Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did they cover it under warranty? and if so how long was the turn around from taking it off to putting it back on?

I dont mean to take over this thread, just a question which is relative to some posts in here...

What do you believe is the best way to bed the rings with a fresh motor? My new 30/25 combo will be ready soon, and I was told by a very reputable tuner/builder to start the engine from cold, and let it idle, every min for 10 mins bring the revs up to about 2500rpm for a few seconds (repeat this). Then turn engine off, let it cool completely, and then do this again 3 times a day for a couple of days. Then take it off to get its run in tune.

What do you think? I hear ACL bearings are very particular and require babying within the first few hundred km's

And as asked, what is the best oil to use on run in and once the first 1500km's have been brought up...

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

my car was started and run for 30 seconds to make sure it started, idled properly and oil pressure came up. then it went off to a dyno to be run in and tuned. (both occured on the same day doing 3 oil and filter changes to make sure there wasnt excessive metal in the oil) i believe it is now running synthetic oil after only about 45 pulls on the dyno + loading the engine up for the run in.

  • 5 months later...

Completely forgot about this thread.

Replaced the turbo a few months ago and the car blows zero smoke now. Funny that GCG denied it was their fault and said it was the tune of the car that destroyed it from overheating. I would imagine an oil seal leaking enough oil to blow smoke would quite possibly cause excess friction and overheat the bearing also. Oh well, all in the past now.

Seeing as though the thread has been revived already i also have a question to ask

I have recently built up an sr20det for an s14 running a high mount gt3082r with cp pistons and cp rings, acl race bearings etc and we have done roughly 300kms on a rich run in tune with rev limit of 4500rpm

wen we got it back from tuner (engine ran for no more than 2 hours on the dyno, probably about 1 hour really) we did an oil change (20w50 mineral oil) but wen i opened the oil cap a small wiff of white smoke came out of the rocker cover, didnt think anything of it..

a few hundred kms later, it never did it again, doesnt blow any smoke at all either, we actually noticed the turbo was starting to spool abit earlier also, there is no piston slap at all wen hot, sounds like a stock engine, if not quieter!.. but has a very tiny amount of piston slap wen cold, can only hear it if bonnet is open and ur head is right ontop of the engine

anywho.. the tuner is booked out for a full rpm tune for another 3 weeks

so my question is, will it make any difference to the way the rings bed in if we keep "running" the motor in on this tune with 4500rpm limit (boost just barely comes to 0.7bar at this rpm) or should we cap our kms to 500km till we can put abit more boost through it and higher rpm (7000 or so)

thanks

Edited by snozzle
Completely forgot about this thread.

Replaced the turbo a few months ago and the car blows zero smoke now. Funny that GCG denied it was their fault and said it was the tune of the car that destroyed it from overheating. I would imagine an oil seal leaking enough oil to blow smoke would quite possibly cause excess friction and overheat the bearing also. Oh well, all in the past now.

that sounds a bit dodgey,

been hearing quite a few bad things about their "hiflows"

It was out of warranty anyway, but you could argue that with the tiny amount of use it had gone through it was unacceptable. There's lots of cases of items being replaced outside of warranty because the failure was deemed unreasonable.

I had a second opinion here in Adelaide as well and the bloke I spoke to said even if it had no water supply and running at 20psi (I was running it at 10psi) that it should have lasted longer than it did.

Seeing as though the thread has been revived already i also have a question to ask

I have recently built up an sr20det for an s14 running a high mount gt3082r with cp pistons and cp rings, acl race bearings etc and we have done roughly 300kms on a rich run in tune with rev limit of 4500rpm

wen we got it back from tuner (engine ran for no more than 2 hours on the dyno, probably about 1 hour really) we did an oil change (20w50 mineral oil) but wen i opened the oil cap a small wiff of white smoke came out of the rocker cover, didnt think anything of it..

a few hundred kms later, it never did it again, doesnt blow any smoke at all either, we actually noticed the turbo was starting to spool abit earlier also, there is no piston slap at all wen hot, sounds like a stock engine, if not quieter!.. but has a very tiny amount of piston slap wen cold, can only hear it if bonnet is open and ur head is right ontop of the engine

anywho.. the tuner is booked out for a full rpm tune for another 3 weeks

so my question is, will it make any difference to the way the rings bed in if we keep "running" the motor in on this tune with 4500rpm limit (boost just barely comes to 0.7bar at this rpm) or should we cap our kms to 500km till we can put abit more boost through it and higher rpm (7000 or so)

thanks

I'm also curious to see some opinions on this.....

I'm far from an expert on this but I would imagine that it could only make the rings bed in better not worse by 'continuing to run it in'. I imagine however you would obviously cause greater wear on the bores/bearings due to running a shitty mineral oil.

Perhaps do a compression test, if all is well then just dump the oil. Definitely wait for someone with some first hand experience to pipe in before doing that though.

If the rings are bed, theyre bed, simple.

Driving it around as it is isnt going to hurt it at all...you'd be quite safe to bump the rev limit up some as long as the tune has sufficient fuel in it etc...if its not tuned then leave as is but youre not going to hurt it...

Need to be careful when running in new motors on RICH RICH tunes as this can wash the bores and contribute to them glazing...

Had enormous issues many years ago with a red top SR20DET built by Chris Milton Engine Developments in Adelaide...they rebuilt it using stock pistons which was fine with me, however, the piston to bore clearances were way too big and it was chewing through rings after only a few 100kms...after having the thing in and out several times, forking out sh1tloads to have it run in properly on Engine Dynos etc, finally had a Piston drag test done and the piston quite literally just fell through the bore...Lol...ffs....amatuers! Ended up in small claims court...settled out of court...small consolation after all the fvcking around!!!

Another problem caused by massive crankcase pressures as I had above is shagged Turbo rear oil seals.....was chasing my tail there with that one for a while! Smoke, smoke and more smoke!

The rings were bed in probably within the first 50kms of driving it, if you gave it some good hard squirts.

You need to understand that piston rings only seal properly on the power stroke, every other stroke they are virtually dragging in the bore. They rely on the rapidly expanding gases from the burning of the mixture to get down in behind the ring itself and push it down on the ringland/seat and out against the bore(hence why top racers usually gas port their pistons for increased piston ring seal). By running low boost and driving it like a girl the top ring isnt going to be doing that job as well as it needs inorder to conform the bore to its shape to seal properly.

You only need to give it about a dozen good 3/4 boost/rpm loaded pulls and they will be right. All done and then you are ready for a proper full tune and go flog it. When I rebuilt my rb25 3 years ago my tuner wanted me to baby it for 1500-2000km till it all "beds in". I argued my point and in the end I just went and did a couple of burn outs and flogged it around the mountains a couple of times and changed the oil a few times. Luckily he never checked the odometer, so I just told him i did it and then got it fully tuned. The motor has been perfect with no oil use or smoke over the last three years. I run acl (ross) pistons in it too, good piston and ring set!

There was a good article somewhere written by a motorbike guy in europe or america on how to 'bed in' your motor properly, it was linked via the gtruk forums i think.

well we havent been babying it, car actually does quite alot of speed in 5th even though its only 4500rpm rev limit

thanks for the input guys, pretty much confirmed what my thoughts were already

full rpm tune booked for april 12th ;)

lambos come off the production line and directly into a dyno room according to the mega factories ep, after the engines are assembled they are thrown on an engine dyno also. though they never say what kind of fluids are used when doing it.

When I rebuilt my rb25 3 years ago my tuner wanted me to baby it for 1500-2000km till it all "beds in". I argued my point and in the end I just went and did a couple of burn outs and flogged it around the mountains a couple of times and changed the oil a few times. Luckily he never checked the odometer, so I just told him i did it and then got it fully tuned.

I dont think anyone would suggest doing burnouts to run a motor in mate...giving it some stick through the hills, no problem, but static burnouts?

Rolls, audi and lambo have a "mega factory's" ep dedicated to each one. i believe they cover running the engines for the first time.

Please tell me that's on normal tv not foxtel?!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...