Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I forget exactly which wire i hooked mine thru, i think it was white.

Just hook up the + and G to the gauge, and run a piece of wire to the o2 sensor, strip a tiny bit off and test them all.

Easier way is to download a ECU pinout, and hook it up to the O2 sensor wire.

Took me 5min.

the easiest way to check is with a multimeter. if you can wedge it into the plug where the wires go in while the car is running (from memory) you should see that 1 gives a 12v reading, 1 is an earth (so no reading) and the other fluctuates. that is the one you want to tap into.

i should just add, that if you think that the gauge is going to tell you your actual air/fuel ratios accurately, it won't. basically it will tell you if your o2 sensor is working properly, but other than that it will be of no use to working out if you car is running lean or rich at full throttle as it will say rich whether your AFRs are 10: or 12:1. they are designed to work with a narrow band o2 sensor (which is what the stock one is) and won't work the same as a wideband. that said i have one in my car because i like flashy lights, lol

What's the point of an AFR gauge?

I'm not trying to be smart, just genuinely interested.

Thanks.

the ones that go to the stock o2 sensor: to see if your o2 sensor is functioning properly, and to look pretty. you can also use it to drive more economically.

wideband setup: for tuning purposes

What's the point of an AFR gauge?

I'm not trying to be smart, just genuinely interested.

Thanks.

The Autobarn ones - there is no point. Those are the ones that wire into the O2 sensor or similar.

They are utterly useless and do not give any useful information.

aut7175.jpg

The only way is with a proper wideband sensor to output meaningful data to a ECU/Laptop etc for logging.

Would look similar to below

These type could be hooked upto a PROPER gauge, or ECU/laptop pinouts etc

wideband1.jpg

I suspect that this thread is about the first type however... Because if you knew about the second one, you wouldn't be asking how to install it :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...