Jump to content
SAU Community

Jdm R35 Key Replacement

magic1

By magic1,
in R35 GTR

 Share

Recommended Posts

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

do you have the little tag with the number on it? you need that to re-order keys. it's a little alluminium tag that comes with the 2 keys. was your car new when you bought it in japan? it should have come with 2 keys and that little alloy tag. without that tag it's going to be a head fk getting a new key for it.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

well if you have the tag with the number on it (nissan JP need it to encode the key correctly) then just buy one from nissan japan using the cars real chassis number. they shouldn't know whether or not the car left japan. and I would be taking all this up with whoever sold/exported the car for you. all 3 R35s I imported had 2 keys and the little tag/plaque for key re-order in case some got lost.

Marlin Grand Master

Marlin

Posted
Posted

Am I correct in saying you need the r35 consult to code the key to the particular vehicle? ie All the keys are the same ex-factory and are individualised to the particular car via Consult. Nissan dealers won't help you but I do believe there is a Consult or two floating around Oz now in the hands of aftermarket....

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

not 100% sure, but the guys in japan told me you order the key, and then give the number that is on that plaque to nissan, that number is what they need to code it to your car. so you don't need the physical car to do it, just that code.

magic1 Community Regular

magic1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Am I correct in saying you need the r35 consult to code the key to the particular vehicle? ie All the keys are the same ex-factory and are individualised to the particular car via Consult. Nissan dealers won't help you but I do believe there is a Consult or two floating around Oz now in the hands of aftermarket....

Beer Baron thank you for your help, do you have a nissan dealer in japan that can help.

From what i know the car need to have the consult equipment hooked up to the car to tell it to look for a new key.

Does anone in perth have a consult machine or will the cobb tuning port be able to do this?

tris

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

34s are completely different. R35s have a siemens prox key. no physical key. most 34 GTRs you just get a key cut same as any other car. the only difference is some have the immobiliser chip in the key (look for a red bit on the shoulder of the key) which links up with a reader in the ignition barrel area. it's a basic proximity based immobiliser. in that case you need the new immobiliser chip too. some also had dealer option alarms, but the keys are just normal keys.

anyway back to R35s and the guy with the problem, seriously the best guy to talk to is the guy that sold you the car. either the aussie agent, or the japanese exporter, or even the japanese dealer if you bought it new. that is your best hope of sorting it out. and no an access port most likely wont be able to sync up a new key. it only does some basic stuff like error code resets etc. not the advanced things that consult does. and no I don't know anyone in perth with one.

just to reiterate, seriously, speak to the bloke that sold you/exported to you the car.

magic1 Community Regular

magic1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Beer Baron,

thank you very much.

You right, the key needs a consult port but also a key code that is supplied by nissan to unlock the 'looking for key function of the car)

also if a nissan dealer is found to have worked on an import they will lose their rights to sell and service the gtr.

so we are stuffed at this point.

ta

ylwgtr2 Grand Master

ylwgtr2

Posted
Posted

the small tag is an international lock smith code.....You can read those numbers/letter to a lock smith over the phone and he can cut it and roll up and un lock the car........i have a key cloner here id like to shove an R35 key in it and see what it says....ive managed to clone the R34 GTR siemens keys....next step from that is to have a sniff around inside the immobiliser box......im sure something can be done (as long as its not a rolling code) as we have managed to flash and rewrite the all the japanese brand motorcycle ecu's for lost keys

gazza750 Veteran

gazza750

Posted
Posted
Beer Baron thank you for your help, do you have a nissan dealer in japan that can help.

From what i know the car need to have the consult equipment hooked up to the car to tell it to look for a new key.

Does anone in perth have a consult machine or will the cobb tuning port be able to do this?

tris

Try Steve Jones @ Fabcar in Vic Park ,he has a jdm r35(won targa west twice in it )he might be able to help you out

gazza750 Veteran

gazza750

Posted
Posted (edited)
^^^Think you will find him at LF Performance now but I would try Ant @ XSpeed as I beleive he does all the tuning for the car(s).

damn i thought he and his family owned fabcar

i personally wouldnt go near xspeed after probs i had there a few years ago with my 32 r

Edited by gazza750
magic1 Community Regular

magic1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Try Steve Jones @ Fabcar in Vic Park ,he has a jdm r35(won targa west twice in it )he might be able to help you out

i will not be speaking to steve, he has had 20 months to supply the second key

^^^Think you will find him at LF Performance now but I would try Ant @ XSpeed as I beleive he does all the tuning for the car(s).

hanson has the same issue with his 35 skyline

damn i thought he and his family owned fabcar

i personally wouldnt go near xspeed after probs i had there a few years ago with my 32 r

I would not go near them either, i hear you.

Sammy-qld Enthusiast

Sammy-qld

Posted
Posted

My JDM came with 2 keys and just checked it had the little silver tag with the code number on it too. The people who you got the car off would of recieved 2 keys, if they don't have it, someone must of lost it or thrown it away. Try that first, the 2nd key for me had the tag on it's keyring.

Don't know anything about keys for these things though, if you need a consult three to plug it into (aftermarket in oz) and you can't find one let me know I know of a place in QLD that have one, that might be willing to help.

Message me if you need that contact. I check the boards once a week though lately.

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

tristan,

i spoke to brad about it last night... he said they are the same as the maxima keys, asked if he could do it and he said yes using consult 3 but he talked to someone about doing it last week and there is no way in hell they are allowed to do it!

thats coming from a nissan dealer that isn't even a GTR dealer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...