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They are a 6mm intake manifold spacer designed to reduce heat transfer between engine intake ports and the intake manifold. Hence, reducing intake air temperature.. Wondering if anyone has used them or tested them. AFTER OPINIONS TOO. They can be found at ebay,, not sure where else they stock them

rte-link-button.pngRB25_001_mod_small_mace.jpginsulatediagramGIF.gif

Edited by Dorifta
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290537-manifold-insulators/
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Manifold insulating gaskets are popular with the honda tuning scene in the US for years. One of the big US honda aftermarket companies Hondata produce them for JDM and USDM honda engines... maybe rb's too??

Good to see an Aussie company having a go!

I was at status tuning a couple of weeks ago and they these on there shelf, were about $80 from memory.

im also looking into removing the water lines from the inlet manifold, has any one done this, apparently good for a 30 degree reduction in intake temps??

removing intake manifold heat well help develop power, cooler air is always denser & better for making power.. hence adding the humble intercooler.

However, in the RB25 manifold, water flows into and out of the manifold in a few spots, plus the water outlet for the radiator.

to make this work, you would either have to delete these (I cant see that being good!) or, somehow coat these water jackets to prevent the heat soak..

I did a thread some time back it the tutorial section for the throttle body coolant deletion, but removing the restof the water from the manifold could be both painful and silly. The nissan factory went to a lot of trouble to put these water ports into the manifold, I would guess that they are there to help coolant flow and carry bubbles to a common high point (for system bleeding). Without this function.. probable cooked engine!

If you can coat the water ports with something that reduces the heat transfer, then you will gain something with this product, other than that, I cant see it doing much for you. But i could be wrong.

Gizzmo make those thermal gaskets, i was going to get one but then ended up getting a full nissan OEM gasket kit so didn't bother.

http://www.gizzmoelectronics.com/Product_GasketNissan.html

I'm sure they do what they say. Whether there is any noticable gains i have no idea.

Gizzmo make those thermal gaskets, i was going to get one but then ended up getting a full nissan OEM gasket kit so didn't bother.

http://www.gizzmoelectronics.com/Product_GasketNissan.html

I'm sure they do what they say. Whether there is any noticable gains i have no idea.

Could only find it listed in there US online store, with postage works out to be about $140

A friend of mine recently did a before after test on his B18c civic with the Hondata version. I had one in my old ITR too, but never bothered to test anything.

He has the Hondata S300 ECU that has all the bells and whistles blah blah, so used the real time datalogging to test.

In his tests there was a 7'C drop in intake temperature at idle, and a 4'C drop at cruising speeds.

The tests were performed back to back on the same day, as close as possible exact same conditions.

He is still yet to test it at the drag strip where he claimed intake temps were reaching 60'C in the staging lane on a hot summers day.

Obviously its a different story with different cars. But at least you can see it works a bit.

EDIT: I did just re-read his blog about it, and at the same time the TB coolant was bypassed, and so was the cold idle coolant line.

So there was more than likely a significant temperature drop from just that. Each to their own... i feel like an RB would be 100 times more difficult to do than a B series Honda... worth the effort?

Edited by gotRICE?

Here ya go. I had these people make me a custom 30 mil rb25 spacer to lengthen the intake runners on my greddy plenum. Havnt fitted it as yet but will be soon.

They claim some good things with regards to reducung heat in the plenum.

http://www.maceengineering.com.au/_MaceProducts.htm

With the water feed through the lower section of the manifold it's debatable it you'd achieve anything unless you had an RB26 manifold and used those insulators between the inner manifold section and the throttle bodies .

Most people I know reckon warm air at low engine speeds is good for vaporising fuel and at higher engine speeds the air is moving too fast to absorb any significant heat .

Jury still out cheers A .

Could only find it listed in there US online store, with postage works out to be about $140

We had them on the Autobarn system and off of memory it wasn't too much more than $100. Call up an Autobarn and see what they say.

Edited by PM-R33
A friend of mine recently did a before after test on his B18c civic with the Hondata version. I had one in my old ITR too, but never bothered to test anything.

He has the Hondata S300 ECU that has all the bells and whistles blah blah, so used the real time datalogging to test.

In his tests there was a 7'C drop in intake temperature at idle, and a 4'C drop at cruising speeds.

The tests were performed back to back on the same day, as close as possible exact same conditions.

He is still yet to test it at the drag strip where he claimed intake temps were reaching 60'C in the staging lane on a hot summers day.

Obviously its a different story with different cars. But at least you can see it works a bit.

EDIT: I did just re-read his blog about it, and at the same time the TB coolant was bypassed, and so was the cold idle coolant line.

So there was more than likely a significant temperature drop from just that. Each to their own... i feel like an RB would be 100 times more difficult to do than a B series Honda... worth the effort?

that sounds about right. the temp drop will be bigger at lower revs because of the fact that at higher rpm the air is travelling quicker so is less affected by the temp of the inlet because it spends less time in there

the humble L18b had something similar on the 180b sss su manifolds to avoid heat soak into the inlet manifold.

IMO if they were that great an idea for everyday use, nissan would have put them on in the first place - like those spinny vortex things that go in the inlet manifolds you can also buy from ebay - if they were a great idea then why dont they have these things on cars already?

looks like too much work to install for very little gains, and as they deteriorate you will end up with an assortment if airleaks and other problems.

+1 for getting a carton of beer

4 degrees is hardly worth the effort.

This isn't race car level of performance where 2 degree's and 10hp makes a difference.

Street car viability - nil. Spend it on a case of beer :P

what about if the factory gasket is the pretty much the same price, which from the prices i have gotten it is (about $80 which is what i have found the same thing but different brand for over here)

Well that is not what's being asked here...

Its a performance question, the answer to which is negligible at best.

There is no way you are going to see 30 degree reduction like you said earlier.

I'd be fairly surprised if Nissan - Trade price, the gasket was $80

Well that is not what's being asked here...

Its a performance question, the answer to which is negligible at best.

There is no way you are going to see 30 degree reduction like you said earlier.

I'd be fairly surprised if Nissan - Trade price, the gasket was $80

The one talked about here or the factory gasket? price quoted from kudos on the factory gasket is $85.80 the one talked about here was $8x from status tuning (different brand tho).

Also the 30 degrees mentioned earlier by me was not for the gasket, it was in relation to removing the water line from the tb, there is a thread on it in diy, its near the top.

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