Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice brake kit!... drooooool

those 2500's will be fine, better pad for the street IMO... the 3000's just chew up your rotors when cold... you won't run out of braking with that setup:)

you don't need to learn to drive, you have a GTR, just point it where you want to go and step on the loud pedal! ;) ... best place to start would be on the Deca skid pan and I'm sure there are a bunch of people there who would love a close look at the car... it would be a weapon around the cones with its quick response

Pictorial of more HKS goodness...Hmmm.... 2.8L Step 2 capacity upgrade kit rated 588kw:

Forged Piston kit (nickel plated & piston surface has a final molybdenum coating):

39536356.jpg

52470659.jpg

Note the valve relief pre-machined on the piston top

48133825.jpg

82104185.jpg

61371416.jpg

H cross section connecting rods:

55479821.jpg

75229039.jpg

60110804.jpg

55171440.jpg

20697678.jpg

Fully forged & balanced counter crankshaft:

31629446.jpg

69826248.jpg

Sorry, I did not unwrap the crankshaft for some reason.

The fully balanced crankshaft makes the engine feel much smoother at high rpms, even at idle the engine noise and vibration is minimal.

Nice rod design. I like the extra material where the mating surfaces are between the rod and bearing cap. Makes for less material distortion to push the bearings out of round when the bolts are torqued to spec.

Are you aiming for over 500kw? Just wondering why you went for the step 2 pistons with the nickel coating. Having a ceramic coating instead would have been fine for less power and have been more streetable due to less heat transfer to the oil.

I'd like to see some before and after proof of the V-Cam system working (i.e. actually tuned correctly)... I'm in very close contact with the HKS tuner from Sydney and it's not just as simple as what you've put down.

Nice build.

If you are scared of nailing the loud pedal then you really need to take it to a place like Sandown and open the taps in the thing....just remember the middle pedal and get the thing slowed down as i am guessin the thing will be a bullet.

LOL, makes me laugh that Adam has a similar engine in a rwd GTSt....MADNESS!!!!!

GTRNUR Posted Yesterday, 11:22 PM

Are you aiming for over 500kw? Just wondering why you went for the step 2 pistons with the nickel coating. Having a ceramic coating instead would have been fine for less power and have been more streetable due to less heat transfer to the oil.

Hi GTRNUR,

I am aiming for good low end response rather than peak power, that's why a pair of Garrett's 2860-5s have been chosen rather than a big single banger. I am aiming for over 400rwKw.

I went for Step 2 because that's what Beno recommended. I know its a lame explanation. But every time I deviated from his recommendation I end up getting compromised result.

Roy Posted Today, 02:08 PM

Nice build.

If you are scared of nailing the loud pedal then you really need to take it to a place like Sandown and open the taps in the thing....just remember the middle pedal and get the thing slowed down as i am guessin the thing will be a bullet.

Thank Roy.

Sandown is definitely on agenda, maybe after a run or two at the drag strip first. I am still learning to launch the car properly. The problem is its not the thing to practice on public roads!

Cheers

Matt

I am aiming for good low end response rather than peak power, that's why a pair of Garrett's 2860-5s have been chosen rather than a big single banger. I am aiming for over 400rwKw.

I went for Step 2 because that's what Beno recommended. I know its a lame explanation. But every time I deviated from his recommendation I end up getting compromised result.

Not at all. The smartest thing you can do is put your trust in a builder with the skills of Ben at Racepace. Im sure he has his reasons for suggesting the step 2 kit. Perhaps for a simple a reason as planning for the future, or maybe the valve pockets accomodate more valve lift with the v-cam setup.

How long till the block machining and assembly starts? Are you intending to use your factory engine block or are you building up the RB28 in another N1 block?

Thanks for sharing,

Ian

Hey Ian,

Actually the build is all complete! :D This is more like a retrospective build thread. I guess I am keeping everyone in suspense.

The original NUR engine was kept as a long block and a brand new N1 block was purchased and machined.

Cheers

Matt

Ah... i suspected as much. That explains your comment about how scary fast it is a lot better. If it were that way before you undertook these changes you'd probably never drive the car after the build was finished.

Glad you kept the original engine intact as well.

Thanks for comments guys.

Let's showcase more parts:

Garretts GT 2860R - 707160-5 goodness:

19021152.jpg

85413105.jpg

47339041.jpg

52246082.jpg

27959788.jpg

Let's see how much boost these puppies can generate!

Nismo Twin plate super coppermix clutch, rated at 640ps:

51987984.jpg

90569937.jpg

18736025.jpg

41708694.jpg

24178582.jpg

I don't know why I did not take it out of the plastic bag for a decent photo :P

Nismo AFM:

19091296.jpg

Tomei Oil Pump:

87731862.jpg

93325818.jpg

37818530.jpg

Sard 700cc injectors:

83081948.jpg

13032030.jpg

So, that's pretty much a wrap up of all the parts for engine rebuild. Note absence of upgraded fuel pump, regulators, boost controller, fuel rail etc., as the stock items are considered to be good enough. Oh, actually I forgot the new N1 block, which I don't have any photos as the engine block was sent straight to machine shop.

wow this is an impressive car! Congratulations on an exceptional build so far.

Think you need the nismo's on there though, but after seeing the nismo's next to the 19" te37's they look small so time for some 19x10.5 lmgt4's...

Do you mind if i ask what you do? Feel free to tell me to bugger off though!

cheers, Tim

Found a photo of the new N1 block mounted on an engine stand:

dscf0188h.jpg

And out with the 'old' NUR engine:

36490074.jpg

If there is anyone interested in a genuine NUR long block with low mileage, then please pm me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...