expect some levels of variance in fuel octane

this would be regardless of what you buy, where you buy it from, and the brand etc

98 fuel is as you would expect, 98 fuel, sure there will be an occasional shit batch here and there

but i think some people really "lock" into a specific brand of 98, its just fuel ?

a knock of 6 to 8 is nothing

if your car is tuned properly it should knock consistently if you follow the oldschool "advance timing till it pings, then back off 2 deg"

so any variance in fuel, air temp etc is nothing to worry about

WMI comes up a fair bit, and a few of us are using it or intend using it, wondering if it wouldn't be a good idea to have a permanent thread on it????

Might answer a few questions before they are asked.

In that case you should get a proper tune done instead of trying to reduce your knock levels by using water/meth injection.

my thoughts too, but i dont know the exact setup. Cat asked me a similar question earlier today so i presume R33-RB26DETT it was from you. Feel free to pm or email me your full setup and car usage.

it would be reasonable to expect some levels of variance in fuel octane

this would be regardless of what you buy, where you buy it from, and the brand etc

98 fuel is as you would expect, 98 fuel, sure there will be an occasional shit batch here and there

but i think some people really "lock" into a specific brand of 98, its just fuel ?

a knock of 6 to 8 is nothing

if your car is tuned properly it should knock consistently if you follow the oldschool "advance timing till it pings, then back off 2 deg"

so any variance in fuel, air temp etc is nothing to worry about

Thankyou paul, i did read your excellent faq for power fc.

My car was tuned very safely so the 6-8 knock aint gonna hurt anything, im jst one of those paranoid guys who goes overboard with his pride n joy.

Ive jst done a little test with octane booster which ill post in the FI section, see what people make of it.

I don't use anything but BP U98, has never burnt me. It's is refined over here in WA and I think you'll find that most of the other 98's are lesser grade fuels from BP with different additives (there was a big thread in the WA section about it). Shell might be a different story.

I don't see a problem with the guy wanting to run it to be a bit more safer. I've been thinking of doing the same thing when I track the car next year. The intake temp differences around the year we get up here are quite broad. During a summer day on a track i know i would want every precaution method taken.

I don't see a problem with the guy wanting to run it to be a bit more safer. I've been thinking of doing the same thing when I track the car next year. The intake temp differences around the year we get up here are quite broad. During a summer day on a track i know i would want every precaution method taken.

Absolutely, your the type of person who takes care of his car n dosent want to take a risk even if the protection helps 5% n cost a few dollars....rather than the cheap bastards saying "it'll be right, she'll be right." your wasting your money; the bare minumum approach lolz

methanol injection for the track, nitrous for drag strip, dilution of race fuel or octane booster on a hot day etc

Im even thinking of meth injection in the future as long as the system is reliable.

BTW check out da thread i made on octane booster which i tested

Absolutely, your the type of person who takes care of his car n dosent want to take a risk even if the protection helps 5% n cost a few dollars....rather than the cheap bastards saying "it'll be right, she'll be right." your wasting your money; the bare minumum approach lolz

methanol injection for the track, nitrous for drag strip, dilution of race fuel or octane booster on a hot day etc

Im even thinking of meth injection in the future as long as the system is reliable.

BTW check out da thread i made on octane booster which i tested

I've been battling with this for some time now....

I am planning to get a pair of Garrett -9 which is the no. one priority at the moment, so money will be tied up there for sure!

My main prob is that i only have at best 95 available and i get knock with the stock ecu@12psi(not sure if 26 ecu has a low octane map), so its a toss up wether to get the water/meth and run it on the stock ecu or buy a pfc and get it tuned to suit the 95, running the -9s

Like u, i just want to be safe, hence the reason of changing the turbos in the first place! Not really aiming for huge rwkw numbers.

Ive done quite a bit of research on water/meth and its seems to be a definitely good "protection" measure especially in your case, as u would have less risk involved because u have the 98 to fall back on in case anything goes wrong with the system, ie. given that u don't tune extremly aggressive (lean mixtures and advanced timing).

Once u can afford it......give it a go :laugh:

I've been battling with this for some time now....

I am planning to get a pair of Garrett -9 which is the no. one priority at the moment, so money will be tied up there for sure!

My main prob is that i only have at best 95 available and i get knock with the stock ecu@12psi(not sure if 26 ecu has a low octane map), so its a toss up wether to get the water/meth and run it on the stock ecu or buy a pfc and get it tuned to suit the 95, running the -9s

Like u, i just want to be safe, hence the reason of changing the turbos in the first place! Not really aiming for huge rwkw numbers.

Ive done quite a bit of research on water/meth and its seems to be a definitely good "protection" measure especially in your case, as u would have less risk involved because u have the 98 to fall back on in case anything goes wrong with the system, ie. given that u don't tune extremly aggressive (lean mixtures and advanced timing).

Once u can afford it......give it a go :P

I wish you all the best with your car mate, im treatign my car very well right now cos of those stocker ceramic turbos and will, like you be doing a -9 swap soon; not chasing big numbers (anything over 270awkw is good for me)

I hope you checked out my octane booster thread but it seems a good idea is to tune your car for 95oct on the power fc and buy some race fuel for a mix (like 30-50% ratio to pump fuel)

For WMI, i jst dont like an extra system which can fail if you know what i mean (pump failure, fogger failure, tank running dry etc) all these things bug me n i jst want a nice easy fix like the race fuel mix.

Im tryna find out whether you need a liscence to buy it, maybe give some thought to that idea?

ill of coase update you on anything i find out, n every1 else who likes to add safety to their cars.

cheers mate

-Johnny

I checked out that whole additive thing before i settled on the water/meth concept.

Toluene was my first option but just worked out to be far too expensive in the long run... so i could just imagine the cost of race fuel!!!

Well if every thing works out i'll be installing a Coolingmist kit next month, so i'll let u know how it goes.

I checked out that whole additive thing before i settled on the water/meth concept.

Toluene was my first option but just worked out to be far too expensive in the long run... so i could just imagine the cost of race fuel!!!

Well if every thing works out i'll be installing a Coolingmist kit next month, so i'll let u know how it goes.

lolz yeah the toulene mix was in my head before but had a few doubts about it eating away at fuel lines n other engine components due to me driving my car once a week (if that)

love to hear about your WMI, please post a thread up on it n maybe you might jst sway me in that direction.

Ive injected meth before, worked nicely.....whoops but thats a different story lolz

I've been battling with this for some time now....

I am planning to get a pair of Garrett -9 which is the no. one priority at the moment, so money will be tied up there for sure!

My main prob is that i only have at best 95 available and i get knock with the stock ecu@12psi(not sure if 26 ecu has a low octane map), so its a toss up wether to get the water/meth and run it on the stock ecu or buy a pfc and get it tuned to suit the 95, running the -9s

Like u, i just want to be safe, hence the reason of changing the turbos in the first place! Not really aiming for huge rwkw numbers.

Ive done quite a bit of research on water/meth and its seems to be a definitely good "protection" measure especially in your case, as u would have less risk involved because u have the 98 to fall back on in case anything goes wrong with the system, ie. given that u don't tune extremly aggressive (lean mixtures and advanced timing).

Once u can afford it......give it a go :P

in your type of cases where fuel is a given issue (ie inconsistent) i would strongly reccomend running a remap of the std ecu, we have a few running high 300kw's on them without issues and the benefit is if you do get a batch of crap fuel the knock map will go a long way to saving your ass.

The main usage (but not always) for water meth is actually to get MORE agressive with the tuning, the issue is if the w/m stops working you are left with a fairly hairy issue. If your lucky and have an ecu with relevant GPO or GPI's you can set the warning on the WMI to switch to a low octane map.

Even if you use the system to stop your current knocking issues with water meth the underlying problem is still there if it ever fails to operate. Fix the underlying issue, or be vigilant with WM levels :)

either way the only sytems to use are available from rocket and here is the systems website. http://www.snowperformance.net/

Edited by URAS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...