Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think they are more complicated. They don't display correctly ('reply' box is missing) in Netscape either (v7.02).

Also where is the 'view latest threads' link ? I'm lost without that function ;)

I love the colour scheme, much more work friendly.

Benm, view new threads is there, it's one of the tick buttons near "Welcome" on the top at the right.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28727-new-look-forums/#findComment-593199
Share on other sites

hey guys - no need to get used to the colour schemes etc - new ones will be here shortly... only prob is the old ones dont work with the new version.. so just gotta make new ones.

Oh... so it's going back to black etc?

Nice if it is... i just hate white :headspin:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28727-new-look-forums/#findComment-594262
Share on other sites

ok guys.. listen... this is a beta version of the new VBulletin software.. once the official release has been.. err.. released, i will add the styles, hacks (like quick reply) and others to make it better.. just be patient!

Christian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28727-new-look-forums/#findComment-594925
Share on other sites

Do I also note that the forum takes a bit longer to load compared to before, is this because of server performance issues or is it because of the new style more graphic intensive compared to old one?

I'm still on 56k. (No don't say get a broadband, coz I really can't right now)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28727-new-look-forums/#findComment-607770
Share on other sites

Ben, I'm using Netscape 7.1 and apart from the buttons at the top (user cp, etc) not going full width all the rest is displayed.

Yup I upgraded to v7.1 last night and the "reply" box is showing correctly now. Guess v7.02 had a bug or was outdated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28727-new-look-forums/#findComment-614323
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...