Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm contemplating ditching all the engine bay components of the air con system but from what I have read through searching, there's only 10kg's worth of gear and bugger all gained from not having the belt attached. Sound about right?

My car is a dedicated track/fun S13 but it is still street reg'd (though not road worthy I'm sure). I've done some basic weight reduction stuff like removing all the boot stuff, spare wheel, jack, rear seats, rear speakers and parcel shelf, upgraded the drivers seat and put some volks on it but that's mainly in the rear so any more weight removed should probably come from up front.

Who has done this and what did you actually find afterward, worth the effort? The issue for me is not comfort as I don't drive it on the street but more about re-sale when it comes time to let it go.

FYI my car is only a CA18DET with a turbo back exhaust, front mount and a bit of boost. I realise I will gain more from a turbo upgrade etc and that's coming, just interested in the air con removal for the moment.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287292-before-and-after-of-air-con-removal/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You've pretty much already slapped up what the gains are (nothing at all really)

Look, there is a gain... is it worth the time and effort?

Not really when you still have sound deadening material in the boot/rear and extra wiring, dash and other things which tip much more in terms of weight.

But as you don't wanna go to far - just do the turbo when you are ready.

If you really want gains, have a side pipe made up and drop the exhaust @ track days, you'll find a lot more than 10KG's there

It depends on what you're looking for. the a/c on its own will make bugger all difference but if you combine it with the myriad of other little things that make bugger all difference it becomes a worthwhile collective.

My car is a street/track car as well and i have thrown out the a/c, the heater, all stereo equipment, rear wiper assembly, boot furniture, inner guards, rear seats, undertray, rear parcel shelf, rear seat belt asemblys, and so much more i cant think of atm. Next on the hit list is the sound deadening material and from there I will start replacing stock parts with c/f. first on the hit list is the boot and the hinge/strut assembly.

Weight removal is as good as a horsepower upgrade with the added benefit of being easier on suspension and braking etc. In the end it all comes down to how serious you are.

on an sr the bracket is a big hunk of cast iron so there is a reasonable weight saving

On an rb it's alloy so you save about 3kgs less.

On a CA i have no idea

If you have cooling issues remove the condensor, other wise leave it all alone.

Edited by badhairdave

As far as weight saving goes, 10kg is hardly a deal breaker. As far as performance goes, well consider this: My PB at Morgan Park was set when I forgot to turn off the a/c on my second last run of the day. This was an otherwise stock WRX. So much for the a/c sapping performance.

Consider also the benefit off having a cool cabin when you're lapping on hot days. With the rest of the interior stripped out, the interior can get extremely hot on a warm sunny day. The effect of having a cool, alert driver will do much more for your lap times than stripping 10kg of dead weight out of your car.

My next rally car is going to have the A/C left in. Specially good for de fogging on those rainy night time stages.

You've pretty much already slapped up what the gains are (nothing at all really)

Look, there is a gain... is it worth the time and effort?

Not really when you still have sound deadening material in the boot/rear and extra wiring, dash and other things which tip much more in terms of weight.

But as you don't wanna go to far - just do the turbo when you are ready.

If you really want gains, have a side pipe made up and drop the exhaust @ track days, you'll find a lot more than 10KG's there

Side pipe is another option but that does cost more money, removing the AC in the short term is free. (Will cost to get re-gassed later though)

It depends on what you're looking for. the a/c on its own will make bugger all difference but if you combine it with the myriad of other little things that make bugger all difference it becomes a worthwhile collective.

My car is a street/track car as well and i have thrown out the a/c, the heater, all stereo equipment, rear wiper assembly, boot furniture, inner guards, rear seats, undertray, rear parcel shelf, rear seat belt asemblys, and so much more i cant think of atm. Next on the hit list is the sound deadening material and from there I will start replacing stock parts with c/f. first on the hit list is the boot and the hinge/strut assembly.

Weight removal is as good as a horsepower upgrade with the added benefit of being easier on suspension and braking etc. In the end it all comes down to how serious you are.

Sounds like you're pretty serious lol I think that's half my issue. Wanting to get busy on it but not wanting to go too far due to issues arising with re-sale. Sure it's reg'd but not many people will want a fully stripped out 'street' car lol

on an sr the bracket is a big hunk of cast iron so there is a reasonable weight saving

On an rb it's alloy so you save about 3kgs less.

On a CA i have no idea

If you have cooling issues remove the condensor, other wise leave it all alone.

No cooling issues thus far (did have some oil issues but fitted a cooler) but I bouht it in the cooler months, only had it since May or so? The radiator appears to be a brand new item.

As far as weight saving goes, 10kg is hardly a deal breaker. As far as performance goes, well consider this: My PB at Morgan Park was set when I forgot to turn off the a/c on my second last run of the day. This was an otherwise stock WRX. So much for the a/c sapping performance.

Consider also the benefit off having a cool cabin when you're lapping on hot days. With the rest of the interior stripped out, the interior can get extremely hot on a warm sunny day. The effect of having a cool, alert driver will do much more for your lap times than stripping 10kg of dead weight out of your car.

My next rally car is going to have the A/C left in. Specially good for de fogging on those rainy night time stages.

I didn't know anyone ever ran with the a/c on for track days. Am I alone in thinking that seems a bit 'soft'? Sorry no nice way to say it =\

I didn't know anyone ever ran with the a/c on for track days. Am I alone in thinking that seems a bit 'soft'? Sorry no nice way to say it =\

Haha no need to sugar coat it - yes I have grown soft in my old age and am very proud to admit it.

What happened was, as I was sitting at the start, I had the air conditioning on (was a hot day, wearing long sleeves and jeans, black interior yadda yadda). Yes - I like to keep cool while I sit at the staging area. When my session started, I forgot to turn off the a/c, like I normally do once I hit the track. That was my point - the one time I forgot to turn off the A/C was the session that I recorded my PB out there. Obviously the A/C coultn't have affected my performance too much.

It might be soft to try and keep comfortable, but when you eliminate one source of potential brain fade (specially in long rallies in the middle of summer) I'm more than happy to be called soft.

Track days on the other hand, well yeh no need to leave it on while you're out there racing.

OK I'll turn the knife a bit more then and say maybe you're just not consistent enough with your lap times to get the gain :) Though I'm saying that purely for the comical value as I'm in the exact same boat :D

Hmm...

Sounds like you're pretty serious lol I think that's half my issue. Wanting to get busy on it but not wanting to go too far due to issues arising with re-sale. Sure it's reg'd but not many people will want a fully stripped out 'street' car lol

Like i said mate, its free horsepower. You wouldnt know it was missing by just looking at the car, And i have kept it all if i ever want to return it to stock.

The car is loud but hey, I freakin love it. i can drive it for hours at a time and never get tired of the sound of an angry RB. It shits me when i get near home so I usually take the long shortcut just so I can hear it some more. :D

OK I'll turn the knife a bit more then and say maybe you're just not consistent enough with your lap times to get the gain ;) Though I'm saying that purely for the comical value as I'm in the exact same boat ;)

Hmm...

Yeh probably not. I'm not used to this black sticky stuff where going sideways actually costs you time :)

Still, even allowing for a bit of inconsistency, it shows that the power loss from A/C on hardly has a huge impact on lap times. Just for the record, my times on the day were 4th fastest outright, beaten only by two very modified GTR's on slicks or semi's, and the same model WRX as mine but with about 400HP and mega dollar suspension work. Mine was bog stock, still with spare tyre and kiddy seats in the back. I must've been doing something right.

Rip it out Dan, AC in an S13 is balls anyway! 10kg's is still 10kg's... hard to get that loss in other areas.

I love my A/C in the failvia S13... ;)

I just lost 10kg's in body weight over the last 3 months so that justifies leaving the AC IMO :)

lol I take it you're not the type to us AC while staging Dane?

Im with you mate, noice n cool whilst waiting to hit the track!

But on topic, i am in the same boat. Have a road registered S13 that only comes out for track work and to the mechanics. So trying to get the most out of the car whilst retaining re-sale ability is a fine line! I have just stripped the boot and rear seats. Sometimes passanger seat comes out for a few kg's of saving... But going to the next step of carpet, sound deadening, parcel shelf etc etc is one i am a bit dubious about....

I can't recall ever using it in the 180, even when it was a daily. It killed performance way too much for me... and windows are aaaaaaaalright :D

you could do with a bit of a tan aswell, that is a key point.

Although you probably had shit gas if the A/C was poor - thats another issue all together :D

C'mon Ash, you know you enjoy my white glow, it drives the girls wild :D

But yes, no doubt the gas was no good but I'm not a big AC fan. I'll only use it if I have to. The Clubbie loved it though, it was like it wasn't even on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...