Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Nissan TB48, forged internals only, Vipec v88 ecu.

COMPLETLY stock head which as pretty much the same VCT as an RB25DET! stock cams springs everything. 2 bar boost. its got a borg warner turbo of some sort.

I managed a max 794rwhp the power figure shown was toned a little for street use.

Crazy customer... I call him "Mr crazy" in arabic :)

post-1240-0-43149600-1321488437_thumb.jpg post-1240-0-20547400-1321488572_thumb.jpg

post-1240-0-32833600-1321488585_thumb.jpg

Soooo... Alot has been happening the last week... I tuned the 2012 V8 VK56DET Nissan Patrol with the Vipec V88, Customer is VERY happy with it considering its only on 5psi boost...

Anyway he calls me the next morning and said I have to go with him because he is building a drift car, and he wants one a RB done by me...

So we go for a drive to the jap part of the UAE, 1.2 hours drive and then he hands over a wad of cash for this baby...

post-1240-0-99453900-1322180683_thumb.jpg post-1240-0-12798200-1322180715_thumb.jpg

post-1240-0-65277000-1322180741_thumb.jpg

Anyway little did I know that the car he was building he already purchased, a 2004 Nissan 350z. He handed me the car and I drove it around for a few days... Now we removed the engine from the half cut and the 350z, but found the 26 had alot of end float in it and the crank is shagged... ahhh well.. no matter we will rebuild it!

So after changing the cams in my old RB30DET i started to suffer some misfiring, Paul from Red R Racing mentioned that I am starving the top end of oil with my sydney kid restrictor configuration and i should open one back up again, so I decided to do just that and also get some valve springs from performance springs in QLD.

got the springs and decided to take the engine out of the car, lucky I did because the week before I kinda tried a 3rd gear anti lag launch and kinda fried the clutch up pretty bad and as suspected it was stuffed. My Jim Berry full monte race clutch done me very very well! 4 years of abuse and in the last 3 months of its life it ran a 10.8 second quarter!

post-1240-0-97688400-1322182125_thumb.jpg post-1240-0-73884700-1322182139_thumb.jpg

Anyway the clutch was shagged, quick call to Jim Berry and he let me in on some of his secrets of the clutch that was built for me, and how I can get the flywheel back to new again by making a new insert for it! so i got the parts and sent it off to the local machine shop, and what do you know! they managed to pull it off! I re-machined the pressure plate which was still clamping good and Jim made me a new clutch plate after i read the numbers off the old one and got it to me here in the UAE in less then 5 days including shipping time! What a champion!!!! Thanks Jim !!!

I removed the head from the old RB30DET I screwed together back in 2007, and what was inside came as quite a shock!

160,000+ km , 4 years, 3 countries, 2 cars, 3 turbo's... 10.8 second quarter @ 135mph (done months before i opened it) All kinds of different fuels, aussie 95 98, e85, Georgian pump gas 91 and 98 octane with god knows how much vodka spirits mixed in to get the octane up, and even Q16 VP racing fuel and UAE fuel which is really good....

The funny thing is this old RB30DET traveled more on the road then it did by ship!

Specs of the engine is

ACL Forged Pistons

Precision Motorsports Rods

ACL Race Bearings

Crank Collar and N1 oil pump.

Not even 1 sign of detonation or knock marks or anything, the pistons were in perfect condition with just alot of carbon build up, the head was perfect also, no marks scratches or anything I was in pure disbelief that after all this time the engine was still going strong and really if i did not change the cams it would never have needed to be opened anyway!

The head gasket was in such good condition that I RE-USED IT!!

You can tell alot about a tune on a engine that has blown up after opening it and looking inside,

so you can tell alot about a tuner by opening his own daily / drift / drag / world traveled RB30DET and take a look inside! =)

Remember this car was fully street legal / emissions tested and engineered before it left the country!

post-1240-0-18088400-1322183218_thumb.jpg post-1240-0-49771100-1322183278_thumb.jpg

post-1240-0-54277300-1322183299_thumb.jpg post-1240-0-41126800-1322183316_thumb.jpg

post-1240-0-89805600-1322183546_thumb.jpg post-1240-0-13284000-1322183561_thumb.jpg

So we started work on the Suspension parts, Parts ordered.

post-1240-0-64965500-1322183726_thumb.jpg

Installation time!

post-1240-0-08403300-1322183581_thumb.jpg post-1240-0-52435400-1322183597_thumb.jpg

post-1240-0-23079900-1322183615_thumb.jpg post-1240-0-15530500-1322183642_thumb.jpg

post-1240-0-01126400-1322183707_thumb.jpg post-1240-0-01126400-1322183707_thumb.jpg

post-1240-0-29719400-1322183718_thumb.jpg

I got alot of work on setting up the suspension, I have added sooo many adjustments down there and have no frigging idea what to do with them and nobody here knows either, I guess thats one way that I learn best... get in there and just do it yourself. always interested in you guys suggestions and opinions on whats the best drift / track / street setup if you would like to share... *hint hint*

Will post up some more stuff soon, Been sooo busy these days its just been crazy!

Some good news though, I am going to come home for a visit holiday from around mid december to mid january, and could be available for some tuning to the right guys, drop me a PM if you are interested.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...