Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Stock- 296 x 24mm fronts

R32 GTR non vspec - scotty is very right - 296x32

R33 GTR - 324mmx30mm

taken from dba. don't know about minimums. There are some dodgy discs out there for sure. I'd say 2mm wear and its time for something fresh.

Noob.:P

You measured yours...?

guess what they are...

I checked the thickness when I put em on and before I bought em.....but next time I get a wheel off I'll check...pretty sure they are standard R33GTR...not the V-Spec!

http://nisoctt.forum...-up-information

Edited by Jetwreck

ok i lost all the info i put together and had to do it again :( LOL

same sized brake pad for all R32/R33/R34 and 350Z with the brembo's....

R32 GTR disc is 296x32mm with height of 54mm

R33/R34 GTR disc is 324mmx30mm with height of 53.8mm

350Z brembo's is 324mmx30mm with height of 49mm

Edited by WAGON_BOY

ok i lost all the info i put together and had to do it again :( LOL

same sized brake pad for all R32/R33/R34 and 350Z with the brembo's....

R32 GTR disc is 296x32mm with height of 54mm

R33/R34 GTR disc is 324mmx30mm with height of 53.8mm

350Z brembo's is 324mmx30mm with height of 49mm

http://www.project-mu.co.jp/e/files/SCR_LIST.htm

P.S. Alex(PN-Mad) now has me thinking....I am really going to have to take off my wheels and check the rotor thickness...not admitting defeat yetph34r.gif!

ok i lost all the info i put together and had to do it again :( LOL

same sized brake pad for all R32/R33/R34 and 350Z with the brembo's....

R32 GTR disc is 296x32mm with height of 54mm

R33/R34 GTR disc is 324mmx30mm with height of 53.8mm

350Z brembo's is 324mmx30mm with height of 49mm

I don't get what the concern with brake pad's is .....you have ????? brakes on your car.....ring a brake place tell em I have ????? brakes and what pads do you have to suit!

http://www.project-m...es/SCR_LIST.htm

P.S. Alex(PN-Mad) now has me thinking....I am really going to have to take off one of my wheels and check the rotor thickness...not admitting defeat yetph34r.gif!

meh... 2mm isn't too much to worry about anyway...

war have been fought over less...:pirate:

lol :teehee:

Let me summarise for wagon boy

when upgrading brakes you can do the following-

1)better quality original size pads and rotors

2)commercial big brake kit for G35/Z33

3)Z34 Akenbo kit ex US

4)r32 GTR conversion / possible upgrade to 324mm

5) z33 Brembo conversion

6) R33/34 Brembo conversion

between everyone here, all those have been done. std wheels won't fit- you need aftermarket.

most people worry about the fronts but not the backs. All will cost different $ depending on what you decide.

std wheels won't fit- you need aftermarket.

ive got the AXIS 18" rims im sure they will clear the callipers or is it the offset thats wrong???

cos i have a custom 324mm disc with RX7 S6 4spot callipers on my 808 wagon and i run a 16" rim.

Offset- the side of the 4 pot will hit the spokes- the diameter of the wheel is plenty big enough.

easist way to check - put a wheel on a z33 with Brembos or a R3* with Sumitomos

We know arx rims don't fit, my s2 17's dont fit - that being said, I don't know if ppl have tried the axis rim.

Edited by PN-Mad

meh... 2mm isn't too much to worry about anyway...

war have been fought over less...:pirate:

lol :teehee:

Let me summarise for wagon boy

when upgrading brakes you can do the following-

1)better quality original size pads and rotors

2)commercial big brake kit for G35/Z33

3)Z34 Akenbo kit ex US

4)r32 GTR conversion / possible upgrade to 324mm

5) z33 Brembo conversion

6) R33/34 Brembo conversion

between everyone here, all those have been done. std wheels won't fit- you need aftermarket.

most people worry about the fronts but not the backs. All will cost different $ depending on what you decide.

use the AP big break kit for a 350z nuff said

Ap are up there as one of the best they make break kis for F1 for fs sake

Why anyone would need massive kits like those on the street I have no idea, best to keep the rotating weight down. I can get abs to kick in with my little toe with just 295mm disks.

Good slotted rotors and a good set of pads is what you want, braided lines will improve the feel. I got my r32 callipers for $300, the full set.

meh... 2mm isn't too much to worry about anyway...

war have been fought over less...:pirate:

lol :teehee:

Let me summarise for wagon boy

when upgrading brakes you can do the following-

1)better quality original size pads and rotors

2)commercial big brake kit for G35/Z33

3)Z34 Akenbo kit ex US

4)r32 GTR conversion / possible upgrade to 324mm

5) z33 Brembo conversion

6) R33/34 Brembo conversion

between everyone here, all those have been done. std wheels won't fit- you need aftermarket.

most people worry about the fronts but not the backs. All will cost different $ depending on what you decide.

to be honest, i went with number 10] got some slotted rotors, and good qfm pads.

mine stops fine. and l can still get ABS on fine.

my theory is, if i change the brakes, and know that I can start braking alot later to stop, i'll over calculate and put it into a wall lol.

where as now, i know i have to stop a little early - i concentrate more.

+ me and scott were discussing this, and i rarely rely on breaks anyway

by no means sell the brembo's.. you already have most of the stuff(or the more important anyway) might as well just do it.

however, i honestly do think that the BC's and Sway bars are more important - but thats me, i rarely rely on the brakes, and when i do. they stop fine. the single piston is big enough.

Scott you never stop lol

to be honest, i went with number 10] got some slotted rotors, and good qfm pads.

mine stops fine. and l can still get ABS on fine.

my theory is, if i change the brakes, and know that I can start braking alot later to stop, i'll over calculate and put it into a wall lol.

where as now, i know i have to stop a little early - i concentrate more.

+ me and scott were discussing this, and i rarely rely on breaks anyway

The way your car is lowered you've probably lost the ability to stop it anyway :P

On a serious note with the standard callipers and rotors + only Nismo pad's I found the brakes pretty good! The R32 GTR Calliper and rotor set up was definitely better.....the Brembo's were better again....have yet to test braided lines!!

The way your car is lowered you've probably lost the ability to stop it anyway :P

On a serious note with the standard callipers and rotors + only Nismo pad's I found the brakes pretty good! The R32 GTR Calliper and rotor set up was definitely better.....the Brembo's were better again....have yet to test braided lines!!

at least i dont blow things up lol. oh wait..

car stops fine craig. oh i gotta give you a call.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...