Help With Fitting T04e Rb25det R33

[RicsR33]

Hi Guys/Gals

Im quite new to working on turbo cars and I've ran into a few problems fitting my new T04e (Probably cheap chinese, i bought it new from a mate)

#1 Problem : This is my problem, my current split dump pipe uses the stock flange but this new turbo doesnt have a flange yet and im wondering how i would go about getting on fitted on the T04E, as u can see its just round.. how did you's get around this?

#2 Problem : The stock manifold makes this turbo sit on the engine mount which isnt a drama as i was looking at a new turbo manifold, wanting to stay low mount im wondering how will i know that the new manifold will not remotely the same, as you can see in the picture ill have bugger all chance getting that part hooked up. Im also guessing ill need to get the flange welded on this aswell.

#3 Problem : Which isnt really a problem but more of a question, ive been reading that i may need a oil restrictor in the feed line. Is there a way i can check this before cranking it over? Im guessing i can blow out the seals with to much oil or blow it with restricting to much.

Thanks Guys ive included pics, sorry that its dark.

Thanks again

Richard

[tridentt150v]

1. You can't use a split dump with that turbo unless you get a custom flange made up because your actuator pivot goes through the existing flange. The turbo has a flange, but if you unbolt it you also disable the wastegate if you get my meaning. It will cost a bit to get it modded and wouldn't be worth it.

2. The turbo hitting on the engine mount, wouldn't have thought it was low enough, but hitting on the manifold maybe [uI'll need to see the photo's again. I'll answer this again later.

3. If this turbo is a plain bearing unit - and it looks like it - then you won't need an oil restrictor. What you will have to do is remove any restrictor that you do have becuase journal bearing turbo's need the oil flow.

Will it do any good to say get rid of it, it will cost more $$$$ than its worth?

Hi Guys/Gals

Im quite new to working on turbo cars and I've ran into a few problems fitting my new T04e (Probably cheap chinese, i bought it new from a mate)

#1 Problem : This is my problem, my current split dump pipe uses the stock flange but this new turbo doesnt have a flange yet and im wondering how i would go about getting on fitted on the T04E, as u can see its just round.. how did you's get around this?

#2 Problem : The stock manifold makes this turbo sit on the engine mount which isnt a drama as i was looking at a new turbo manifold, wanting to stay low mount im wondering how will i know that the new manifold will not remotely the same, as you can see in the picture ill have bugger all chance getting that part hooked up. Im also guessing ill need to get the flange welded on this aswell.

#3 Problem : Which isnt really a problem but more of a question, ive been reading that i may need a oil restrictor in the feed line. Is there a way i can check this before cranking it over? Im guessing i can blow out the seals with to much oil or blow it with restricting to much.

Thanks Guys ive included pics, sorry that its dark.

Thanks again

Richard

[RicsR33]

1. You can't use a split dump with that turbo unless you get a custom flange made up because your actuator pivot goes through the existing flange. The turbo has a flange, but if you unbolt it you also disable the wastegate if you get my meaning. It will cost a bit to get it modded and wouldn't be worth it.

So the only way around this is to unbolt this cover and disable the wastegate and somehow get it to function someother way?

or is there a dump pipe that will fit over all this and attach to the original bolts (may have to get longer bolts)

[tridentt150v]

No, you have to get someone to make up another flange that will take a split dump and machine a hole and stuff for your actuator spindle to bolt on to and work through it, or they may be able to use the existing flange and modify it to do all this. Another way is to weld the wastegate closed and go with an external gate.

BTW I can't see that turbo hitting the engine mount from those photo's, but they sometimes hit the exhaust manifold. You usually have to use a scaper plate and longer studs to mount it to the manifold.

[RicsR33]

For the turbo hitting the engine mount sorry that was my stupidity i just rotated the housing around, the snail was on the mount.

For the flange im going to mount everything then drive it across the road and get my exhaust guy to just weld the front dump-pipe to the exhaust housing.. wont worry about keeping it split, seems to much work

thanks for the advice about the restrictor i now understand with the plain bearing setup.

are these anygood or just cheap?

Cheers mate

[hypergear]

Ok. few advise before you put that on the car.

Most of the CN charger's turbine wheel's material does not have that high heat standard, and will fall apart once up against heat above 800 degrees.

The shaft tolerance, ring grove, and bearing housing inlet are usually not 100% flash. which can lead to a very short life time.

The internal wastegate on it will not work. You need to machine the wastegate port to at least 29mm working with a 34mm wastegate flap for the RB25det.

Once rotate the housings (just unbolt and rotate) you will find the wastegate actuator rod is off by far. You will need a new wastegate bracket to keep it in the right position.

With the round inlets and outlets you can just sleeve a 90 degrees 2inch pipe and a 3inch straight pipe, It will fit your stock cooler take pipe. Preferred to have proper pipes made to suit.

[RicsR33]

For the flange im going to mount everything then drive it across the road and get my exhaust guy to just weld the front dump-pipe to the exhaust housing.. wont worry about keeping it split, seems to much work

I've been thinking about it more and I will just get a standard 5 bolt stainless flange and weld it to the dumpy

when I rotated the front housing the actuator rod and bracket is in the same position as before i didn't rotate this with the housing.. Why would it be different now mate?

Could u explain to me why I would have to machine the port out?

[boostn0199]

I've been thinking about it more and I will just get a standard 5 bolt stainless flange and weld it to the dumpy

when I rotated the front housing the actuator rod and bracket is in the same position as before i didn't rotate this with the housing.. Why would it be different now mate?

Could u explain to me why I would have to machine the port out?

when you rotated the turbo snail it moved the actuaor aswell since the acatuor bracket is connected to the snail so the rod will now not be straight whcih will prob lead to it getting stuck open when it open since its on a angle nowits not a big deal just cut a peince in the bracket where the actuator is and bend it to make it so that the rod is straight again and once you have it weld it up, and in regards to porting the flap , alot of people have expeirnced boost creep when it hasnt been ported so thats why.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

all this fiddling and custom fabrication would probably cost you the same price as getting a used bolt on turbo, where the only modification you would be doing is buying some pre made oil/water lines.

[TiTAN]

i would cut your losses and buy something decent.

[RicsR33]

when you rotated the turbo snail it moved the actuaor aswell since the acatuor bracket is connected to the snail so the rod will now not be straight whcih will prob lead to it getting stuck open when it open since its on a angle nowits not a big deal just cut a peince in the bracket where the actuator is and bend it to make it so that the rod is straight again and once you have it weld it up, and in regards to porting the flap , alot of people have expeirnced boost creep when it hasnt been ported so thats why.

I'll take a picture as to how the actuator rod is sitting now as it is dead straight. When I rotated the housing I unbolted the bracket 45 degrees then rebolted it as the bolt patern was even all over, I'm pretty sure it has made no difference in the position of the actuator.

Sweet I'll just machine out the port that's no biggy, must I use the original flap off my stock turbo? Or will this one be sufficient?

Cheers

Richard

[hypergear]

With the dump pipe. You need to get a O ring then weld it onto a 2.75mm 90 degrees steel pipe. then extend it to your front pipe. The rear end of the turbo is connected by a V-band clamp. You find all those bits at your local truck exhaust places.

[PM-R33]

i would cut your losses and buy something decent.

Agreed. T04Es are cheap for a reason.

Edited September 24, 2009 by PM-R33

[hypergear]

The Garrett T04Es are still good for about 500HP and last pretty well. Before Garrett Released the BB turbos every one was running on one of those as upgrade, I believe their water/oil cooled 360 degrees thrust setup is probably more reliable then the current BB setup.