Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had a bit of time today and it had always bothered me a bit the paint in my rear "skyline" bit has started to chip off, leaving just the clear plastic there. So I decided to do something about it.

See the before shot below...

skyline-back-before.jpg

So anyway, got a little bottle of some nice silver mixed up (about $8) and set forth with a little hobby paintbrush redetailing all the letters. Takes a steady hand and about an hour, but the results are worth it...

skyline-back-after.jpg

The results are great! From about a foot away you can see slight roughness, which is pretty hard to avoid just using a brush, but otherwise it looks awesome. From a distance it looks like factory, if not better... now everybody is no doubt as to what they just got hosed by :cool:

skyline-ass.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28616-putting-the-skyline-back-in-skyline/
Share on other sites

er ok.. or maybe tattoo one of them lightning bolts to your head! :cool:

pushead: i just went to Eastern Autopaints in Bayswater (look up in Yellowpages). Then I just picked a nice silver out of their book and they made it up in like a 50ml bottle (same as touchup paint). There were a few different ones that varied subtely, but I think I got the nice one.

Ah, looks excellent! I've been meaning to do this for a long time now, just haven't gotten my arse into gear.

I spoke to my mechanic ages ago about this (well, panel beater but the other guys there do mechanical work in the same shop) and he said to do it best you should tape it up before painting, so that you get perfectly straight edges and only have to worry about the rounded corners.

Can I ask what paint you used? Do Autobarn etc sell chrome paint that works ok on plastic? I've got some leftover silver paint from my respray I could use, but I'd rather have it done in chrome. The colour will be more uniform and I think it'll look nicer.

The reason Series 2 are painted is the whole reason there is a series two in the first place.

Series two cars (not just Skylines, FTOs Supras, RX-7s, etc) are normally the same car as the series one with a few cosmetic diffrences. Normally the engines and and everything else is the same. On the FTOs they changed the front fog lights and little things like that.

Series 2 come out 3 years after the first production date, the REASON for Series 2 (and in some cases, series 3) is due to the Shakan (sp?)

On GTS-ts the engines are different, Series 2 has a VVT style head on it.

Also, comes with twin airbags also.

You are right about cosmetic differences, but ,they also have different bonnets, from bumper bar and left and right front quarter panels, more squarer lines.

Paul

um, this isn't meant to be a differences between series 1 and 2 thread! :growl: Although I reckon you could do a S2 in exactly the same way and it would shit hot with the silver on say white or whatever :)

Well the paint is Acrylic "Silver dollar" colour (whatever paint code that is).

x2shy: I didn't need to sand down the remaining paint, and it paints fine over the top. I guess you could also use 600+ wet and dry to sand back any bits you mucked up a bit, and go over them again.

You could tape it, but I decided there really wasn't any need, the letters are raised enough to be able to brush over the letters and not get onto the back plastic that easily. The small bits that did get on there, I easily got off just by using the back of the brush to flake them off. If you were using spray i guess you'd mask it up, but unless you masked it really really well it wouldn't look half as good.

Automotive paint would be better than plastic model paints, because the former is designed to resist UV rays from the sun. 2pac paint works well with plastic, but I don't know if you can get it in chrome. I think plastic model paint would just start peeling before the end of summer.

Guest RedLineGTR

also u can try some of those paint pens with like silver and gold colours etc..they work a treat its not a chrome silver but a more plain silver..does the job quite well two coats and it had lasted for over 8 months. Its hard to find one that is in perfect condition. Also an idea is to paint that whole section like in the series 2 skylines.

I looked at this on the weekend and how the hell do you get the thing off the car. I didnt want to mess with it too much as they are expensive to replace if you break them I think.

So how do you get it off?

Didn't take it off.. just did it on the car. I think you can take them off, but you have to remove some boot trim and get in from the back.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...