Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im replacing the exhaust cam in a rb25neo which is from a stagea. the cam is a U6 type.

are rb25neo (stagea) cams different from rb25neo (r34gtt) cams?

could i use the r34 gtt exhaust cam in my rb25neo stagea engine?

what no. is a r34gtt exhaust cam?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286086-stagea-rb25neo-cam-need-help-urgent/
Share on other sites

the S2 Stagea and the R34 share the same exhaust cam p/n in fast for the RB25DET, RB25DE is different. also interesting is that the inlet cam p/n is the same across the 2.5L Neo range, DE, DET, Stagea, R34 are all the same

A few of us skeptics believe that the stock cams in the Stagea engines (S1 & S2) are 'milder' (a 'leaner grind') than R34; but they're the same engine, so just ask your tuner's advice on which cam to order - it will be the same as for the R34, and should unlock the power :)

A few of us skeptics believe that the stock cams in the Stagea engines (S1 & S2) are 'milder' (a 'leaner grind') than R34; but they're the same engine, so just ask your tuner's advice on which cam to order - it will be the same as for the R34, and should unlock the power :)

ive spoken to three workshop and all say they arnt sure.

im looking at purchasing a second hand stock item.

im sure someone here knows what no. the r34gtt cam has on it? (stagea neo cam has U6)

i have 260deg type B poncams and i reckon the stockers are identical to all neo RB25DET's.

i'm sure i was one of the doubters that started a rumour that stagea cams might be different (years ago) when we struggled to make power expected with certain upgrades.

I think we do still struggle to make the same power :happy: But maybe it is the trans eating it all up... Look at what Tangles has had to do for his ~240kw... a turbo specialist told me that all I had to do was get my turbo rebuilt with a GT30 core and bingo I'd make 240+ kw everything standard. He was talking about R33's and R34's so a different camshaft is certainly a *convenient* theory... although I think even those cars would struggle to make that power so easily.

I still *think* the cam in an s1 Stagea is possibly different (but there may be other factors as well, such as the tuning), as the same motor in an R33 s2 makes more power (and probably more torque too, or at least spreads its torque differently) than the RB25DET in a Stagea s1.

When the s2 Stagea was released, the power and torque levels were identical to the RB25DET Neo in the R34.

I'm interested to know what you find out, beRwick_GTRage, 'cause as you have probably noticed no-one seems to know for sure what the go is with cam's in the series 2. But the idea of Poncams (ok, expensive) and a full port-and-polish (MEGA expensive - head off!) is very appealing...

On the contrary Dave the S2 seems quite clear cut: R34GTT and Stagea have the same neo engine and cams although there is not the same confidence about the S1 as yet (should be easy to check). Anyway you don't need poncams and port and polish to get to 240awkw (although it makes for a nice engine). You do need a front mount though. Just got my car back from the dyno and would have been a 240awkw car but just too much for my smic so knocked back timing etc and now have a safe 225.7awkw. Charts and details tomorrow.

thanks for the help everyone.

the cas drive on my exhaust cam broke so i need to replace the whole cam.

i was only looking for an oem replacement.

ill probably go with the r34gtt cam. i just need to know what code number it is?

because its not U6, U6 is the rb25neo stagea exhaust cam code number.

On the contrary Dave the S2 seems quite clear cut: R34GTT and Stagea have the same neo engine and cams although there is not the same confidence about the S1 as yet (should be easy to check). Anyway you don't need poncams and port and polish to get to 240awkw (although it makes for a nice engine). You do need a front mount though. Just got my car back from the dyno and would have been a 240awkw car but just too much for my smic so knocked back timing etc and now have a safe 225.7awkw. Charts and details tomorrow.

Yeah posted that before GoldZilla's post... but it's cool if they have the same cams, just means my auto must be eating lots of power... :D

OT...

That's an amazing tune, exactly the sort of tune I have been after, and I was only looking for 200rwkw... and you've got 225 at all 4 on a sidemount? series 1? look forward to details!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How much have you lowered?  I had 350Z springs in the rear and was able to pull the camber into factory spec with the factory arms on the rear, obviously the front ran negative camber as it isn't adjustable, but rotating the wheels regularly evened out the wear.
    • Either the installer needs to come back, you need an auto electrician, or you need to learn automotive electricals yourself.   First step Id look at is where that big thing came out of, is there still things unplugged at that location? Maybe they just forgot to put a relay in or something?
    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
×
×
  • Create New...