Jump to content
SAU Community

Guard Rolling/flaring


Oddy man
 Share

Recommended Posts

OK I won't bother with the story, but seems I have some wheels that are much to wide to be allowed (19x10).

Now these are only on the rear of the S1, and at the moment (we did a test fit) it rubs nastily on the strut and spring.

I'm not much good with suspension so I need some help here.

I have a set of tein coilovers to go on, but after I do that, what am I going to need to do to make these wheels fit?

Mates and I are seeming to think wheel spacer and then guard rolling/flaring. So then I must ask - is this right? Where do I go about acquiring spacers and who/how do I pump the guards so the wheels don't jut out steamroller style?

Halp!

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well...assuming you are going to keep those rims.

you need to move the wheel out fromthe hub, so you need spacers. the distance you need to move it depends how bad it rubs on the strut.

once you have moved it out far enough to clear the strut you may have rubbing issues on the guard, if so you will need to roll or flare the guard. or if you are happy to compromise you could run a smaller tyre on the rim and run a too much camber so that it tucks inside the guard on bump - but of course this would adversely affect handling and tyre wear

10" rims can fit on the back of a 33 gtst if they have the correct offset, so it's not impossible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

let me know the offset of the wheels and i'll tell you what you exactly what you'll need to do to make them fit :D

should be listed on the back of the wheel somewhere - either on a manufacturers sticker or cast into the back of the spokes etc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok on inspection of the inside of the rim I cant find anything that hints on offset, and it turns out they're 19x9.5

They are second hand so there's no sticker, but theres little random numbers all over the place, still nothing that I could reliably call an offset - is there a way I can measure it?

The tyres (need new ones) are 275s, could anything be gained by putting 265 or 255s on them?

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you'll struggle with the tyre widths. 9.5's are a tight fit on the rear of (auto) stageas and you need about a +15 offset for them to not scrub the strut but then they'll be poking a little bit

because they are 19's you'll probably want to look at a 245/35 for them to help tuck them under your guards once you space them out to clear the strut (i want to assume they are in the mid 30's offset)

you can measure the offset by looking at this diagram

WheelOffset.jpg

don't forget offset is measured in mm and rim width in inches

what numbers are on the back of the wheels?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

as an indication, here's my car with 18x9.5+15 and 235/40's fitted

at stock height

100_0526.jpg

running very low, no camber adjustment besides the natural IRS gain (alot of neg camber)

100_0572.jpg

Edited by M I K E
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is 24 and 45 stamped lazily inside the spokes.

The cast there is a 3|5: ┴3 and on the inner hub bit on the inside there is 30 and 35 cast.

They're most recently off a GTS4 so Im thinking mid 30s offset

Mike are they allowed to poke out like that? I thought it was illegal?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

technically my rubber is covered BUT the tyres are (what would be considered) too narrow for the rim (although 100% safe) and i am out of track so would be considered illegal unfortunately

if you want something legal, but a nice fit, get some 18x9+30's. same specs as 34 gtr wheels (if there is the option get 9+15 front to make them fill the guards all round :D )

at the end of the day, to make the 9.5's fit you will require some stretch, some poke or a combination of both

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any tips on where to get spacers?

I'm currently having a similar issue with some slight scrubbing at the rear under heavy load.

in this thread it explains that you should only use flanged spacers;

http://www.twincam.info/index.php?showtopi...mp;#entry375195

I think I'm gonna go with these:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Buddyclub-Wheel-Spa...id=p3286.c0.m14

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You need spacers that have the right sized bore that are flanged or have locator rings or are hubcentric - different words for the same thing - to make sure they are centred on the hub and not just located by the wheel nuts. As well in NZ they need low volume certification - don't know the legal position in Australia. here are some examples:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-246008743.htm

or

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-246616324.htm

or

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-245710903.htm

note that 5 x 114.3 come in different bore sizes so make sure you get the right one.

I have a set of 25mm spacers on the front to make it the same track as the rear. If you are buying brand new mags you may be able to acheive this by having different offsets front and rear.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

same problem with mine

20x8's lowered around 2.5"

245 tyres on.

i had major rear scrubbing issues after putting 20mm bolt on spacers

soloution was to roll the guards

im a tightass and wanted it fixed so i just got a hammer and a metal round pipe..

thank god for the plastic arx guards

Link to comment
Share on other sites

oddy man do you realise that by changing your track width you will have to get it engineered because any mod that changes the track with is illegal and must be inspected and certifyed by an engineer .

your best bet mate would be to sell them rims and go and get the corect ones that fit right without using spacers , from my experience spacers CAN cause the wheel nuts to come loose and fall off , and yes i have seen it on a few occasions happen to diffrent cars too . personaly i think rims look out of place when they pertrude out of the gaurd and also it would be a night mare trying not to scuff them on gutters .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I see 3 options

1. sell rims and find ones that fit

2. Fit spacers on the rear to clear guards, fit 235's or maybe 245 tyres and have to roll the guards a fair bit

3. You can change the rear cradle, use a non hicas one from a gts4, s14 or s15. This will reduce the rear track by approx 40-50mm. This will probably stop the tyres rubbing on the guards, but you will need some spacers to clear the struts. Use the bare crdel only and reuse all your susp arms and diff

I am currently going down this path, running 19x9.5's +12 and probably 235/30/19 tyres as they are the closet thing to the standard rolling diameter.

Cradle cost anywhere from $50-200

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Go to SP mufflers and get the muffler of size you want and make a nice mid muffler. It's about that simple! I have 2x 3.5 Magnaflow straight through Mufflers and while it's pretty loud with the Varex open, it's quiet enough with the Varex closed. You can also buy off the shelf Magnaflow straight through mufflers as well. You also have a turbo to quiet the car down too. Don't overthink it. Buy my extra Magnaflow muffler sitting on a shelf doing nothing (buy it new, ignore this part)
    • Centre-offset muffler under the floor, same as stock. Just....3.5". The change from straight pipe there to centre-offset will mean that you need to remake some of the pipe (add a bend or two).
    • Hey guys. So my R34 GTT has a custom 3.5” exhaust (done by previous owner) with a high flowing cat, and then just a Varex cannon muffler on the back. The car does drone alot and is really loud even on highway driving just cruising, as you can imagine due to the Varex muffler basically being a straight through with the valve open. As much as i love a loud RB, it can be a bit much with no other muffling in line and just driving casually. I wanted to lower the volume output on the exhaust a bit, as well as remove the drone (probably a way to do both at once), and was going to do it all myself as I am a fabricator and have done exhaust work in the past, so the fab work isnt my issue, im just not sure on the right product or type of product to use to get the job done, and i doubt an exhaust shop would be wanting to help me as they wont be making any money from helping me, unless they supplied the product? Anyway any help or guidance in best way to approach this would be awesome   Thanks in advance
    • Meh, whilst the Honda is a "really" good car and has potential if you want to drop coin on, it was uninspiring for me to look at, but, it did serve its purpose and is now in the boys hands, his happy, his girl is happy, as she wasn't to keen on the noisy old Patrol, and most importantly, the Minister for War and Finances is extremely happy that her "little baby boy" (6'2 nugget who is currently training to be a copper, which will make 3 coppers in the immediate "circle of trust") has a well sorted reliable car that doesn't guzzle diesel Me, I'm more than happy with the NC MX5 that I replaced it with, it's a fun little car that I like looking at, like driving, and yes..... I do like the fact that the maintenance and modifications that I have done/will do are plentiful and relatively cheap, well........ while staying naturally aspirated slow that is, and that's all I really need for a fun little daily, I can rev the 5hit out of it rowing through the gears and never really break the speed limit  In saying that wicked word, "modifications", I've already ordered something for some noise and an additional "3 ish" horse powers, or whatever it gives, in the form of a header, and, a new set of "cheapo" BC coilovers that are already sitting in the shed waiting to get put in, I had the same BC's in my old NB and found they were fine for the street, hwy, and the occasional track days I did in it, they have 6kg front and 4kg rear springs which is about 10% stiffer than the stock springs which I found worked well for their price  I've also already been in touch with MX5 Mania in Dural, so once the header is on it will get a ECUTek RaceROM tune there (I cannot rev match for 5hit, and I loved the RaceROM rev match and FFS in my old 86 "RIP") In other, maintenance news, I put some new sparkler plugs in it, and have a new set of DBA Street series pads to put in over the next day or so, I'm running the DBA street series in the SS and Honda and really like them, they work great and are not dusty at all I've also booked in a few days leave over this weekend to give me 4 days weekend do some paint correction and give the leather seats some conditioning and interior some Bissell and steam cleaning OCD lovin', the carpet and interior looks clean, but from my experience with the Bissell IRT carpet, and the steam cleaner IRT trim, looks can be deceiving I've also found that finding a detachable hard top is proving problematic, the main reason why I didn't like the NC initially was the power retractable hard top that I seen them with gave the roof line a weird look, the detachable roof though looks good, and is a same shape as a NA/NB hard top, similar, but unfortunately not the same as it has different fixture point on the front, so fitting a easy to get NA/NB detachable hard top is no bueno New Old cars are fun, cleaning, hunting and playing around brings much joy How are your beasties going? Do you still have the Skyline with the LS???, or Barra??? that you were playing with
×
×
  • Create New...