Jump to content
SAU Community

I'M BACK!!! =) My Topics is...WRX Vs R34 GTT


Recommended Posts

G'day G'day people...This is the first message I've posted on the forum in AGES...anyways here's what I wanna ask...who's faster on a straight drag: WRX vs R34 GTT? My R34 is pretty much stock with a intercooler...i've drag a mate's wrx (current model) which is stock as well and showed him who's daddy. But last night, my galfriend's friend (some stupid kid) drives a wrx too (previous model; looks pretty much stock except of a loud exhaust) wants to drag me and was bragging to my friend that he would whoop my arse...which i heard and laugh cause i dont think a stock rex can. Opinions please...thats if you understood what i just wrote...haha =)

ANDY

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29135-im-back-my-topics-iswrx-vs-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

Show him who's daddy I say... um the WRX should be able to out maneuvre you, but in a straight line I think you'd have the upper had with a more torquey engine with a better lower end acceleration.

Dus he have subwoofa!s?

You are talking about on a drag strip right?

:rofl:

WRX ~ Only seriously modded sti's have been quicker than mine.

An 02 sti ran a 13.6 at heathcote, my best was 13.8, if I had the same mods as him it would be a lot closer...

just stir him up and tell him to launch at 7000rpm, then u will win easily as he will be sitting there after his 7000rpm launch with a broken gearbox.

I've raced plenty of rexes with fmic, safc and exhaust and owned them after switching into second gear.

When my car was stock I use to have runs with a lot of WRXs. Win some, lose some....... it all depends on whos got more cash hehehe (usually them hahaha). But from experience, from stop start they usually have the upper hand but u just have to play catch up. Usually on rolling start, the tide would turn and he/she would have to play follow the leader. Also I love the smell of their clutch when they have a few hard launches.

Guest RedLineGTR

you should be fine andy...if your worried go buy a cheap bleed valve or something for like $60 from autobarn, crank up the boost as see him in the back of your mirror. i;ve also got to come down to the private track of your mates, have a couple of runs. :rofl:

mmm...ok...advice taken...i just wont drag him...just piss him off that my car looks nicer than his...haha

No skylines should be afraid of WRX even if you know you're gona loose, you still give it to them.

No sissy backing out excuse ( sorry to say this ).

you should be fine andy...if your worried go buy a cheap bleed valve or something for like $60 from autobarn, crank up the boost as see him in the back of your mirror. i;ve also got to come down to the private track of your mates, have a couple of runs. :rofl:

i've seen this bleed valve thing come up a few times, what exactly do they do? sounds like a pretty cheap mod...

cheers.

i've seen this bleed valve thing come up a few times, what exactly do they do? sounds like a pretty cheap mod...

cheers.

a bleed valve is essentially a wastegate. it bleeds off pressure before the wastegate and in doing so tricking the wastegate to remain shut and produce more boost.

on the topic of wrx vs gtt....i currently own a gtt and my previous car was a wrx...i love them both, and they are about as quick as one another at the moment....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...