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I bought these RE30s from Access Auto last year for my Race R33 GTR.

They are 18x9.5 +15 and are very light but also very strong.

( I had a set of 18x9.5 +12 Nismo LM1 GT4s on my street GTR but thought these suited

the race car better)

I would love to put slicks on these & use them on my R35 as well but from what you are

saying they will stick way out on the front.

Years ago I ordered a set of 18" CE28Ns for my XR6 Turbo ute. The rears are 9.5" +22

so I could get some more rubber under the back but the fronts had to be 8.5" +40.

So cant use these for the GTR either!!!

I think what you doing is the only way - your standard 20s for the street & a dedicated

set of 18"s with slicks for the track. Just a shame for me they cant be interchangeable

with the R33 GTR. Oh well, I will just keep trashing my 20" Bridgestones for now.......

Good luck with yours - keep us posted.

Hey calm down pizza boy!

Keep up the good work Duncan. I am watching with interest.

Nice letter in motor mag.

Next years tuner battle will be very interesting.

pizza boy? oh u mean my avatar? lol

i just find it hilarious people are putting wheels on their $150k supercars that are the same quality as the wheels u can go into bob jane and buy for ur commie.

pizza boy? oh u mean my avatar? lol

i just find it hilarious people are putting wheels on their $150k supercars that are the same quality as the wheels u can go into bob jane and buy for ur commie.

Actually, Bob Jane (and Jax) do sell Enkie's - GTC01's - wheels that a lot of people are using on R35's (some 18's, some 20's). Lots of guys in the USA use them too. You can buy them from tirerack. FWIW I dont find it hilarious at all. Maybe you are just thinking too hard about it. What you need to understand is there are only three 18" rims known to fit over the R35 brakes. This really isnt about money, moreso availability of wheels in the right size and offset.

yeh but who puts enkei's on their commies? lol im talking about the rodney jane, speedy wheels, lenso etc etc

the rotas fit because they are carbon copies of TE37 which were designed specifically to clear large calipers by Rays. you could have bought TE37's which have been used across the world on GTR's, but instead u chose to buy the cheap generic copies made by a bulk manufacturer in taiwan or china.

yeh but who puts enkei's on their commies? lol im talking about the rodney jane, speedy wheels, lenso etc etc

the rotas fit because they are carbon copies of TE37 which were designed specifically to clear large calipers by Rays. you could have bought TE37's which have been used across the world on GTR's, but instead u chose to buy the cheap generic copies made by a bulk manufacturer in taiwan or china.

ok nisskid, you've made your point. It's your opinion and that's fine. Here's mine: You have nothing actually useful to contribute here. Your idea on the whys, wherefors and motivations is just wrong and serves absoluetly no point whatsoever except to make constant childish points designed to insight stupid circular arguments. You might think the wheels are shithouse, that's fine. Some don't necessarily agree. Anyway you've made your caustic points, now piss off.

everybody was kung fu fighting.... ding a ning ning ning.

Anyway..... how easy is it to get these 2nd hand slicks & why are they

getting rid of them. I thought it was more about heat cycles rather than

tread wear. If you have noticed a big improvement using them they must

still have good life in them!

What pressure do you run them at?

Once you get get used to them & they are stuffed will you try a new set

& see if your times drop even more?

Sorry to throw more coper coins at the discussion. But if your car was a CA18DET S13 i would not be so stressed about the quality of thw wheels, but with a heavy, powerful and grippy R35 i think there is cause for concern. Not to say you wll have a problem, but fwiw i would start to hunt down an equiv diam & Offset jap wheel by Rays, Advan, Weds, BBS etc. In the meantime snce you are in Sydney and these are your track rims it may not be a bad idea to after every few track days send a random rim down to an NDT place and see if there are any stress fractures forming.

At a minimum see if ROTA can tell you what the weight rating of the wheel is???? I suppose i just cringe as when i did CAMS scrutineering wheels shearing at race meetings did happen, and cars failing scrutineering because of visible signs of fatigue meant cars got parked and not allowed to race in fear of the wheels literally falling off :D

Seeing as though the wheels cost stuff all, some destructive testing will tell you everything you need to know. If the chinese have figured out the casting process and metallurgy (after all these years you'd hope so) there's a good change they're getting it close to right.

just stay off the ripple strips!

anyway if they are cast they will most likely bend before they break... if its was a forged wheel then you'd have more of a problem as you might not get a warning before they let go

I've bent a Gmax cast rim on a ripple strip before... just feels like you've flat spotted a tyre, shaking through the steering wheel etc

ok nisskid, you've made your point. It's your opinion and that's fine. Here's mine: You have nothing actually useful to contribute here. Your idea on the whys, wherefors and motivations is just wrong and serves absoluetly no point whatsoever except to make constant childish points designed to insight stupid circular arguments. You might think the wheels are shithouse, that's fine. Some don't necessarily agree. Anyway you've made your caustic points, now piss off.

actually i've contributed quite a lot here, if you choose to ignore it then that's fine, but i would hate to see a thread go by where the idea of putting rotas on a GTR without severe criticism, then for other GTR owners to read this and actually be under the delusion that this is a good idea.

Seeing as though the wheels cost stuff all, some destructive testing will tell you everything you need to know. If the chinese have figured out the casting process and metallurgy (after all these years you'd hope so) there's a good change they're getting it close to right.

firstly, personally i wouldnt like me and my 150k car to be a crash test dummy for some "destructive" testing. 2ndly you think there might be a reason why rays, BBS etc etc spend millions on R&D and advanced manufacturing processes if the chinese gear made with the most basic and cost effective processes do the same job? really?

Sorry to throw more coper coins at the discussion. But if your car was a CA18DET S13 i would not be so stressed about the quality of thw wheels, but with a heavy, powerful and grippy R35 i think there is cause for concern. Not to say you wll have a problem, but fwiw i would start to hunt down an equiv diam & Offset jap wheel by Rays, Advan, Weds, BBS etc. In the meantime snce you are in Sydney and these are your track rims it may not be a bad idea to after every few track days send a random rim down to an NDT place and see if there are any stress fractures forming.

At a minimum see if ROTA can tell you what the weight rating of the wheel is???? I suppose i just cringe as when i did CAMS scrutineering wheels shearing at race meetings did happen, and cars failing scrutineering because of visible signs of fatigue meant cars got parked and not allowed to race in fear of the wheels literally falling off ;)

exactly, we can debate all day about whether putting shitty wheels on a S13 or R32 is wrong, but you are talking no where near the forces a R35 GTR is subjecting their wheels too. and worst comes to worst and ur S13 fails and puts u off the circuit, it's hardly as big of an issue.

everybody was kung fu fighting.... ding a ning ning ning.

Anyway..... how easy is it to get these 2nd hand slicks & why are they

getting rid of them. I thought it was more about heat cycles rather than

tread wear. If you have noticed a big improvement using them they must

still have good life in them!

What pressure do you run them at?

Once you get get used to them & they are stuffed will you try a new set

& see if your times drop even more?

Yes one of the reasons for the cheaper 2nd hand slicks (apart from the obvious $$) it to just see if the setup is doable and yields results. I've had a few issues which I am trying to sort out, so fitting longer studs tonight for example, and there are some wheel clearance issues due to offset woes which I will elaborate on soon. When I get it sorted I may buy new slicks ($720+ ea though!) and possibly some other wheels with more appropriate offset. Will keep you guys posted. Also, I've been told that dunlop slicks warm up quicker than the michelins... (anyone have direct experience?) so they may be more suited to sprints than the michelins. Given the amount of tyres I go through I might stick with the 2nd hand michelins IF I can get some more that is... ;)

Edit: Regarding pressures, i've been targeting 32 or 33psi hot - however i dont have any experience with slicks, so this may be wrong. Some have told me less, some have told me more... i am thinking around 32psi and see how it goes.

Edited by LSX-438
firstly, personally i wouldnt like me and my 150k car to be a crash test dummy for some "destructive" testing. 2ndly you think there might be a reason why rays, BBS etc etc spend millions on R&D and advanced manufacturing processes if the chinese gear made with the most basic and cost effective processes do the same job? really?

I was making a suggestion to the OP which you clearly misunderstood in your haste to rubbish anything relating to wheels not marketed by Rays/BBS etc. I don't recall making any comments for/against the wheels in question so your criticisms are wasted.

I was making a suggestion to the OP which you clearly misunderstood in your haste to rubbish anything relating to wheels not marketed by Rays/BBS etc. I don't recall making any comments for/against the wheels in question so your criticisms are wasted.

you talked about the chinese getting the process casting right, i made the comment that it's not that simple. rays and BBS are a tiny % of the wheels out there manufacturered with years of R&D and more sophisticated, expensive processes.

Regardless of ROTA's poor reputation of wheel failures, ROTA are a show wheel, they aren't designed for performance, they are a mass produced wheel for people who want something that looks nice, no different to ur koya, lenso etc. and there is a market for them, people who want something to look nice who dont want to spend much, and dont need the wheel to perform. not for supercars that see forces and conditions much greater than any street car will.

Actually, Bob Jane (and Jax) do sell Enkie's - GTC01's - wheels that a lot of people are using on R35's (some 18's, some 20's).

Good wheel; very robust.

Ha ha I've got a set of 17" GTC01's on my 33. LOL that some people baulk at the cost of them for an R35! :P

If the offset is not ideal for a 35 is there other options like pressing in a 'spacer' insert into the wheel? Nisskid may know more?

Edited by Tony de Wonderful

just leave them nisskid... remember this is SAU.

if your into putting $1300 wheels with cheap nasty rubber on your $160k-$180k supercar then thats great, take it to the track and give them hell so in a few months time we'll be laughing at your ROTA WARNING thread because you didnt listen and the wheels collapsed under the weight of your car, you'll whinge about the way your new R35 GTR slid on its rails, ripped off that nice front bar, sideskirts, completly destroyed those sexy uber expensive brakes, smashed up that $40k transmission and the thud of 2tonnes of japanese supercar hitting the track sent ripples all the way accross your chassis because you were to ignorant to listen to people advice when it comes to things like SAFETY

and if that dosnt get into your head, if that does happen (which i have no real doubts) then you will VOID YOUR INSURANCE as i'm sure your insurance provider would be the first to point out you were not using the OEM wheels or suitable wheels for the car and it was the wheel that shattered/collapsed/ buckled which caused the accident.

why do you even own an r35GTR if you cant even afford good wheels and tyres.

i'd feel much safer on my old 17x9+22 super advan racing then those nasty china rims, may of well put 20" vaults on it...

i can feel a ban coming on for this post but if that isnt enough to get the facts in your head you deserve to have your car written off when the wheels FAIL... because with that much wait and force, they WILL fail.

Edited by direct
Good wheel; very robust.

Ha ha I've got a set of 17" GTC01's on my 33. LOL that some people baulk at the cost of them for an R35! :P

If the offset is not ideal for a 35 is there other options like pressing in a 'spacer' insert into the wheel? Nisskid may know more?

yeh i think it's only a matter of a few mm, and the TE37 has better sizes anyway than the ROTA grid. that's the thing, it's not a matter of not having the right sizes available, it's just him being too cheap to buy what is needed.

Good wheel; very robust.

Ha ha I've got a set of 17" GTC01's on my 33. LOL that some people baulk at the cost of them for an R35! :P

If the offset is not ideal for a 35 is there other options like pressing in a 'spacer' insert into the wheel? Nisskid may know more?

The 18x10's (GTC01's) that i have been running have a 22mm offset all round. So not ideal at all. Depending on the tyres they stick out from the front guards, which is against CAMS rules for motorsport events. I think even the TE37's stick out somewhat. I guess it's just a question of offsets etc. Spacers will not solve the problem (the wheels need to come in). I've done other mods to try and bring the top of the control arm in, but it's just not enough :( Even a rota with 30mm offset isnt completely ideal.

Edited by LSX-438
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