Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had a bit of time today and it had always bothered me a bit the paint in my rear "skyline" bit has started to chip off, leaving just the clear plastic there. So I decided to do something about it.

See the before shot below...

skyline-back-before.jpg

So anyway, got a little bottle of some nice silver mixed up (about $8) and set forth with a little hobby paintbrush redetailing all the letters. Takes a steady hand and about an hour, but the results are worth it...

skyline-back-after.jpg

The results are great! From about a foot away you can see slight roughness, which is pretty hard to avoid just using a brush, but otherwise it looks awesome. From a distance it looks like factory, if not better... now everybody is no doubt as to what they just got hosed by :cool:

skyline-ass.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28616-putting-the-skyline-back-in-skyline/
Share on other sites

er ok.. or maybe tattoo one of them lightning bolts to your head! :cool:

pushead: i just went to Eastern Autopaints in Bayswater (look up in Yellowpages). Then I just picked a nice silver out of their book and they made it up in like a 50ml bottle (same as touchup paint). There were a few different ones that varied subtely, but I think I got the nice one.

Ah, looks excellent! I've been meaning to do this for a long time now, just haven't gotten my arse into gear.

I spoke to my mechanic ages ago about this (well, panel beater but the other guys there do mechanical work in the same shop) and he said to do it best you should tape it up before painting, so that you get perfectly straight edges and only have to worry about the rounded corners.

Can I ask what paint you used? Do Autobarn etc sell chrome paint that works ok on plastic? I've got some leftover silver paint from my respray I could use, but I'd rather have it done in chrome. The colour will be more uniform and I think it'll look nicer.

The reason Series 2 are painted is the whole reason there is a series two in the first place.

Series two cars (not just Skylines, FTOs Supras, RX-7s, etc) are normally the same car as the series one with a few cosmetic diffrences. Normally the engines and and everything else is the same. On the FTOs they changed the front fog lights and little things like that.

Series 2 come out 3 years after the first production date, the REASON for Series 2 (and in some cases, series 3) is due to the Shakan (sp?)

On GTS-ts the engines are different, Series 2 has a VVT style head on it.

Also, comes with twin airbags also.

You are right about cosmetic differences, but ,they also have different bonnets, from bumper bar and left and right front quarter panels, more squarer lines.

Paul

um, this isn't meant to be a differences between series 1 and 2 thread! :growl: Although I reckon you could do a S2 in exactly the same way and it would shit hot with the silver on say white or whatever :)

Well the paint is Acrylic "Silver dollar" colour (whatever paint code that is).

x2shy: I didn't need to sand down the remaining paint, and it paints fine over the top. I guess you could also use 600+ wet and dry to sand back any bits you mucked up a bit, and go over them again.

You could tape it, but I decided there really wasn't any need, the letters are raised enough to be able to brush over the letters and not get onto the back plastic that easily. The small bits that did get on there, I easily got off just by using the back of the brush to flake them off. If you were using spray i guess you'd mask it up, but unless you masked it really really well it wouldn't look half as good.

Automotive paint would be better than plastic model paints, because the former is designed to resist UV rays from the sun. 2pac paint works well with plastic, but I don't know if you can get it in chrome. I think plastic model paint would just start peeling before the end of summer.

Guest RedLineGTR

also u can try some of those paint pens with like silver and gold colours etc..they work a treat its not a chrome silver but a more plain silver..does the job quite well two coats and it had lasted for over 8 months. Its hard to find one that is in perfect condition. Also an idea is to paint that whole section like in the series 2 skylines.

I looked at this on the weekend and how the hell do you get the thing off the car. I didnt want to mess with it too much as they are expensive to replace if you break them I think.

So how do you get it off?

Didn't take it off.. just did it on the car. I think you can take them off, but you have to remove some boot trim and get in from the back.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...